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Thread: Oil Pan Cleaning 2.0L G63B

  1. #1

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    Angry Oil Pan Cleaning 2.0L G63B

    I have a 88' Ram 50 2.0L with 188k I bought recently, the previous owner was a bit unfriendly, I'm afraid. In this post I will go over how I took off and cleaned my oil pan.

    Don't forget your gasket and liquid gasket before starting!


    IMG_0265[1].jpg


    Hey all, cleaned out my oil pan this afternoon after three oil changes within a month that all came out black.. I expected a bunch of sludge in there but luckily it was relatively clean.

    IMG_0268[1].jpg
    Here is a picture of the instructions from the shop manual.


    Manual.jpg

    I already had off the under cowling which covers up the oil filter because of how frequently I had been changing the oil. It's four bolts - 12 mil and I needed an extension for the rear two closest to the trans.

    I got the truck for a great price that I couldn't turn down, so it definitely needed some work. The valve cover seems to have been leaking for the past 20k miles. There is cruddy oil all over my engine and down to the oil pan.

    Oil pan bottom.jpg
    (I did not have to undo my oil pressure switch)

    Next I used a 1/4 inch ratchet with extension to reach the 10 mil bolts around the pan. There's a bunch and 2 are in a tight spot on top of the cross bar that the engine mounts to, I had to use a swivel joint for those. I loosened everything, and pulled out with size 3 philips screw driver.
    oil pan bottom 2.jpg

    After taking out all the bolts the pan sticks on due to the old gasket sealant. The manual suggests using a special tool that looks like a pry bar kinda, however I have no idea where to get it and I'm not paying for it. I used my trusty rubber mallet and with a few delicate swings in the sweet spots, it came loose. You have to get it under the lip of the timing cover on the front but it slides out besides that.


    OILPANHAMMER.jpg

    Checked out my crank and felt around in there. There was a small metal bit on the oil screen. Nothing felt too loose, I didn't have my feeler gauges on me so I couldn't verify bearings.

    UNDERSIDECCRANK.jpg

    oilscreen.jpg


    The pan wasn't too bad comparing to a bunch of bikes that I've gone through however there was metal in there. And, something very peculiar.....


    dirty oil pan.jpg

    The two metal pieces look like valve holders...? I was going to replace the valve lashers tomorrow because I was getting a very dirty clicking from the exhaust valve, number 2 cyl from the front. (stethoscope - very handy.) It seems I will have more work ahead of me.

    valve holders.jpg


    After cleaning out the pan.. (I didn't have any shop solvents or brake cleaner so I just used shop rags and paper towels.) ... I scraped off the old gasket and filed it down on both the pan and under the crank.

    OILPANCLEAN.jpgcleanundersidegasket.jpg

    That's the best I could clean the pan with what I had.. I was expecting a large amount of sludge or stuff I would have to scoop out with a spoon. I have changed the oil so many times it must have cleared away most of it, best guess.

    After cleaning everything. I put the liquid gasket on the spots specified in the manual. Pretty much where all the cases meet. I also put a little extra on there so that I could press the gasket up on the engine and it would stick to it with the holes lined up. I had learned this lesson awhile ago on one of my bikes.. you will end up very frustrated if you try to put the pan on with the gasket resting (or even grease sticked) onto it.



    oilpangasket.jpg

    Retighten - again, I used a 1/4 ratchet.. these are small bolts and they will strip the casing if over torqued. Even if you had to use a 3/8ths to get off, I recommend using the smaller ratchet or taking much care.

    Hopefully this will hasten the process to golden oil. I might try using an engine cleaner after checking out the valves.

    Good luck guys and let me know what ya think!

    Mike
    Last edited by Mikclson; 03-22-2017 at 09:57 PM.

  2. #2

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    Nice work Mikclson. Yup those be valve collets. Not a good sign... If you have always struggled with cans of degreaser and rivers of sludge running down your driveway or your garage floor when tackling a filthy engine I've got a killer tip for you - oven cleaner. Specificallynon-caustic oven cleaner. Doesn't seem to work as well on contaminated gearbox crud but it makes short work of a grimy engine. Spray it on, break it up with a brush and hit it with a pressure cleaner or the garden hose on full blast. Best part is it doesn't leave a rainbow colored EPA magnet river flowing onto the street. Safe enough to spray onto your hands and won't attack paintwork in the short term.

    Another tip I have is performing an engine flush - I did a write up on a technique to optimise flushing out an engine that is not only very effective, but helps quieten noisy hydraulics and is dirt cheap - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post49688 If you want to try something before installing a bunch of new lash adjusters, test my method out and post your results!

    And thanks for posting up your sump clean out procedure. Comprehensive pics are always a big help. This will encourage the members who are apprehensive on taking tools to their truck but want to have a shot at it

  3. #3



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    Seafoam might help. Also put a hard drive magnet on the bottom of your oil pan and one on the oil filter. Might keep more stuff down until next oil change.

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the tips geezer, I'll be sure to do that engine douche and especially the oven cleaner one. Very excited to see the results, but I want to check all the valves first. The collet in the pan is bothersome. I am not sure if the last person in there dropped it on accident or if it happened over time but I'm fairly certain I'd know if it had dropped a valve.

    Brad - ive put seafoam in the oil in two of my early changess - although it didnt make any noise difference with hydraulics it did seem to clean out some sludge build up.

  5. #5


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    I second that Magnet in the Oil Pan, old Racers trick, they knew it was going to blow sometime! New cars now have a magnetic drain plug. you found a Gasket for the oil pan? the 4G64's don't even have one, sealant only...What? No fresh coat of Paint?

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by LSR Mike View Post
    I second that Magnet in the Oil Pan, old Racers trick, they knew it was going to blow sometime! New cars now have a magnetic drain plug. you found a Gasket for the oil pan? the 4G64's don't even have one, sealant only...What? No fresh coat of Paint?

    The gasket wasn't too hard to find, I guess there are more available for my engine..Do you mean paint on the outside of the pan? For rust prevention or just to keep things neat? This truck needs A LOT right now so I'm teying to budget the necessities first.. but you can bet I have some plans for the future for aesthetics ��

  7. #7


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    I always have had a habit of cleaning and painting anything i took off the truck/engine for maintenance. Corrosion control, and it also helps you find any leaks or problems...

    also something to do while waiting on parts :-)

    Intake 001.jpg

  8. #8



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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikclson View Post
    Thanks for the tips geezer, I'll be sure to do that engine douche and especially the oven cleaner one. Very excited to see the results, but I want to check all the valves first. The collet in the pan is bothersome. I am not sure if the last person in there dropped it on accident or if it happened over time but I'm fairly certain I'd know if it had dropped a valve.

    Brad - ive put seafoam in the oil in two of my early changess - although it didnt make any noise difference with hydraulics it did seem to clean out some sludge build up.
    Just thought I'd throw it out. They have flush at auto stores also. I think some even put diesel fuel or something it there also.

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