There's more. I installed a new flywheel, pilot bearing, clutch kit and TOB and I ended up with the very same problem !!!
The clutch would not fully dis-engage when I pushed the pedal all the way to the floor. I adjusted the cable all that I could and
it came close but would not range fully as when I depressed the pedal the clutch still remained partly engaged so the trans would grind into gear. And when I let up on the clutch the cable was so tight that it would not relax fully and engage the clutch fully. I needed more range on the fork lever.

I tried adjusting the clutch pedal height adjustment and this actually helped the cable to range better but still not enough.

After a whole lot of troubleshooting I finally figured out a perfect way to gauge exactly how the system should operate properly.

Here's how.

Look at the clutch control shaft position on the side to the transmission. See pix:

Attachment 18785Attachment 18786

(for a diagram, see:

http://vintage.mitchell1.com/PClubDa.../V2I817009.pdf )

So anyhow look at the clutch control shaft lever pictured. This is how much cable pull range that it takes to operate a 2nd gen clutch. the first pix shows a relaxed pedal with the clutch engaged and the second pix shows a depressed pedal with the clutch disengaged. Notice how the clutch control lever in the second picture needs to be pulled so far that it actually contacts the side of the bell housing ?

How to you get this much cable operation with inept aftermarket parts along with worn out specs ? Maybe keep buying different clutches and cables and trying them for fit ? Maybe shims where the cables mount ?

I had a different idea. I figured that since a clutch pedal height adjustment really helped my cable range, then maybe 'more' pedal travel might give me all of the clutch cable adjustment necessary in order to allow the clutch to fully engage and disengage.

So, I elongated the lever that connects the clutch cable to the pedal see pix: