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Thread: My 95 max build

  1. #51




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    that is the type of tape I was talking about. Any harness wrap properly installed will be hard to deal with if a repair is needed.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  2. #52

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    1995 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    Thanks for that. Now to try and find some place locally that carries something like harness tape or that tape

  3. #53

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    So I have found what is called splicing tape or majestic tape by 3m. 3m scotch 2228. I'm pretty sure this would work with something like the 3m scotch 33 on the ends and then wire look. Whats do you guys think?

  4. #54

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    It comes in 10ft rolls. I honestly wouldn't know how much to get.

  5. #55

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    I was able to get my harness completed and ran and everything put back together. I did have pictures on how I ran the harness but not really sure what happened to them. Sorry guys. The only real problem I had was where I drilled the hole in the firewall. It only made it difficult to remount the heater core. My hopes are that it doesn't cause any issues pinching the harness between it and the carpet/padding. I personally think it will be fine, but time will tell. I'm still currently waiting on the machine shop to complete the cleaning and honing of the block and pistons. In the meantime I have been drilling out spot welds to remove the wheel tub. My plan there is to completely remove and replace with a donor or weld in some reinforcement sheet metal to either A put in tubs or B no tubs making tires exposed to the engine bay. Both to me look nice on a lower truck with bigger wheels.

  6. #56

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    UPDATE. So ive been working on removing the fender well. I have all the spot welds drilled out and now to figure out how to get rid of that seam sealer especially where the wheel well meets the fire wall. Anyone have any ideas? My initial plan after getting the newone/salvaged one in is cut and put in some wheel tubs on both sides to clean up the engine bay a little. I'm not going to bag this truck but I do plan to drop it as far as possible. possibly 3 and 5 if clearance isn't an issue. I have 3 different idea I have found which you can see in the following pictures. All opinions are welcome.untitled.jpguntitled1.jpgI cant seem to find the 3rd photo anymore. but its was a dual trailer fender that was level to the firewall. If that makes since.

  7. #57

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    Now to determine the methods of lowering the front. drop springs and drop spindles maybe(if I can find some) any other ideas?. The rear is easy with blocks and possibly moving he spring hangers up

  8. #58



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    Drop spindles and lowering springs are the way to go up front. Out back probably a 3-4" block and removed middle leaf(about 2" drop)

  9. #59

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    Thank you. Those drop spindles are kinda pricey. Anybody have a used set for sale? Ill remove that rear spring and probably do a 3inch block. I think the extra inch of clearance would be nice to have between the spring and the ground. Is there a way to get more of a drop without removing the spring. Id like to still be able to haul stuff if necessary?

  10. #60

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    Havent posted in awhile.. quick update. Got the block back from the machine shop.. I ran into a snag.. While putting on my oil pump i dropped it and split the case. Does anyone have one laying around theyd sell? Not really wanting to spend the 120 on the dnj brand. Only one I can find.

  11. #61

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    Oh no, that is bad news. I'm not sure of how this suggestion is going to be received but - any chance it can be TIG welded? I know die cast alloy is a biatch to weld, and the risk of heat distortion could render the pump unusable but did the housing crack somewhere where it wasn't a critical section of the casting?

  12. #62

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    Unfortunately it can't. It split the case in half. So what was once 1 is now 2. I guess ill have to fork over some money on a new one. I guess it could be a good thing since I am doing a rebuild here, but I don't see something like this and the water going bad very often seeing as the way they are designed. I could see the seals starting to leak but those where going to be replaced anyways. I was just hoping someone might be able to come through with a used one for much cheaper. Thanks for the advice though. In other new I might have found a donor truck for a front clip if I can get the guy to part with it. He constantly has complaints of it not starting. His body is in rough shape though, but those parts are not what I'm interested in. Ill get some pictures posted soon along with one very important picture of an ooooopppps the machine shop made that either will either cause grief or not.

  13. #63

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    So I found a 1988 dodge d50 with the carb 2.4. Guys wants a huge proce of 2500. I have him down to 1500 but I still dont want to pay more than 1k. Bodys in good shape minus surface rust around the back window from the camper shell rubbing. He says that 1st gear is good but then half way through 2 and 3rd it falls on its face. Im thinking the carb. He stated he put a new pump. New filter and had the mitsubishi carb rebuilt. Anybody have any input??

  14. #64




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    split hoses going to box on the drivers inner fender - causes a vacuum leak and screws with the computer controlled carb.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  15. #65

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    Any thought of whether a carb off a toyota 22r would fit?

  16. #66

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    Short answer - no. Stud spacing is different and 2 of the studs are further apart at one end of the carb base. And I doubt it would be an improvement (google images on the 22R carb, I know it seems impossible but they look even more complicated than the Mikuni)

  17. #67

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    Thanks geezer. I just have one laying here and wasnt sure. Im picking up that 88 for $1500. Do you guys think thats a fair price. Bodies in great shape. Only a rip on the bench seat for the interior.

  18. #68

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    Another question. Carborated or fuel injection?

  19. #69

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    KIMG0087.jpgKIMG0088.jpgKIMG0096.jpgKIMG0101.jpgKIMG0102.jpg
    Heres a few pictures of the 88 dodge d50. I was thinking I could use my 95 mighty max for parts. My only concern would be this has a 2.0 and my Mighty Max is a 2.4. Is there much of a difference other than carbureted over fuel injection. My plan was to finish the 2.4 and maybe run the carbed intake on the 2.4 so I didn't have to worry about running the ecm and wiring harness from my mighty max. Would this be possible or should I just consider running the whole fuel injection setup? I really like the look of the carbureted setup and I'm already invested in the 2.4 motor so it wouldn't make much since for me to pull and rebuilt the 2.0 if the 2.4 will fit like a glove. Any and all input would really be great. This place is definitely full of a lot of information as I will be searching this site as well for answers.

  20. #70

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    So from some research I have done on my own I have come to the conclusion that this new truck will have a narrow block. The g63b block attached to a 5speed manual transmission is what's in it. My current truck which is a 95 has a 2.4 4g64 wide block. I still haven't figured all this wide block-narrow block stuff out, but I do know it all refers to the transmission. So with this being said it seems like I may just keep the 2.0 in the 88 and do some upgrades to the 2.0. My ideas are never set in stone and may change according to availability/reliability as I read more on the difference of these 2 motors. If any of what I have said here is untrue or I have misunderstood please let me know

  21. #71

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    Okay so this is the end, the wife has spoke. As we all know "happy wife happy life" We(she) has decided to not get the truck and just part out the 95 we have. Or just run it all to the scrap yard. So if anyone is interested in parts Id be happy to sell them to you. Id much rather just sell everything as a whole. Hell Id probably give it away for a hell of a deal with a clear title too. Hit me up anyone. As this project come to an end.

  22. #72

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    00909_aDIzIADz9WY_600x450.jpg00Q0Q_iNCzgUbOB0z_600x450.jpgJust in case somebody was wondering why I've decided to scrap the Mighty Max. I've decided to pursue a different DSM. I found this unmolested 98 eclipse gst all stock and in great shape. No sun fade, 46000 miles, Interior is perfect with no rips or tears. No leaks. Its like I found a gem and for a great price too. My mighty max will be going to a friend and he will be using it as a drift truck. I cant wait to see it completed and I will keep it posted as he supplies pictures.

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