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Thread: who wants to build a race truck?

  1. #126

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    I have to look at Geronimo now - you have me thinking...
    Thank you kind sir! just don't wanna order the wrong part especially when they are like 30 a piece.

  2. #127

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    They are definitely different. So I found these on ebay, notice they have the right style:
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    Vs mine:
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    You can clearly see that the inner part of where the shaft goes through is longer and the outer part appears to be bigger and has a lip on it. Well that was a waste of new upper ball joints...

    guess ill just have to bite the bullet and go with these puppies http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....206997&jsn=915

  3. #128

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    Wait!!!! My dumbass never even bothered to look! there is a model number printed right on the bushing! and viola! http://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-L...gAAOSwrnNXPtsn granted these are the only ones on ebay, amazon, or any parts store website but its still way cheaper than new control arms especially considering the waste of the new ball joints.

  4. #129

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    I had a feeling they were pressed in. No mean feat getting them out but it shouldn't be that hard finding urethane bushes to do the job. Does the Monty sport us the same control arms the mighty max? Might take some lateral thinking to get a match. I'll be in the market for a full front end rebuild so I'll need to do research...

  5. #130

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    I had a feeling they were pressed in. No mean feat getting them out but it shouldn't be that hard finding urethane bushes to do the job. Does the Monty sport us the same control arms the mighty max? Might take some lateral thinking to get a match. I'll be in the market for a full front end rebuild so I'll need to do research...
    Well according to my research the bushings I found are for a l200 but man they are hard to find. And I can't find any from a reputable source anywhere on the internet. Honestly I would just buy the whole control arm assembly with new ball joints. Which I would have done if i didn't already buy the new ball joints and pressed them in. Be sure to upgrade to those dual caliper pistons geezer101!

  6. #131

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chyrio View Post
    Well according to my research the bushings I found are for a l200 but man they are hard to find. And I can't find any from a reputable source anywhere on the internet. Honestly I would just buy the whole control arm assembly with new ball joints. Which I would have done if i didn't already buy the new ball joints and pressed them in. Be sure to upgrade to those dual caliper pistons geezer101!
    I can get pressed in urethane bushes here but it'll cost me $$$. We have 2 companies that make them - Whiteline and Nolathane. But they ain't cheap so I'm doing the cross reference thing, There are rubber bushes sourced from Thailand for the L200, Strada and Animal but I'd still prefer the upgrade. And as for brakes, well I'd LOVE to get the twin pistons but I'm not looking forward to buying new wheels to clear them unless I come across a bargain set. I have a new pair of hell lowered springs and a cut set from my donor wreck so at least I have that covered.

  7. #132

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    yeah I'm already having to take into consideration the fact that I still wont have wheels on it when the front is together. I'm going to have to buy some cheap steelies or something to roll it around.

  8. #133



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    I found just the bushings online, I believe rock auto maybe. But I think I had to look at an earlier year or maybe it was 4x4 to find the right bushings. Mine look just like your stock arms.

    The shafts/bushings are a pain to press out/in.
    Josh
    09 BMW 335i E92 Twin turbo
    89 Macrocab 4g63 Turbo swapped & Bagged: Build Thread

  9. #134

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    I looked all over the place droppedmitsu but I already ordered the ones from spain so we shall see... have any of you guys relocated the thermostat to the front? I was looking into it and it seems like there is a couple ways to do it but none of them really give the best guide. I was also reading about how you need to drill another hole in the head but most of the forums I have found related, all the pictures are broken. But another note I was working on my Miata the other day and the coolant neck for the miata is very similar to what you would need I would think, has anyone tried this?
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  10. #135

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    Got some parts of the chassis done today and hooked the e-brake back up.
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    I'm not sure how you're supposed to align the crossmember for the tranny but I just measured from one piece of the chassis to the other and divided that in half to find the center and aligned the crossmember as close as I could get it. Also couldn't find the torque specs for the crossmember so I just went with 50 ft-lbs on the 12 bolts.

    Does anyone know what this piece supports? I know it came off the chassis somewhere but I honestly cannot remember where it goes.
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    Also by the end of this I think my whole fridge is gonna be Rock-Auto magnets
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  11. #136

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    Got the old bushings out cause the new ones finally arrived from Portugal!
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    And right in the freezer they went...
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    Once the bushings are installed the front suspension can go back together finally...

    Had the toughest time finding a FWD Turbo 6 bolt flywheel but finally found one in Denver so I had my buddy pick it up and ship it my way.
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    Also got a bunch of a bunch of parts on order and they should be trickling in here soon. Progress is being made hopefully the project will start picking up pace as I keep putting stuff back together!

  12. #137

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chyrio View Post
    Does anyone know what this piece supports? I know it came off the chassis somewhere but I honestly cannot remember where it goes.
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    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...6808#post56808

    btw, nice work on the frame!

  13. #138

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    I didn't mean to double post Geezer but I wasn't getting an answer on my thread here and I know the general maintenance area gets more love But man these bushings are a pain next time I will definitely just buy the control arm preassembled. the bushings are kinda crooked that I initially pressed in I hope they will settle
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    but I think my idea for pressing the other bushing in turned out pretty good
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    There was some hiccups though
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    this bastard was rusted on there... was not fun getting it off, I guess ill keep a eye on this control arm for a while and replace it if SHTF again.
    On the bright side! more parts!
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  14. #139

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    O.k. with double posting. I saw the other post first but I wasn't able to find it on the second lap of the site lol. I figured if I added a link you would get an answer one way or another. Did my description make sense/help you? Is all that matters. p.s. if that bush doesn't go in properly it will wear out prematurely and fail = WOTAM. It's in these circumstances I would take it into a shop and get them to press it all together (which I have done in the past)

  15. #140

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    O.k. with double posting. Did my description make sense/help you? Is all that matters. p.s. if that bush doesn't go in properly it will wear out prematurely and fail = WOTAM. It's in these circumstances I would take it into a shop and get them to press it all together (which I have done in the past)
    kinda. I still cant figure out exactly where its supposed to go. I went and tried placing it in a couple different locations but ill figure it out. I'm not sure what you mean by "trailing edge of the frame" and which wheel well? left or right? But thank you for trying to give me a explanation!

    As far as those bushings go they will just have to do for now. gonna have to learn my lesson the hard way and just buy the whole control arm assembly down the road when they do. I'm not about to take everything apart again and spend all night trying to get them to seat in there. Worst case it should still be quite a bit of road time before they completely fail. But on the bright side, the chassis has 80% of a front suspension and fuel lines again!
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    (sorry for the dark pic)
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  16. #141

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    Sorry about the ill communication. The deflector/channel/thingy goes on the underside of the frame in the front wheel well (where it slopes away from the control arms. You should be able to see a threaded hole in the frame directly under the bolts for the steering idler arm mount. The other end bolts to the inside of the frame further down.

    I wish I had the opportunity to get my frame and suspension assemblies looking as good as yours Chyrio. Maybe it'll inspire me to keep my truck off the road for even longer

  17. #142



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    That piece goes on the under side of the frame(drivers side) right where it slopes down behind the control arm there where the fuel/brake lines are, you can see the spot in the last pi that's really dark.
    Josh
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  18. #143

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    What does everyone think of the Jay racing thermostat relocation kit for the 4g63? I heard there are some clearance issues, but whats it interfering with? I don't have AC or Power Steering nor do I want them so will it clear? or is it a issue with the timing components?

  19. #144

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    Made some more progress today on the truck.
    First of all my buddy and I decided to replace the rocker panels if we can and just patch the floor where it needs it. Figure that's the easiest way to repair most of the rust. I'm gonna grab them from here https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuse...subishi-Mighty Max-Base-L4-2.0- Liter-GAS
    We removed those pieces that support the cab from the passenger and driver side footwell and boy am I glad I did see for your self
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    Probably going to make some kind of sturdier mount and either add some drain holes of some kind or get rid of the bowl design completely.

    Next up I started piecing together the steering and realized I forgot to order a ball joint so that's going to have to wait a little while longer unfortunately
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    The other day I went to my buddies shop and replaced the carrier bearing on the driveshaft. So happy I had the driveshaft out of the truck and already taken apart for that.
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    I am assuming there is not a specific way the fork on the bearing side needs to go back on? I forgot to mark It before I took it off
    Glad I decided to replace it though this thing was shot
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    Still gotta paint the driveshaft then I'll be installing my brand new u-joints

    Next up I started working out the tranny mount bushing using the common one for the 75 Colt I think it was? its this one https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...=1080223&jsn=4
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    They are very similar but as you can see in the picture there are some minor differences notably the factory MM one is a 1/16 of a inch longer and the Colt one is about a half a inch taller. Also obviously the Colt one is no simple bolt on for the km132. So here is my solution. Its just tacked together for the moment but I think its as good as I'm going to get short of designing a whole new mount.
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    All I did was measure the distance from the table to the top of the MM mount and then cut the Colt mount so the MM flange would sit at the same height and I tried to get the angle of the mount close to factory. Worst case, I bought two of those Colt mounts so if the first design fails I have a spare.

    Also got the flywheel I had to scour the freaking internet to find! FWD Turbo 6-bolt DSM flywheel is a tough one. But it works!

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    Once I get the pilot bearing and the clutch surface done it will be on the truck with these over engineered bolts ARP has
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    And to finish off the night, Finally moved the skateboard I have supporting the truck to the engine support beam so I can paint the part I missed and finally finish the suspension and sway bar
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    But to finish off the night an few more questions:
    1. I believe this is the neutral safety switch right?
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    and
    2. Last call on opinions about the Jay racing thermostat relocation kit in my previous post before I just add it to my list of to do's

    Thanks for keeping up with me those who are actually reading this!

  20. #145

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    O and I forgot! Thank you Geezer and DroppedMitsu, I figured out where that piece goes!

  21. #146

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chyrio View Post
    1. I believe this is the neutral safety switch right?
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    You have been reading about this thing all over the site - it's THAT reversing light switch. You know, with the ball bearing has got everyone clawing their eyeballs out in frustration. Please say you haven't 'dropped the ball' so to speak?

    *oh, and you're welcome. If it wasn't for the fact that my truck is still up on stands I wouldn't have known where this deflector channel thingy was.

  22. #147

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    You have been reading about this thing all over the site - it's THAT reversing light switch. You know, with the ball bearing has got everyone clawing their eyeballs out in frustration. Please say you haven't 'dropped the ball' so to speak?

    *oh, and you're welcome. If it wasn't for the fact that my truck is still up on stands I wouldn't have known where this deflector channel thingy was.
    I know I have the ball thing somewhere I remember putting it in one of my little bolt box things. But j want to replace the switch because the wires are messed up.

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