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Thread: Front deck speakers?

  1. #1

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    Front deck speakers?

    Anyone have any after market speakers for the front dash ? I want an entire Sony system, and want some ideas for the existing speakers or an alternative. Thank you for your thoughts. Gs

  2. #2

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    MIHIFISHI has posted he was able to fit 5.25" speakers in the factory dash speaker location. Don't use Sony speakers - they are barely reasonable in build quality (or Pioneer - insert facepalm here...). You are going to be limited with what speaker you install in the factory locations due to the lack of depth available. *Speakers in the dash tend not to last as long due to prolonged heat exposure, windscreen condensation and direct daylight. Good quality sounding car audio comes with sacrifice - like cutting up door trims. If there's a business that sells a good range of car audio gear local to you, go take a look at them and try some of them out. Speakers with small magnets, thin pressed steel chassis, speaker cones that feel like the lid off a sandwich spread and little rivetted speaker terminals = JUNK. Best advice I can give you is try out split system speakers. A set of 5.25" or 6" midrange speakers with tweeters and cross over circuits sound better than a dual cone or co-axial speaker. You can get some good deals online but you need to know what you're buying.
    Last edited by geezer101; 03-06-2017 at 06:11 PM.

  3. #3




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    I thought the factory speakers were 4.5" not 5.25 " in the dash, but it has been years since I had a 2nd gen.
    Pennyman1
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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    I thought the factory speakers were 4.5" not 5.25 " in the dash, but it has been years since I had a 2nd gen.
    AFAIK standard speaker sizes start @ 4" (and as with most mass manufactured vehicles, Mitsubishi would've cheaped out and bought a low wattage standard size speaker), but as per my previous post MIHIFISHI has managed to fit 5.25"s in the factory dash locations -
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...7561#post37561 Unfortunately it looks like he hasn't updated this thread so we don't know the outcome.

  5. #5

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    I decided to install the CD./radio unit I bought myself for Christmas a couple years ago. Well I have the dash speaker out. It is an oddball. I found this website but the speakers they show come in pairs and do not have the correct mounting holes. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/dodg...-speakers.html So I emailed them the picture and am awaiting a reply to see if they have anything that fits properly like the OE. Does anyone have that speaker part number?

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    That is 6.75" center to center on the mounting holes. 3.5x5.75 actual speaker measurement. I can see how a 5.25 round speaker might fit if the two corner mounts were far enough apart. I was hoping the good 6x8 out of my Dakota would fit. Off by about an inch and probably too deep for the location.

  6. #6

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    I don't want to throw a wet blanket your plan, but why are you using an OEM single speaker with a new CD radio head unit? You have spent the money and it would be a disappointment not to get the enjoyment out of it. The new head unit will have at least 4 speaker outputs which is a quantum leap over the mono channel radio Mitsubishi fitted over 30 years ago. The door chassis will take a pair of 4" speakers, but with any older vehicle you will need to cut up a trim or make speaker mounts to get the benefit of car audio. There are good ways and not so good ways (like my Gen 1 where some idiot took an angle grinder to the rust free doors to fit the nastiest, cheap 6x9's and consequently destroy a pair of good door trims).
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    Thanks Geez. The head unit is a cheapo $55 job from Malwarts. I did not know better and I cut up the dash when I put the $25 tape deck radio in it and threw the OE AM radio out when I bought it. I also cut two holes for 6" rounds in the doors. If I knew then what I know now... I am going to use two door speakers from my Dakota(I replaced all those speakers) and the dash mounted speaker if I can find a good one new. I had planned to get this item http://www.stylintrucks.com/parts/dashtop_highliner_headliner/1104000116_32560G.aspx# and go with 5 speakers but they sold the last one that fits the 1st gen. I waited too long.
    EDIT- Apparently I did not copy the link right. If it still doesn't work now that I repasted it, copy paste it the addy is correct.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 05-23-2018 at 05:42 PM.

  8. #8

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    Are you sh*ttin' me - they made these for Gen 1's? I was looking at using one from a full size truck and cutting it down but they are expensive and I have a feeling the freight would've been brutal (big chunk of cash to invest in something that might not work and is only for a stereo install...) As it is I'd have to make an overhead console for a stereo due to my dash being slaughtered by the same for-mentioned PO (I converted the slot for a triple 2" gauge set and I don't want to wreck my good lower console) Good head units are do-able on the cheap, I don't want to come across as some kind of snob but for a few bucks more you can get a half decent CD player or even a digital mechless unit that plays from an iPod/iPhone/USB stick. I have a box of insane car audio gear but it's too over the top for a little truck cab and it's worth more than the truck (in dollars anyway) All I'm planning on using is a used digital mechless tuner with a very cheesy surround sound module and 2 pairs of speakers (which I haven't decided on yet, maybe a pair of 4"s with 6" or 6.5" splits in the doors and pillars...)
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  9. #9

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    EDIT- THIS METHOD DID NOT WORK. THE PLYWOOD WAS TOO BIG. THE SIDES OF THE OE SPEAKER MOUNT ARE THE ABSOLUTE LIMIT ON WIDTH. LOOK BELOW I REUSED THE OE SPEAKER FRAME.

    The one they had was $229US if I remember correctly. Thanks for the advice you aren't a snob I'm not that worried about the quality of the sound system. I think it will still be very nice.
    I went to the stereo install place that I know of and I got a pair of 4" Pics attached. The guy who would have installed it let me know he was just going to use a piece of plywood, wink, where the salesman was talking about "making a plate" , Once he told me that I realized how to fix it and bought the speakers being recommended. IDK how to judge but you gotta trust people sometimes. He told me he gave me a $50 cut in price. I paid $80 for the two of them. So here are pics of the solution I came up with. I have not stuck it in yet because I am waiting for paint to dry so I can go get some spade fittings that fit. The ones I bought at the hardware look right but are too tight. Once I get that in and a wire dangling I am going to s solder the rest of the connections if I can and for the Chrysler door speakers I am going to have to see if Crutchfield will send me a set of connectors so I could use the OE connector.

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    It's good enough for me. I used half inch plywood when I broke the 1/4 inch twice. I'm sure you could use 1/4 if you had a better jigsaw than I. The hole in the middle was to be 4" maybe just a bit bigger, I might be a bit a lot bigger. A hole saw would be best if you had one. Finding screws short enough to mount it to the wood is a problem too. If I couldn't get them I was going to grind off the extra from the stock screws it came with. The two holes for the mount I drilled straight through the old speaker 1/4 inch hole. I'm hoping I do not have to try to mount it on top of the board. I may put a bit of landscape fabric over it to protect it from sun.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 05-25-2018 at 01:12 PM.

  10. #10

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    The speakers have nice big magnets on them - a good start. Best way to know if you're looking at good or junk speakers - decent sized magnets, the chassis of the speaker feels solid, decent speaker terminals that aren't just tabs held on with tiny rivets, the speaker cone is either paper fibre that has been doped in some kind of resin or a poly type plastic that doesn't feel like the lid off a sandwich spread container, and a firm urethane suspension ring holding it together. Good reviews for the price tag on the EMV 100.5 speakers, I think you got a good deal! These need to be properly mounted to make them shine - the gaps around your speaker mounts will affect how efficiently they work.

    Buy a sheet of MDF for your speaker board. It's a lot more forgiving to cut up and sand than plywood. While you're there grab a can of spray on adhesive and find a scrap of felt from somewhere (big enough to cover both speaker mounts) Spray the board and the back of the felt with the adhesive and when it's tacked off, press the 2 together and smooth it out. Pro finish for chump change

    Maybe the place you got the speakers from have a spare pair of 4" speaker grilles they're willing to part with. Some places might charge you a few bucks for something left over from an install. They will protect your speakers from impact damage and make it look complete.
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  11. #11

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    The speakers have nice big magnets on them - a good start. Best way to know if you're looking at good or junk speakers - decent sized magnets, the chassis of the speaker feels solid, decent speaker terminals that aren't just tabs held on with tiny rivets, the speaker cone is either paper fibre that has been doped in some kind of resin or a poly type plastic that doesn't feel like the lid off a sandwich spread container, and a firm urethane suspension ring holding it together
    I used to think that also...... until u listen to some of those oem sound systems;
    Crappy flimsy lookin paper cone/usually plastic frame, with teeeeennny magnets, that sound amazing @ only ~10 watts!
    Extemely lightweight and efficient(very import for deck only), plus cheap = perfect for the mobile application
    my later installs mimic oem. VERY satisfying sound from a $150 total investment
    $50 mechless players = smaller & way lighter than a CD. Tiny SD card holds allloooottt of music
    Good reviews for the price tag on the EMV 100.5 speakers! These need to be properly mounted to make them shine - the gaps around your speaker mounts will affect how efficiently they work
    Proper mounting makes a HUGE diference - night & day!
    Puny dash speaker r doomed with no crossover to scrub off the bass.
    I dremel-surgery out the tweeter midrange pod from 3-way speakers, and use those in the dash with fabric over em....
    Just for imageing/soundstage. Wired in paralell to door speakers. I'll figure something out for truck rear column speakers

  12. #12

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    Doped paper cones are actually better sound quality wise. They produce a 'warmer', more natural sound - I had a pair of Rockford Fosgate Punch 5.25's as part of the front splits in my very first decent car audio installs and they sounded brilliant and were absolute beasts when pushed hard. Plastic cones are good at pushing a lot of air as they're quite rigid but they can sound 'bright' or a bit sharp. There is nothing wrong with injection molded plastic chassis, they are less likely to 'buzz' or make noise if they're not dampened somehow from their surface mounted location (they can also cheat a little as they become reinforced by whatever they're screwed to). Car audio is a bit scammy sometimes too when you actually take a look at what companies are owned by whom and what they're selling. Once you've sat in a car/truck with a good audio set up you get a new appreciation for what a stereo install can really sound like. And it doesn't have to be big bucks either (the SRS module I'll use in the truck is absolutely cheap and laughable, but I used it in my Lancer fastback with 4 6" single cone speakers and it was like sitting in an ampitheatre - it was amazing, even if the control knobs were sketchy and would sometimes crackle or pull out of tune)
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  13. #13

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    oops

  14. #14

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    The speakers are poly cones, the body is metal and the magnet is covered with plastic. I have felt I'll think about getting MDF but I'm not that invested in the idea unless this thing just sound horrible. I will cover this mount as suggested. That should give some UV protection.

  15. #15

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    The plywood was too bulky. The absolute limit on width is the width of the OE speaker. I chose to cut up the OE speaker frame and screw the new one to it. If you have a nice cutting wheel for your grinder that would be best to do the job. Make the cut out flush on the back side. I marked the holes and used a drill to make pilot holes before screwing the screws through those hole, then I mounted the speaker to it. I had to cover the cone and grind off the top of the screws (sheet metal self tapping 1/4 long) then paint. I used a paint brush and sprayed a puddle to dip it in to get at the fidly bits. The felt did not want to cut after I glued it on so it looks like heck. The thing is mounted. I discovered on my trip to the JY that the gen 1 Dakotas are getting rare around here no joy finding OE speaker harness connectors but those spades that did not work on the new speaker will work on the OE dak speakers I am going to put in the door. I got a plastic sleeve that holds the short locking sleeve that comes with the head unit and some speaker backing for the door for free. The sleeve is too fat around the edges. I'm going to look for another one. Here's the new pics. EDIT- the speaker backing is really a kind of mount with molded in cover to protect the speaker from rain. I'll take a picture when I get to mounting them.

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    Last edited by 85Ram50; 05-25-2018 at 05:31 PM.

  16. #16

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    I got the harness soldered up and installed the speakers. I have the power and memory soldered to the Radio fuse but I think this will not provide full time 12v power. Anyone know which fuse is 12v full time with the key off? I plugged the head unit to the harness and it is working. All speakers good no static. I have the dash cover out and am painting it. I haven't mounted the head unit yet. I may have problems with the head unit hitting the new dash speaker.

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  17. #17

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    Run a wire from the back of the fuse block for permanent power (yellow wire for the new stereo harness - add an inline fuse to protect it in case you get a short by it accidentally grounding out) Disconnect the battery, take out the 2 anchor screws holding the main fuse block in and go through from the back. Tape the permanent power wire up to the wiring harness with electrical tape to keep it neat. Don't run it from the battery, it's totally unnecessary and can set you up for another electrical problem (and it'll save from trying to go through the firewall...) The dash chassis isn't laid out well enough for a modern standard single DIN head unit with speakers, there's not nearly enough space (which is why they used a shallow oval speaker - these trucks were meant to be really basic)
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  18. #18

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    I have The power wire soldered to the back of the fuse block on the Radio fuse which in bottom left on mine. The unit came with an inline fuse for the memory wire which I fused with the power wire as I want it to work without the key. The fuse I connected it to cuts power when the key is off so it won't remember any stations. That speaker in the dash sounds dam good.
    Do you have any idea exactly what wire I cold get constant power from?

  19. #19

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    There's a primary power wire from the battery in the fuse block - the fat red one that goes to #8 'tail light/clearance' fuse. This should always be live. To make sure, stick a test light on it and ground the other end to a bolt or bare metal under the dash. Should be the one.
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  20. #20

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    Thanks I'll get to it tomorrow and let you guys know. Still no clear method for installing the head unit. I have the dash bezel back in without the screws and the unit wedged at a downward angle. I might have to ask a shop about it.

  21. #21

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    I felt better after my food digested and I folded the laundry so I had a crack at it. I have a multi meter and it showed me that the red one was dead but the 3 on top from the left and the fat black on were all hot. So I soldered it to the top left one. Radio works with no key now.
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  22. #22

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    ...what about permanent power memory?
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  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    I have a multi meter and it showed me that the red one was dead but the 3 on top from the left and the fat black on were all hot...
    Hmm, I would've thought the tail light circuit would always be hot (brake lights work regardless of keys in or out, I goofed on that one!)
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  24. #24

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    Had a look at retro-styled mechless head units on ebay - they are mad cheap Are they any good? - don't know. They are a little misleading by saying they're 'digital' when they're only FM stereo but they do accept SD cards, USB and have an aux in jack on the front and come with a remote (not super useful IMO but they have them...)

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stero-F...4AAOSwLdBaBnD1
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  25. #25

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    And now something that is just plain weird - no AM, no speaker outputs, no RCA's - nada. And stupid cheap...

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Stereo-....c100005.m1851
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