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Thread: Spun bearing

  1. #1

    Array
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    Join Date
    06-16-2016
    Posts
    8
    Location

    San luis obispo, ca
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G63

    Spun bearing

    So...
    Few weeks ago I siezed my 4g63. Somehow I was able to fix it. If anyone has done this and you need a quick fix - look to your crank bearings, it's most likely that you have one of these has siezed and needs replacing. If you're lucky like I was you wont have to do any machining of the crankshaft if the grinding of the bearing was minimal on the shaft.

    The worse issue is that during the process of siezing the engine on the crankshaft the right balance shaft got torqued bad enough to gouge the front bs bearing, sieze
    it and consequently cause the rear bs bearing to spin.
    Now, I drove it around like this for about 30 miles to get it to shop, and it made the worst noises.

    What to do now...
    I could do a BS delete.
    Since the rear BS bearing spun out of it's casting I can't just put a new bearing in to block the oil hole. (The new bearing is loose in the engine)
    I also dont have an OEM oil pump retrofit "stub" to replace the left BS like I've read about in the BS delete procedure.

    Now for the questions -
    Can I have a shop machine a "shim" bearing to fit tightly into the block and hold my oil preasure at that rear galley.

    Is it possible to not replace the left oil pump BS with that stub and just hack off the shaft instead? Whats the difference btween that part and just a cut off BS? Weight?

    Last - is it even a good idea to delete on this truck and this engine? The manufacturers obviously put it there for a reason and I hear that it's not just for you but(t) also the vibrations on the motor.

    Thank for your help
    From,

    Indigo

  2. #2

    Array
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    06-15-2014
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    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    The stub oil pump shaft is cheap and easy to get, but make sure you get a genuine Mitsubishi shaft as most of the aftermarket ones lack the oiling journal through it and will cause premature wear on the housing. Yes you can cut off the oil pump shaft in a lathe but it will need the through journal welded up. The balance shaft oiling galleries can be sealed with JB weld (guys have done it and not reported any issues). The balance shafts are there to negate harmonic imbalance at idle. The bottom ends on these engines are pretty close in regards to balance but as you have experienced, the balance shaft bearings can fail with catastrophic consequences. Some people report little to no difference after a shaft deletion while others have had lots of vibration at different rpm points. There are plenty of 4 cylinder engines designed without balance shafts and they don't fly apart or vibrate, and there are businesses out there peddling snake oil remedies that the shaft deletions destroy gearboxes and they can cure cancer etc. The balance shafts weigh a lot and they create parasitic loss of energy through the crank. End story - if you're in a bind and can't get a replacement engine then you have nothing to lose. There are pros and cons with deleting the shafts...

    Read up on the info here on the site as it is one of the most comprehensive sources of information available on this subject.

  3. #3

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-16-2016
    Posts
    8
    Location

    San luis obispo, ca
    Vehicle

    1989 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G63
    Nothing to lose...
    Good advice and that's what made this work in the end.

    I wanted to update and say that I did undeed delete the balance shaft - removed and put JB weld in the oiling holes, seems to be working.

    At the same time I installed a silly oil pressure guage, but it works and my mechanic is much happier ��

    What did deleting it do?
    The 2.0 engine revs up so much nicer without the shaft and there's a noticable difference in low and high end power.
    As for the vibration I barely notice it except occasionally yhe the truck feels like it lurches ever so slightly at certain rpm.

    Like Geezer mentioned - get the genuine oil stub replacement for that oil pump shaft, even though I drive and feel sketched out having JB weld plugging my gallies I do have peace of mind that the oil pump isn't going to grind itself to bits.

    Thanks for your help

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