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Thread: who wants to build a race truck?

  1. #76

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    I think it's worth painting. It looks real nice once it's all together. Just tape up any holes and the top and bottom. I had my kids running around before dinner when I painted my block. Took less than an hour and maybe 5 dollars worth of high temperature paint. I went for black though. Paint the oil pan too! It also protects it from oil and such and makes it easier to keep clean.

  2. #77

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    Ha umm looking at the box i guess the address was wrong BradMPH!! I keed i keed but i can get you the link for them if you want! they are only 112 bucks on Amazon shipped. And Uncle Spence how many coats did you do?

  3. #78

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    I primed it with a high heat rust preventative primer (red I think) and then just lightly covered the block one layer at a time. I think probably the equivalent of 3 coats.

  4. #79

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    Did you paint the freeze plugs? the machine shop installed new ones after they pressure tested the block and i really dont wanna redo them when they are brand new.

  5. #80

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    If your trying to paint the block without painting the plugs just put grease on them then paint the block and wipe it off when your done.

  6. #81




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    Vaseline works too
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  7. #82

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    I painted mine. Ya they look pretty all shiny but they will rust eventually so I just painted them. I've never heard that you weren't supposed to.

  8. #83


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  9. #84

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    So question for the folks running a setup like this. I have heard a lot of praise from the same folks about ACT clutches and also about South bend clutches. And those two mixed together (pp and clutch disc). What do you guys run? Also I was reading that I need to use the flywheel with the bearing in it but it was mentioned to use the talon flywheel? I have checked both and the truck and the talon flywheel seem to be identical except the truck one has the bearing in it of course. Is there a significant reason to use the talon flywheel and have it bored for the bearing?

  10. #85

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    DSM folks not same folks*

  11. #86

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    I guess it all depends on if i wanna switch to a hydrolic clutch.

  12. #87



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    When you get headers be sure to check out what we have put together just for the MM people. Don't blow all the power on the cheep set you find on eBay. Get the good ones or even drop the big one for stainless. See link below.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...y-header/page2
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.
    http://mobilemillwright.com

  13. #88

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    Started painting the block today finally. Just gonna go with a matte black. its cheap and still looks nice. But my next big hurdle that I have been thinking about is brakes. It seems like I can't even find vented OEM rotors?? they are all solid? I have heard of the Celica brake pads but I really dont wanna change my rotors every time i do a oil change ha ha. Is there any other options to get something better that doesn't involve serious machine work? Does anything from a toyota fit with minor massaging or modification?

  14. #89

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    1985 Mitsubishi L200
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    You can swap the brake and steering hub assemblies from a Gen 2 and use twin piston calipers from a Montero. Vented discs and twin piston brakes will haul your truck up nicely. Don't know if there are slotted/drilled discs available but seeming you can get them for just about anything there has got to be an option. Add ceramic pads and braided stainless steel teflon sleeved hoses and you'll be able to stop faster than hitting a tree. A brake upgrade is on my 'to do' list as those solid rotors are not great at dissipating heat...

  15. #90

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    You can swap the brake and steering hub assemblies from a Gen 2 and use twin piston calipers from a Montero.
    I thought you could only use the Montero setup on a 4x4?

  16. #91

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    I think the info on the site says the brake calipers will swap from the Monty to Gen 2 steering hubs but the rotors on the Monty are bigger + some difference with the bearings. Someone will know where the actual post is and hopefully add a link here

  17. #92

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    I think the info on the site says the brake calipers will swap from the Monty to Gen 2 steering hubs but the rotors on the Monty are bigger + some difference with the bearings.
    That's cool I mean as long as I could get vented rotors and dual piston calipers that would be a massive improvement. Do you have to make any modifications to the gen 1 upper and lower arm to install the gen 2 steering hub?

  18. #93




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    use the 2nd gen truck rotors and the 2 piston calipers from the Montero - they will work on the truck.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  19. #94

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chyrio View Post
    ... Do you have to make any modifications to the gen 1 upper and lower arm to install the gen 2 steering hub?
    The control arms are interchangeable between Gen1 - Gen2 (and Monty Sport...?) Nut and bolt swap, no alteration to suspension geometry or travel

  20. #95

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    use the 2nd gen truck rotors and the 2 piston calipers from the Montero - they will work on the truck.
    when you say the 2nd gen rotors and montero caliper work on the truck Pennyman1, do you mean they will work on gen 1 front steering hubs? or i gotta swap over the gen 2 hubs for them to work?

  21. #96

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    Well it may not be the prettiest thing but its functional should look good in the red truck.
    Before:
    IMG_20170418_185225708 1.jpg
    After:
    IMG_20170420_174410044.jpg

  22. #97

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    'Tactical' ain't meant to be pretty. Just tough and straight to business.

  23. #98

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    An update for the project finally. still not to much going on. got two weeks off coming up though and I'm going to finish the chassis and (hopefully) get it painted. cant afford the suspension parts yet but they will come. cleaned them all up though so they are ready to install when the time comes.
    IMG_20170503_223208617.jpg
    got the rotors taken off so i can go to napa and compare them to 2nd gen rotors, I also heard that 2wd 98 tacoma hubs will fit right on to MM spindles?
    IMG_20170503_223144234.jpg
    Also started modifying the intake manifold. I have 3 and just cut up 2 so I really only have two shots at this. might take it to a shop for this part. especially since i only have a Mig welder.
    IMG_20170503_231610052.jpg
    Ran into a issue with the motor though idk if it was the machine shop or if my balance shaft is messed up but the balance shaft that isnt driven by the oil pump is really difficult to push in there and turn once its in there. I really dont wanna deal with it so i decided to go with a balance shaft delete. saves me getting the belt for it too. on the bright side if i decide the "vibrations" are too much it would be much easier to put them back in on the truck than in a eclipse or talon
    IMG_20170503_223134869.jpg

  24. #99

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    Gots most of the parts for the front suspension. All Moog performance stuff. except the KYB struts of course. Interesting thing is there are two different types of lower ball joints? they look almost the same but the clips holding the boot on are different and one came pre-installed with the little screw in the bottom and the other didn't? ah well not gonna matter when its on the truck. I'm assuming the upper ball joints I'm going to have to press out and press the new ones in? I also got a set of front calipers from a 94 Montero sport coming in tomorrow from we shall see if they fit.
    IMG_20170518_211012.jpg

  25. #100

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    I've seen slotted and cross drilled rotors for MM's on ebay with ceramic pads for pretty reasonable prices. You going for the 'stage 1' brake upgrade?

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