Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 38 of 38

Thread: Newbie with Dad's 1994 Mighty Max

  1. #26




    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-20-2011
    Posts
    4,545
    Location

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle

    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    We do our best to steer you right (pun intended).
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  2. #27

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64

    Horn repair....Attempt... :(

    Well I did my horn pad repair, sorta, but it is still doing the same thing. As soon as I put the ignition key in the horn starts wailing on it's own. The horn pad itself isn't activating the horn and I know for certain that it is not making contact to activate the horn. I'm stumped. Could it be I have a faulty horn? I removed it and the exterior is rusty, but the connections all seem to look OK. My mechanical skills are limited to say the least, but I do like to attempt repairs before I take it to a Pro.

    Any other suggestions of what it could be?

    I'll post photos tomorrow when I get to my desk top PC of the horn pad repair.

  3. #28

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    01-24-2017
    Posts
    536
    Location

    New Zealand
    Vehicle

    1981 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    Other
    Possibly the wire has worn through and is earthing out somewhere in the loom.
    You probably want to trace it back through the loom. You could put a multimeter on the horn switch to confirm that its going open circuit

  4. #29

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    3,327
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Check that you haven't accidentally bridged the circuit when you tried fixing the horn pad. If it was o.k. before the horn malfunctioned the chances are it's still the horn pad. A crusty/rusted out horn 'normally' wouldn't go off by itself - they either don't work or sound terrible.
    Last edited by geezer101; 03-08-2018 at 09:30 PM.

  5. #30

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn1.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	145.0 KB 
ID:	20113
    This is what was under the horn pad when I got started. An old T-shirt with duct tape. Apparently either my brother or my Dad attempted a repair in the past that didn't quite work either. LOL!
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn2.jpg 
Views:	32 
Size:	184.7 KB 
ID:	20114
    The copper contact was pretty dirty/corroded as was the metal base. I took a stripper wheel to the metal base and went online to see about cleaning the copper contact. Low and behold Ketchup was suggested as a cleaning agent. After about 30 mins of soaking it came out pretty nice.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn3.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	198.4 KB 
ID:	20115Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn4.jpg 
Views:	31 
Size:	161.5 KB 
ID:	20121Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn10.jpg 
Views:	26 
Size:	159.0 KB 
ID:	20116Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn5.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	197.6 KB 
ID:	20117
    I had some leftover seat foam out in the garage that I used for the repair. I cut two pieces making sure only the middle portion of the copper contact made contact with the metal base when pressed.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn13.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	208.3 KB 
ID:	20118Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn14.jpg 
Views:	28 
Size:	115.6 KB 
ID:	20119Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorn8.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	108.0 KB 
ID:	20120
    I ended up shaving the top piece of foam slightly thinner than shown because it made the cover bulge more than I liked, but it felt pretty good when pressing the horn pad. Unfortunately I still have an issue, but hopefully in the coming weeks I'll get a chance to track down the issue.

    Thanks for yall's input and if there are any other suggestions I am all ears!
    Last edited by GPD294; 03-05-2018 at 10:49 AM.

  6. #31

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    I came across this discussion of the horn: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ns-of-Colorado which got me thinking. I am wondering if when my brother changed the steering wheel out with the after market one if he removed the ring that sits behind the steering wheel itself? I don't remember what was behind there when I re-installed the original wheel.

    It would sorta make sense because when I would put the ignition key in, the horn would start wailing, but when I turned the steering wheel it would change the horn's pitch. Hmmm??? Looks like I need to pull the steering wheel off again and check if that ring is there.

    At least I have a lead now...LOL!

  7. #32

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64

    Attempt #2

    Well attempt #2...I removed the horn pad, steering wheel, and disassembled everything for a good cleaning. Since I didn't take any of this apart, my brother did when he added the smaller aftermarket steering wheel, I'm assuming I have my wiring wrong maybe?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorne.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	237.3 KB 
ID:	20129
    This is how it was wired before

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihornf.jpg 
Views:	22 
Size:	242.7 KB 
ID:	20130
    This is how I re-wired it, but it still didn't work. (I did attach that little tab seen here to the wire and this is where the wire from the horn pad attaches.


    There is no copper ring behind the steering wheel like explained in the other post. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ns-of-Colorado There is metal ring with a wire attached which is part of the steering wheel itself. A thin yellowish metal tab rubs against this metal ring making contact at all times. I cleaned all these contact points. If something is missing please let me know. This is getting a little frustrating.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorna.jpg 
Views:	21 
Size:	234.7 KB 
ID:	20131 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihornb.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	219.3 KB 
ID:	20132

    I did clean all the contacts and even played with the wiring behind the steering pad to no avail.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihornc.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	180.0 KB 
ID:	20133 Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihornd.jpg 
Views:	20 
Size:	303.8 KB 
ID:	20134

    If anyone who has a functioning horn pad can please post a photo of where what goes where as far as wiring I'd greatly appreciate it....Thanks guys in advance!
    Last edited by GPD294; 03-09-2018 at 08:13 AM.

  8. #33

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Mitsubishihorng.jpg 
Views:	19 
Size:	213.1 KB 
ID:	20135
    On a side note, does anyone know what attaches to this plug? It is just dangling just below the fuse box?
    Last edited by GPD294; 03-10-2018 at 08:56 PM.

  9. #34

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64

    It's fixed...

    I'm VICTORIOUS!!!!!! Guess who has been annoying the neighbors just driving around the block HONKING that DAM HORN? LOL!

    Apparently I was making contact at the metal base and copper contact where the wire is attached on top of the horn pad. I used tacky "home door frame" weatherstripping instead of the seat foam because it doesn't move. It stays in place so it doesn't cause the unwanted contact.

    Again I appreciate the help guys and I hope if anyone else has the same problem this helps yall as well.
    Last edited by GPD294; 03-10-2018 at 08:58 PM.

  10. #35

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    Hey Guys/Gals...Next on the list is figuring out the BRAKE light on the dash cluster. It stays ON regardless if the Emergency Brake is ON or OFF. Any suggestions?

  11. #36

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,150
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Check your brake fluid level
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  12. #37

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    3,327
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    ^ and make sure the float switch in the reservoir isn't stuck/jammed.

  13. #38

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-25-2017
    Posts
    36
    Location

    DFW-TX
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    I'll check both of these suggestions and post my findings when I get some time...Thanks!

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •