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Thread: 1981 L200 'ClubSport'

  1. #101

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    The snorkel might be the way to go if you're not against the ideal of blowing a couple of big holes in your truck. Still need an air box for the panel filter though and my bet is it's getting pretty cozy in there space wise.
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  2. #102

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    p.s. you've had a run of bad luck of recent with the flat tyre and now bending the front bar. Luck has to improve sometime soon!
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  3. #103

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    Was a new tyre too. Need to get it patched today.
    Start a new job next week so the good luck is I can throw some pocket money at this to make some problems go away

  4. #104

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    So, my bent bumper cap



    Ordered a new old stock Taiwanese repro one. A local company seems to be the only place to get them from, but i assume theres a warehouse full of parts in Taiwan.




    even though the metal is zinc passivated, i gave everything a coat of black zinc, along with the inside of the bumper bar, before installation
    I have no idea what that threaded rod part is for?


    nice fit, matches my other side too
    had bent the end of the bumper a bit more than i thought, but it flattened back out with a BFH. once i get a correct bolt for the bottom hole i will give it a few small taps and it will be perfect.



    and a wipe with paint thinner takes off the shed paint

    nones the wiser

  5. #105

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    is that small threaded part on the inside next to the welded on nut for the bottom bolt for anything?

  6. #106



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    what about the link for the bumper cap?
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  7. #107

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  8. #108

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  9. #109

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    Horrible mess


    see where the filter has slipped and the line has been rubbed by the throttle

    so I bought some stuff


    I ended up doing double flares.
    also alloy fuel line is legal here incase anyone asks


    bent up and flared



    and installed

    let the fuel pump prime for a while, and then let the engine run, gave it some revs, and no issues with leaks, so I'm confident its all ok. lines don't move about at all, but I do have some decent line clamps to mount them to the fire wall with on their way.


    Need to relocate the fuel filter to the chassis rail near the fuel pump. old one I don't think has ever been changed, so might open it up and check

    need to do something about the rest of the loom etc some time, but looks a lot better, its bothered me every time I open the bonnet

  10. #110

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    Nice work. Would've been 'entertaining' if the high pressure hose wore through. We aren't allowed to use braided fuel lines in Oz due to ADR not using an internationally recognised method of testing (but new cars off the showroom floor can have braided everything apparently...) The alloy lines look more finished anyway IMO.
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  11. #111

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    Yeah imo full soft lines is a lazy way out. The law here is that hard lines "should" be used "where possible" hard lines can also go a little closer to exhausts etc i believe. But its more or less anything goes. Tidy lines says alot about a build

  12. #112

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    p.s. you've had a run of bad luck of recent with the flat tyre and now bending the front bar. Luck has to improve sometime soon!
    And it happens in 3s. Front left wheel bearing just collapsed with a pop.
    Strange. It had no noise apart from 15 seconds of slight squeel before it went

  13. #113



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    that sucks - seized then exploded.
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  14. #114

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    Yeah what a pain. Went 2km from work on my way back from lunch. Luckily i get free tows and there was a bearing kit on the shelf at the parts store. Out of town for the weekend, but might get time to do it on sunday afternoon if its not a disaster

  15. #115

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    I think you got very lucky. If you were travelling at speed or were way out of town this could've been disastrous.
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  16. #116

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    Luck loves a fool mate

  17. #117

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    so into the meat of it

    how to change a wheel bearing on your truck

    jack up, put on jack stands, remove wheel

    remove calliper, 2 calliper bolts and one on the dust shield (2 17mms and a 10mm). Support calliper out of the way so its not hanging off the rubber line


    Remove grease cap, pull out split pin, undo nut (30mm, it wont be tight) and remove keyed washer/spacer



    Sparkle sparkle, lots of metal and no grease


    Pull off the hub and rotor assembly




    Clean up the spindle

    mine has a few light marks, normally you can just clean these off of they are light. This one is not too bad, at least the gearing races came off with the hub and its not turned blue from heat or anything

    Knock out the bearing races from the hub. Each race has 3 notches in the housing where you can place a punch to knock them out



    My outer bearing had failed. The race split in half when I knocked it out, the bearings themselves have a blue tinge on the ends so they had gotten hot, and there was very little grease in the hub



    Knock or press the new races in

    in this case I used the old races to get them started, then swapped to a punch to seat them down

    Here is where I ran into a problem. The outer race was a loose fit. Same part number on the new and old. Looking at the bearings they didn't look too old, what I believe happened was that the previous bearing failure resulted in a wallered out hub face, the last bearing was fitted, probably not packed with grease correctly either, and because the fit was loose the race has spun and cooked the grease out of the bearing and seized it.

    Machining out the hub and fitting a sleeve would be ideal, however in this case I used a pin punch to raise the surface and shrink the hub hole (when you hit metal with a punch there will be a divot, the area around it will raise up). This should last a few years at least. In this case it was a good option for me because I have 2nd gen spindles waiting to be cleaned up and installed.

    And that's the last of the pictures. Search online for how to correctly pack a bearing with grease, you want it totally packed with no air bubbles. You then rub a bit of grease on the spindle, install the inner bearing, install the lip seal ontop of that, load some grease inside the hub, place the outer bearing in the race. Place the whole assembly on the spindle and torque the nut down tight to seat everything, then loosen it off and retorque to the correct level. Pack some grease in the grease cup to stop water getting in, and make sure to use a new split pin.

    spins nice now, I ordered a second bearing kit incase I need to do the other side soon too

  18. #118

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    There is an art to packing a bearing. You can buy a gadget to force it through the roller cages or keep scooping it through like ice cream but if you don't get it right, the bearing isn't going to give you it's best (as per the above pictures - geez people, grease is cheap - no excuse for it looking like that...) Did you take the entire Gen 2 assemblies? Once I get the right lower control arm bushes and pay someone to press in the ball joint (I DIY'ed one and wasn't super happy with the end result) I'll be ready to glue my front end back together. No cash, not much time
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  19. #119

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    Thought I had better sort that fuel filter before it caused me issues

    grubby existing lines and wires


    Fuel feed kinked and not even flared


    Area cleaned, painted with black zinc, mount position drilled and rivnut, fuel line bent up to meet new filter, and fuel line flared


    Cheap filter/pump mount. I cut off one leg as its otherwise too wide for the chassis rail. I kept the cut off leg as a spacer so the body of the filter would clear the existing return and brake lines. drilled a new hole in the chassis rather than using that existing one as the cab floor goes up here allowing me to get the filter nice and tucked out of the way


    And all mounted


    Do need to do some nice tidy wiring at some point, and I wrote the km on the filter for the next guy (probably me) 250000km on the speedo (but it was 20% slow for 20 years so who knows)

  20. #120

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    And the results are in on the intake temperatures

    With engine at operating temp and moving at between 30 and 100kph the temperature in the airbox (just after the filter) is consistantly 5 degrees C over ambiant temperature. Temperatures at the end of the air intake pipe just before the throttle body are consistantly 10 degrees higher than that.
    So at cruise throttle body air is 15 degrees C warmer than ambiant.
    This rises rapidly when in stopped or very slow moving traffic, but drops back within about a minute of free flowing driving. So no major heat soak issues. (there are plenum insulators / risers for the buick engine, i might try pull some data on the intake air temp one day)

    So what next
    I think i will fold up some small snorkle from airbox to inner lamp panel and see if sucking air from next to the radiator is any better. Then i might try a survival blanket or something on the intake pipe. Im not super worried about these temps

  21. #121

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    I doubt Holdens were either when they took an outdated FWD engine and jammed it in their bogan sleds (distinctive Australian cultural terminology). It's probably been affecting fuel economy and idle stability from day one. It would be beneficial to actually vent the bonnet/hood to let heat escape the whole engine bay (will impact both intake temps and radiator efficiency).
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