2wd max brake upgrade options

I'm in need of some better brakes on this truck there's a 2wd Monty sport at my local jy are the front brakes worth it, if not is there any other truck I should use to do this

if it has the 2 piston calipers, then yes, they are swap out bolt-ons and will give a better bite. Otherwise, get a set of 2 piston calipers from a full size monty.

Ok full size Monty, is it mostly bolt on I want this truck to stop the stock brakes suck hard

should be - get the mounts with the calipers to be sure

ok ill be doing it, Would it be a good idea to hit up the 2wd monty sport for the master cyl or a prop valve or just a full size?

the monty master mounts different than the truck, but the monty sport should work.

Same same topic but a different angle - are the RWD and 4WD front brake rotors on gen II's the same? I'm looking into buying pads and rotors for a brake upgrade and have seen some pretty good deals on ebay, but I'm getting conflicting info...

4WD rotors are bigger. The parts database says the 2WD rotors are 14" and the 4WD rotors are 15". Neither one is actually that big, so it probably means the minimum size for the wheel it'll fit inside of.

You could probably use them if you got the calipers too. If you're going that route, just go slightly bigger to 2nd gen Montero or Montero Sport (Challenger) brakes. They're probably easier to come by.

Thanks Jeff. That's the plan - gen II hubs and rotors, Monty (Pajero) calipers. I can scavenge the parts easily enough but the idea of throwing slotted + cross drilled rotors into the upgrade for the prices I have seen on ebay is very tempting. The kits show 'for mighty max & montero' so I hope that means both use the same pad design. May go the extra step and have teflon sleeved braided hoses made up as well...

4wd rotors will not work on 2wd as far as I know.

Hi I also have a 2wd 91 MM, i found a 2wd and a 4wd 99 Montero Sport for donor I took the diff from the 4WD for the quick upgrade on rear breakers and locking diff, if I understand correctly, the brake caliper is a bolt on item for the front
but what about the whole assembly so I can use the bigger rotors? I've read the 4WD to 2WD don't bolt, but what about the 2WD MS to 2WD MM, could I swap the whole suspension and all without major modifications?

Thank you

should be able to swap spindle, hubs, rotors and calipers from one to the other, as the MS is a L200/300 chassis - MMM / Ram 50.

Thank you

I'll be getting those tomorrow,
Also I took the diff to start prep work but notice something odd, the hose line was not connected to a compresor as I researched, and putting air does not engage. It came from a 99 montero sport 4 wheel drive automatic transmission, I read that on the 2000+ they switched from locking to LSD would this be case? I did see on the dash a button that said "AT mode" am I missing something or is this just an open diff?

The hose is the vent.
That is a Mitsubishi Corporate axle.
Gear selections and carriers are some what limited.

If you had picked up a 1990 - 1992 axle it would have been the Dana 60. They have a cast iron center not steel.
You would have tons of options you can put in it.
So if you wanted an ARB you can put one in there.
Gear ratios from 3.31:1 to 7.17:1 depending on the axle.
Montero also had a Dana 44 option called the Iron Man. They are so hard to find you never will.
The Mitsubishi Corporate axle is a good axle also just limited parts.
It's a good D 50 replacement.

I think the air lockers were only available on the full size Monteros, not the sport. That should be a vent line. It should be an LSD.

Originally Posted by pennyman1

I think the air lockers were only available on the full size Monteros, not the sport. That should be a vent line. It should be an LSD.

Air lockers were optional on the 97-99 Sport. I've got the large size rear axle with locker from a 99 3.5L Sport (99 was the only year for both leaf springs and the 3.5) Lockers were even less common on the 3.0. The easiest way to tell if it's got a locker is to see if it's got an "R/D Lock" button on the left side of the dash near the gauge cluster.

When they did the facelift in 2000, they changed out to coil springs, and went to a hybrid (viscous + torsen) LSD. That's the one I want to retrofit into my 3.5L leaf axle.

The tube that elchatoloco is talking about is probably just the vent tube. Locker diffs have a banjo fitting on the actual differential housing. I can take a picture of mine if anyone is interested.

If you do end up getting a factory locker, be careful with the air. They only need something like 5-8 psi to operate. Anything more risks blowing out the diaphragm.

Hi thank you all, I did verified and it is indeed a vent, as for LSD it's not working, I've replaced the Oil and preceded to do some "8" on the parking lock with as tight a turn I can, I had read that doing this would help clear the gunk on the clutch disc, then to proceed with another oil change and add seafoam to help clean, drive a 100 miles then flush and add cheap oil, drive another hundred, flush and then add the correct type, and also add friction modifier as needed, if it fails then a new diff is an option.

go to a ford dealer and get the ford 9" friction modifier - its a trick that Reider Racing told me about - he recommends it for all locking /LSD diffs. According to him, it works the best, and he has tried all of them. I have told others to use it, and no one has said it didn't work - I have used it as well with success. The only time it did not work was with my dogkota anti-spin diff, but it uses spring loaded plates against the carrier instead of clutches. That is the worst setup ever, it would lock both axles and send the rear around on dry pavement on a hard turn if you gave it gas, and I had a 400 pound Tommy lift gate on the back of it. Forget driving in the winter, it would spin and slide right off the road in snow.

I'll get that one in a few days, so I went to the Junk yard to look at the front end ok the montero sport, I was hopping for an easy swap but then I notice that the connection to the tie rods are in located to the front of the truck. i was thinking of taking the whole thing and hooking it up to the arms . But now I'm wondering if can swap the left to rigth?

Theoretically, yes. As long as all the ball joints and tie rods are interchangeable I can't see why swapping the sides over to function the same way the original hub assemblies do wouldn't work. Only thing I'd be cautious about will be wheel diameters - the Monty brakes may require 15" minimum diameter wheels.

Some of the top trim Montero Sports actually needed 16" wheels. There's a considerable amount of detail here:

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...-brake-upgrade

It's focused on the 4x4s, but gives some good info on parts interchange. One thing they note is the difference in steering location for the different knuckles. That could also be a factor on your truck.

Are you certain you picked up an axle that is anything other than a regular open diff. Like Jeff said the lockers were up to 99. Have you looked closely at the sticker on the rear facing part of your diff? If not gently clean it off and see what it says. No reason wasting you time otherwise.

As for the larger front brake upgrade I did it last year to my 4x4 MM. Best upgrade so far. Much better clamping force. I took mine from a 95 SR.

If you are talking about swapping spindles from left to right side and vice versa no it wont work. You will throw the geometry all out of wack and have bad caster and also probably tons of bump steer.

Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu

If you are talking about swapping spindles from left to right side and vice versa no it wont work. You will throw the geometry all out of wack and have bad caster and also probably tons of bump steer.

The upper and lower ball joints have to be aligned or the steering hub would bind up. Swapping the left to right sides should not affect caster either as the hub spindles also have to be in the same pivot line as the ball joints or the steering would either load up badly or bump steer uncontrollably depending what side of the pivot line the spindle is located. The thing that will kill this idea off is if the steering hub assemblies are different in reference to the distance between the ball joints. Closer will increase camber dramatically, further will do the opposite (read as 'scary bad handling')

If Dropped has tried this out and proven it to fail then we've all learned something thanks to his investigation and saved some people time and cash.

Is there a sticky or some kind of thread regarding *Mighty Max Brake Upgrades/Swaps? I don't wanna ask a million questions - thanks in advance