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Thread: Part identification question, 4d55 (picture)

  1. #1

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    Part identification question, 4d55 (picture)

    So just had a quick question. I got this engine in pieces so some things weren't there to begin with, just wondered if someone could tell me what might fill this threaded hole behind the timing belt. Thanks!
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  2. #2

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    pictures im finding are just showing a bolt/plug

  3. #3

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    I thought it looked very similar to the threaded block off cap on the 4G63's...

  4. #4

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    I agree with them both. It just is a trap door to see that passenger side balance shaft and make it so you can reach in and loosen the bolt that is on the top of the balance shaft there.

  5. #5

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    Awesome, that's what I like to hear. Thanks everyone.

  6. #6

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    Episode two - part identification with a picture

    sorry for my naivete

    Anyone know where this goes? xD I am sorry I am very new to this engine, so starting in pieces was really stupid. There was a similar one to the oil pan for the dipstick, so I was thinking maybe it was a transmission fluid dipstick but cannot find a place for it.

    Thanks again!
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  7. #7

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    Looks like the external coolant gallery that runs off the water pump outlet, around the block to the heater hose and to the back of the head on most Mitsubishi engines (try saying that with a mouthful of peanuts!) The gallery brackets will line up with bolt holes on the block.

  8. #8

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    Yeah, so the end that the tube bends up and away is where a soft line goes into the cab for the heater, the larger end should have a rubber O-ring and is just pressed into the back of the water pump, there are only a few mounting points around towards the back of the block where it attaches to everything.

  9. #9

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    I second that. The female end just slides onto the water pump and then it bolts to the head and your heater core hose comes through the firewall and attaches to the male end. Don't judge me for assuming the gender of your coolant gallery!

  10. #10

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    Alright, sounds good, thanks again everyone! The car it is going into had pretty much solid rust as coolant, so the heater core is dead as a door nail. I have a brand new bmw e30 heater core I may try to frankinstall.. we shall see. If I end up not being able to salvage any kind of heater core, do you guys think I could just cap the feed and return? Hopefully the small amount of cooling that it might provide is not crucial..

  11. #11

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    You can try soaking the heater core in a solution of citric acid powder and warm water, then flushing it out. You may be surprised. If anything it might have some pin holes in the end tanks (which can be soldered up). You can bypass the core with a single hose worst case scenario. If you choose to pull the blower box out and attempt to clean out the core, post a pic of what you find. IDK if the Colts all ran the same heater set ups, but I do have a really good condition heater core from a '75-'77 I won't be using in a rush...

  12. #12

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    Well I yanked it today, does this look like the same one? It looks like the core itself is pretty well built in, so I doubt I could replace it with the bmw one I have.. that would be great if it is the same one!

    Kind of an excessive amount of pictures I suppose, but whatever makes it easy to compare.
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  13. #13

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    The core pipes look different to the one I have. I don't know what advice to offer you on this one as the case appears to be spot welded together. If you got game you can drill the spot welds out, disassemble the case ends and then pop rivet it back together. If the core is toast you haven't lost anything, but this thing would be very simple to recondition if the heater core proves to be in half decent shape.

  14. #14

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    Fair enough, no worries. I will get a bunch of fluid running through it and see what comes out. Maybe there is hope yet!

  15. #15



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    almost looks like a d-50 / ram 50 1st gen core would work...
    Pennyman1
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  16. #16

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    vs

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  17. #17



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    then again, maybe not - it was a thought, thanks for the visual. Maybe a starquest, since it is a car...
    Pennyman1
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  18. #18

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    Geezers is similar to a Starquest (atleast the pipes with on off valve. noting 83-87 and 88-89 starquest cores are different and incompatible (related to the pipes but dont remember the exact thing)
    Even if you wanted to make a starquest core work, the problem is, finding a GOOD core for a starquest (most leak and no replacements are available) and getting a used one is normally pricey for a good one, calls for 8 hrs to replace the core in one, and i can attest it does take a couple hours to pull the dang thing out. Might be better off making something like a dakota or s10 core work, they are also dirt cheap new

  19. #19



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    too bad - I have the whole heater unit from a conquest TSI sitting on a shelf if some one could use it...
    Pennyman1
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  20. #20

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    How big do you think the heater core is? I have a weird alternative that will require some out 'of the box' thinking to connect a heater valve and make it work - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Rad...cAAOSw4CFYtXT1

    ...absurdly cheap compared to an automotive core

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    How big do you think the heater core is? I have a weird alternative that will require some out 'of the box' thinking to connect a heater valve and make it work - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Computer-Rad...cAAOSw4CFYtXT1

    ...absurdly cheap compared to an automotive core
    Computer radiators do not have any pressure on them, also ment for lower temps, so i do not know how well it would work for you, along with the inlet/outlet is normally a little smaller than 3/8's

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    too bad - I have the whole heater unit from a conquest TSI sitting on a shelf if some one could use it...
    might be worth checking but this is the top of a 87 and older core

  23. #23

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    At this point I am banking on the old one cleaning up to some degree.

    Another question for you fantastic 4d55 people. I will definitely have to do something here, but I am just curious how bad these engines shake? My clearances are pretty microscopic at the moment.. in fact the transmission is as close as matters touching the hard lines in the firewall (as seen).
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  24. #24

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    You don't want the engine touching any solid mounted lines regardless on how much it moves. If you can re-route the lines that would be option #1. Option #2 is to move the engine forward a little somehow (maybe by modifying the mounts...?) Won't need to be moved by much.

  25. #25

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    your engine appears to be to far back. the valve cover you should be fine, however those brake lines you are going to hit. The engine has quiet a bit of movement pending the condition of the motor mounts.

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