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Thread: Sash Channel, interior window scrape

  1. #1

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    Sash Channel, interior window scrape

    Can anyone tell me how to remove the interior window scrapes without making them unusable?

    What do you guys do if your window sash channel pulls away from the door like in these pics. I loosened the two screws but couldn't get it to budge.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2

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    The run channel is shot. You could try to pull it out and reinstall with 3m super weatherstrip adhesive but will most likely not hold well. It is just pressed into the channel. Roll window down and gently insert a flat blade screwdriver starting in the middle of the angeled part of the sash. Why do you wanna pull the inner scrapper? Most will fall apart when removing from age. You need to pull the outter scrapper first so the window in rolled down position has room to move toward the outter edge of door. In this position you insert a flat blade screwdriver behind the inner scrapper starting from left or right and little by little move along door and pry out. The reason you need the space from outter scrapper is because the clips that are part of the inner scrapper are pretty long and you need the clearance. I think you are one of the ones I sent some new outter scrappers to last week. If you run into trouble hit me up as I have all the other parts you might need.

    Mike
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    Mikewarme@yahoo.com

  3. #3

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    I'm not worried about the run channel yet I wanted to get that triangular piece to seal against the door skin. It has the channel for the run channel attached to it. It is held by two screws under the rubber door seal and a couple 10mm bolts down low in front of the window crank assembly.
    Seems like pressure held it new (I think it must have been curved) but IDK how it could pull away unless it has shrunk?? The run channel is old but there are no air leaks so I'm ok with it for now. I'm more interested in making the doors weatherproof.

  4. #4

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    I think you'll find they never butted up against the window frame perfectly due to the angle the glass has to slide on to drop into the door. There was no sealant AFAIK on that corner section.

  5. #5

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    You are probably right Geezer. I was hoping for a full seal. I might still find a way to seal it.

  6. #6

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    Funny thing is the doors with 1/4 glass in them has a rubberised coating on the corner filler. Maybe buy the window scraper rubber per foot and cut it to sit over the gap?

  7. #7




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    I don't see how that not sealing would make a difference - any water that might get in that way will just run out the drain holes in the bottom of the door. The glass seal is what keeps the water out of the interior, not the seal for the corner piece.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  8. #8

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    Looks like the general consensus is that you're worrying unnecessarily about the window rail corner. You could run a bead of sealant across it but it might come back to haunt you later if you need to remove the glass or guide (p.s. check the guide and it's mounting points for rust as they can come apart and cause rattles and mechanism issues)

  9. #9

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    i could sure use both sides having so much rain it fills up the door and leaks over the top on to the carpet. any ideas on how to find these seals? anyone

  10. #10

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    The doors have drains in the bottom to prevent the issue you are describing. check your drain holes.

  11. #11

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    You can get the outer window scrapes from Mike Warme. My drain issues were due to the fender wells being plugged up.

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