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Thread: 87 Power Ram 50 Build- Adventure Ram

  1. #26



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    After you scrape and clean the head surface on the block, run a tap down the thread holes of the block to be sure there is nothing in the holes that would interfere with torqueing the head bolts. checking the top of the block with a straight edge is also a good idea to ensure a flat surface.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  2. #27

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    do you know off the top of your head what size tap it is? i'd need to buy one and the truck is in a buddy's garage so i can't check myself.

  3. #28



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    not off the top of my head - I have to look it up.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  4. #29

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    head finally back from the shop. started working on getting it all back together today.
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ID:	18495 block with arp studs and gasket ready for the head

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ID:	18496head with intake manifold bolted up, ready to drop on
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ID:	18497closeup of my mechanical pump block off plate. this and the egr plate are actually the first things I've ever fabricated, with a little help from a bud who owns a shop. had a lot of fun and think they turned out pretty well. Click image for larger version. 

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    got the head slipped on, and called it quits for a dinner break- off course I forgot to take a picture. back in the shop in a little bit to get as much done as I can this weekend.

  5. #30

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    everything on and looking pretty. however, now i am paranoid because some oil seeped out of a bolt hole while threading in one of my studs. I blew them out before hand, but just did some reading about hydrolocking. should I go back and pull the head and re-clean the holes? all of the studs went in without a problem, and are all in the same depth, judging by the height. my brain tells me that I couldn't hydrolock a stud, since torquing it will essentially pull the stud "up" instead of pushing it "down" by tightening a headbolt.

  6. #31

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    Tidy work on the block off plates. I know you are itching to get the beast back on the road. Getting close now!

  7. #32

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    quite a bit done today. head torqued, exhaust manifold back on, starting to install my Weber. went fine until I got to the throttle cable mounting using the supplied "boomerang." what am I supposed to attach to this thing? I tried the cable retainer from the old carb, and don't have nearly enough room. then I modeled it up with the old throttle cable retainer from the valve cover, but it barely works and there's no way it would hold up to any kind of driving.

    am I missing a piece? do I need to fab something up?

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  8. #33

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    this is is the original hold down I pulled from the mikuni- looks nothing like the one in the Weber instructions.

  9. #34

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    did some reading and ordered the damn bracket you need that doesn't come in the kit. another couple days spent waiting for parts... at least I can get my fuel pump all hooked up in the meantime.

  10. #35


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    I would also use the ARP stud kit for the head to block. Not that expensive and much better than the factory head bolts.

  11. #36


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    Interested in what bracket you ordered for the carb install. Was it a Weber sourced part or Mitsu factory part? Can you post a pic when you get it done? Thanks.

  12. #37

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    here's the link the the bracket that I ordered. a little spendy, but came with some other spare throttle linkage parts that i don't mind having around, especially since i already lost that tiny lynchpin once and don't want to have to find it again

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/281051844927?ul_noapp=true

    Got the girl running again saturday night, been futzing with the weber all day- it's running pretty well, except for some dieseling when I shut it off after i've been driving for more than 5-10 minutes. I'm going to order a pressure regulator tonight and put that on soon so hopefully that clears up a little bit of my problem.

    Here's the overall picture- the bracket I used is sort of visible, it mounts on the two left-hand carb mounting bolts. I'm going to go take more detailed pictures of my installs tomorrow but i've been pretty busy.

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    and some pictures of my fuel pump install using the method outlined in the 2nd gen fuel pump thread. Great method, going to look into putting some kind of enclosure over it to protect it from debris, but for commuting around town it's fine right now. Lucked out on the fuel pump wiring with a trick I read in here- splicing into the two black wires from the stock carb harness for the keyed power for the pump and the weber choke. pretty simple until I can get my oil pressure safety switch hooked up.

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ID:	18553Click image for larger version. 

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    not sure why all of my pictures come up sideways in here... anybody have a suggestion? i'm sure you're all sick of turning your computers on their sides.

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