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Thread: Coolant doing weird things

  1. #26

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    Ok, flushed whole cooling system to my best ability.

    Tested Thermostat, opening fine.

    Does this sound suspect to anyone? - After warming up (which seems to be taking longer than usual to reach temperature still) Top half of Rad is hot, while even after driving for fifteen minutes the lower tank of the Rad is cold to the touch, I mean cold, not even warm, as well as the lower hose. (I have heat inside cab)

    Thoughts are if this is because the thermostat was stuck closed it wouldn't be taking longer to heat up, and would overheat. So does that sound like a clogged radiator, coolant isn't making it's way down through the Rad, and being forced out of the overflow/bubbling out the top.

    Much thanks for this long winded thread and all the replies...Hopefully narrowing down on the issue!

  2. #27

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    what is the thermostat in use?....195f would be the uppermost limit...i'd try a higher thermostat....sounds like the one in use is opening too soon.
    She's mighty mighty just lettin' it all hang out

  3. #28

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    Overheating can be caused by multiple things. First make sure your radiator cap is in good condition.

  4. #29



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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmuirhead9 View Post
    UPDATE:

    Got my hands on a combustion leak tester kit...which showed no results of fluid changing color. It even had enough pressure to blow through the tester I did not have to use the hand pump or vaccum line. I tried it out of my exhaust pipe to be sure, and it turned yellow instantly.

    So if this means that I have no issues with head/gasket leaking compression, what else would be forcing coolant to bubble out?
    Feeling good if this means that it's only something to do with the cooling system and not engine.

    Thanks again
    So after going through the hole thread and taking this information as gold. I'm guessing there is a hot spot on the head or block. Now way back when you first started this was the water black and nasty?
    Also. it could be a water pump and radiator problem. If it's not getting enough flow through the radiator it will allow water to boil on the rear cylinders. I have seen engines that shed a lot of rust and it collects around the rear cylinder causing a low flow. When driving these things will pump 30 gallons a minute. Water is flying through an engine. A train will pump 500 GPM. So have the radiator rodded out and swap out the pump while your doing it.
    Also how hot is the heater? stick a thermometer down there and see how hot it is. If you can test it on the water lines them self. One of them point and shoot temp tools are great for finding hot spots.
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  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmuirhead9 View Post
    Ok, flushed whole cooling system to my best ability.

    Tested Thermostat, opening fine.

    Does this sound suspect to anyone? - After warming up (which seems to be taking longer than usual to reach temperature still) Top half of Rad is hot, while even after driving for fifteen minutes the lower tank of the Rad is cold to the touch, I mean cold, not even warm, as well as the lower hose. (I have heat inside cab)

    Thoughts are if this is because the thermostat was stuck closed it wouldn't be taking longer to heat up, and would overheat. So does that sound like a clogged radiator, coolant isn't making it's way down through the Rad, and being forced out of the overflow/bubbling out the top.

    Much thanks for this long winded thread and all the replies...Hopefully narrowing down on the issue!
    Did you put the thermostat in the right way? The spring part will face into the waterpump (as dumb as it sounds)

  6. #31

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    It's a 180F Thermostat, and yeah I installed it with the spring part in the waterpump. (worth an ask)

    Camoit - I don't recall the water ever looking too bad, definitely not black. I'll see if I can find one of them temp tools.

    And figured I'd upload a video to give you a visual on what's happening...This is after warming up for about 1 minute. When I press the throttle the water is forced up. At this temp should it not just be circulating through the block?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EtL...ature=youtu.be

    Thanks!!

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jmuirhead9 View Post
    It's a 180F Thermostat, and yeah I installed it with the spring part in the waterpump. (worth an ask)

    Camoit - I don't recall the water ever looking too bad, definitely not black. I'll see if I can find one of them temp tools.

    And figured I'd upload a video to give you a visual on what's happening...This is after warming up for about 1 minute. When I press the throttle the water is forced up. At this temp should it not just be circulating through the block?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EtL...ature=youtu.be

    Thanks!!
    The thermostat wont just stay open once it hits 180, it will cycle. You have hot water at the radiator cap so it should be working.

    Did you replace the waterpump? if so did you silicon it as well with the gasket? i ask because when you look up the water pump, some show it with the steel backplate (so you cant see the impeller) others without it. Mine i took off had the plate, as well as the one i put on

  8. #33

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    No I have not replaced the water pump, but seems like that is the next thing. Rad or water pump first?

    Cheers

  9. #34

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    I would replace the pump first. You could "test" the pump. Take one of the heatercore hoses off and start it, it should spray lol. If it doesnt spray your pump is shot

  10. #35

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    Most recent diagnosis is that my radiator is clogged.

    lordco sent me the wrong one, and they don't have the proper one...rock auto seems to be the same. A radiator shop said they would re core it for $450 $&@!, which I'm not ready to fork out. Any advice on how to come by a rad that would work for the 86 ranger?
    Thanks

  11. #36



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    You can get any radiator at a wrecking yard in install it in our trucks. I use an oversized chevy radiator with the side tank caps instead of the top and bottom capping.
    As long as the hose entrance and exit are the same place and mounting holes can have adapters made to mount the new radiator. When you get a radiator for our trucks, you better be very careful since our trucks love to crack heads from over heating. It don't take long to crack these heads and care needs to be taken and engine heat watched closely. When choosing a radiator for our trucks, NEVER get one with less vent tubing then the ones we have stock. A good upgrade would have additional tubes to reassure you get proper cooling. Also , replace the thermostat with a good name brand, preferably the OEM if you can get one.

    Oh ya one more thing:
    Tell them $450 radiator core people to shove it up their ass. That is the most ridiculous price I ever heard and I would never go back there again.

  12. #37

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    I know a guy who is having his Mach I Rust-tank rebuilt and he is forking out $850 AU to have the original radiator re-cored.

  13. #38

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    $1000 for my thermosyphon minor Rae. You don't want to know how much for a beehive hexagon style one for my old commer.

    Was there any reason they couldn't rod the old tank? Otherwise hit the junk yard with a measuring tape. As long as the outlets are on the right sides and it's roughly the right size you can make them fit for minimal fuss

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by tortron View Post
    $1000 for my thermosyphon minor Rae. You don't want to know how much for a beehive hexagon style one for my old commer.

    Was there any reason they couldn't rod the old tank? Otherwise hit the junk yard with a measuring tape. As long as the outlets are on the right sides and it's roughly the right size you can make them fit for minimal fuss
    As part of his historic registration, he has to keep the car as close to OEM as possible. He's heard enough about ebay radiators and how not so good they are. Hey, it's his money (and his car). Still better than his brother (he paid $400 for his Mazda 808 heater re-core...)

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