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  1. #1

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    newbie

    Iím new to this site looking to get some ideas and a lilttle feedback. Anyways I have a 90 d50 5speed 2.4. Itís my everyday project. So far Iíve lowered it on 17 gmc Yukon Denali rims custom made straight pipe and fully rebuilt engine and tranny. Looking to tint, sound system and maybe a future bag.





  2. #2



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    Sweet looking truck so far, I like the Denalis, I used to have some on my old truck. Love the color too, thats always been one of my favorite stock colors. Tint would make the truck look a lot better IMO
    Josh
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    89 Macrocab 4g63 Turbo swapped & Bagged: Build Thread

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    shit more and more people are popping up in cali. what part are you from.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by joey_crandall View Post
    shit more and more people are popping up in cali. what part are you from.
    visalia area

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu View Post
    Sweet looking truck so far, I like the Denalis, I used to have some on my old truck. Love the color too, thats always been one of my favorite stock colors. Tint would make the truck look a lot better IMO
    thanks tints a must and will be done asap. i hate people lookin at the back of my head lol

  6. #6



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    You can laugh if you want to but there speakers sound great. For sound you can go the cheep way.. Get some of these http://www.logitech.com/en-us/speake...s/devices/5862 then you take apart the sub box. Wire in 12Vdc just behind the transformer and in front of the bridge rectifier. This will eliminate the 120V cord and the need to know what is ground on the 12Vdc side. Then plug you speaker wires into the audio input. Bam you have a self powered sub and speakers. Hell you could go with the 5.1 surround if you wanted.

    ~ is 120Vac in. CR1 and CR2 is where you would hook in 12Vdc
    Transformer. ---- Rectifier

    Last edited by camoit; 09-13-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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  7. #7

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    Screw the transformer/bridge diode circuit completely; hook the negaltov 12 vdc to the junction of CR1 & CR2 and the posiltov 12 vdc to the junction of CR4 & CR3. I would lift the connections and take the transformer and diodes right out of the circuit, if a diode shorted, it could blitz your stereo......depending on the speakers (link appears to be broken, so I do not know what they are) I would start with a 5 Amp inline fuse for protection.
    If you build a better "idiot-proof" item, someone will build a better idiot.

  8. #8



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    Add a stiffening cap across the + and - and the amp and your ears will thank you. Just because it is running on 12 vdc doesn't mean the power is clean.
    Pennyman1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumppa View Post
    Screw the transformer/bridge diode circuit completely; hook the negaltov 12 vdc to the junction of CR1 & CR2 and the posiltov 12 vdc to the junction of CR4 & CR3. I would lift the connections and take the transformer and diodes right out of the circuit, if a diode shorted, it could blitz your stereo......depending on the speakers (link appears to be broken, so I do not know what they are) I would start with a 5 Amp inline fuse for protection.
    But,, Would you agree that if you hook it to CR1 and CR2 before diode bridge it will automatically make sure you have the positive and negative go to the right place??
    No chance of backward polarization. Other wise you need to know witch is what on the board. It will also reduce any alternating current that may be present if the alternator has a bad or week diode. Helpping to clean up the power just that much more. Dmr8X2 and I have been talking about trying this for some time now.

    The link should have worked. But here is the link again.
    http://www.logitech.com/en-us/speakers-audio
    Last edited by camoit; 09-14-2011 at 07:36 PM.
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  10. #10

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    damn guys i have no clue of what your talking about lol i got a set of 10s in a box i was gonna use nothin specal for now

  11. #11



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    Sorry about that,,
    I suggested using a self powered sub and speakers from a computer. The "Logitec" ones like you would have on your PC. Then it just kind of went from there into the super technical on how to power them with a cars 12 volt DC. We are always looking to try new things that are cheep and make people say, "How in the??? But???? Those are????? Wow, I had no idea it could be done, or that you could even stick that thing in there because it's bent."
    We just look at things like the $300 we would pay for 2 good amps to run the subs and speakers. When we could get the same or more sound for under $100 with a little ingenuity. It's been a long running idea we have been tossing around. Just no one has done a radio swap in the last year or so. Some day one of us will give it a try.
    But you still have a clean little truck there....
    Last edited by camoit; 09-15-2011 at 07:31 PM.
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  12. #12

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    I have done this with the Logitec X-530 140watt Speaker system, the little 6in sub bumped pretty good, it would make the rear view mirror shake. It had a few flaws though, 1. You had to have the right speaker in the truck, because it contained the volume control and power, although you could take it apart and use the control board out of the speaker. 2. It had 3.5mm jacks because it was purpose built for 5.1 surround from a computer, but it did come with the adapter so you could have the Right and Left RCA plug in. And 3, the biggest issue, It had horrible noise interference with the stereo, I had to cut the ground from the RCA cables so it didn't interfere, even then you could still hear it, If i had A cd in when you skipped tracks it would thump every time you did. If I had the Ipod plugged in you would hear little beeps if the charger was plugged in. It could have been just because I was using a Dual XD1222 Stereo I had bought for $50 from Wal Mart, But the "Stiffening Cap" that pennyman 1 was talking about may have solved this issue, because the amp did eventually burn up, and a few months later the stereo died too.

  13. #13



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    Ya that sounds like something was wrong in the hook up. Now they have the remote control on a wire. They got smart. I'm using Z4 in my garage with a crap load of extension to spread them out. They sound better then the big speakers I had. I set the stereo to about 1/3 volume.
    Sorry Stretec90 did not mean to thread jack ya.
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  14. #14

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    I have lost too many cheapie power supplies on my desktop and it usually is the diode bridge. Better diodes cost another half penny and cut into the mfgr's profits!! Now I KNOW no one on this forum would over power a set of speakers :o, but I like the KISS principle a lot. Might be something in my Firefox setup, but I'm still getting "401...The administrator says you are not on the entry list!". Also, a five dollar meter from Harbor Freight is indispensable (and expendable).
    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    But,, Would you agree that if you hook it to CR1 and CR2 before diode bridge it will automatically make sure you have the positive and negative go to the right place??
    No chance of backward polarization. Other wise you need to know witch is what on the board. It will also reduce any alternating current that may be present if the alternator has a bad or week diode. Helpping to clean up the power just that much more. Dmr8X2 and I have been talking about trying this for some time now.

    The link should have worked. But here is the link again.
    http://www.logitech.com/en-us/speakers-audio
    If you build a better "idiot-proof" item, someone will build a better idiot.

  15. #15

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    Yes, Mr. Pennyman!!

    Whoops! I forgot to add that Mr. Pennyman's tip on the capacitor is a good one too.
    If you build a better "idiot-proof" item, someone will build a better idiot.

  16. #16

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    By the way; I have a Pioneer 40 + 40 tuner/ CD with Marine 6" weatherproof door speakers and a couple of bookshelf (10" x 14" x 8") behind the seat. I am looking to replace the bookshelf units 'cause they take up too much space. Also have a Sirius w/ Direct Connect. The shame is, they now deleted all my Electro-dance channels but one. The 60's/ 70's stuff sounds decent though.
    If you build a better "idiot-proof" item, someone will build a better idiot.

  17. #17



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    I too understand the KISS principle and the how you do that? install - been doing things like that for years. After working on coin op games for 30 + years, you wouldn't believe what the game manufacturers did to get some games to work; hacked b+w tv sets for the original Pong games, 8 track and cassette decks hacked to start and stop music, and hacked video disc players to play games like Dragon's Lair - bleeding edge when it came out in '85 till the players quit due to dust build up on the lenses. Some of this ingenuity I have used on other things to give some one of a kind results. That is also why I have a Zaxxon joystick handle for a shifter knob; if I could only find some lasers to hook up to the trigger to vaporize a-hole drivers that piss me off...
    Pennyman1
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    Sorry about that,,
    I suggested using a self powered sub and speakers from a computer. The "Logitec" ones like you would have on your PC. Then it just kind of went from there into the super technical on how to power them with a cars 12 volt DC. We are always looking to try new things that are cheep and make people say, "How in the??? But???? Those are????? Wow, I had no idea it could be done, or that you could even stick that thing in there because it's bent."
    We just look at things like the $300 we would pay for 2 good amps to run the subs and speakers. When we could get the same or more sound for under $100 with a little ingenuity. It's been a long running idea we have been tossing around. Just no one has done a radio swap in the last year or so. Some day one of us will give it a try.
    But you still have a clean little truck there....
    i like that idea ive never knew it was possible. i actually have a old set of cpu subs but i think ther alil to big to put in the truck. thanks for all the feedback guys

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