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Thread: who wants to build a race truck?

  1. #101

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    right now I'm looking at the factory hubs, 2nd gen MM rotors, 94 Montero Sport calipers, and probably ceramic pads for those calipers. Going to try to get stainless brake lines too. in my experience unless you really spend the money and get the good properly made slotted or drilled rotors its not worth the money or the risk.

  2. #102

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    And so it begins....
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  3. #103

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    Have you seen those freaky pictures of Russian scientists standing over autopsy benches with some weird creature sprawled out over them? Wiring can be daunting and that looks like a whole lot of work. You should be able to simplify most of this down into a single loom for the EMS and the rest for the ancillaries.
    Getting this right is one of the more rewarding tasks

  4. #104


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    I had my own experience....

    eliminated the distributor, wired in an eclipse dual coil, and turbo eclipse throttlebody/isc/etc.. to go with a AEM ECU, for an eclipse...they don't make one for our truck but guess what, the ecu pinouts are the same I just had to add the wires for the dual coil and move the others to the throttle body connectors... put in a ton of research before raiding the parts yard.


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  5. #105

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    Hmm well that's pretty cool LSR Mike gotta tuck them wires though bruh ha ha. I think i only need the ecm harness and the middle one. I'm pretty sure that the harness towards the wall goes to the taillights and fuel pump, but I'm gonna wire my fuel pump the old fashion way with a relay straight to the battery. the middle one has a fuse box looking thing wired into it but all the other wires appear to be for the headlights, turn signals, and horns. I'm thinking the relays might be the turn signal relays and stuff i need to label everything. I know I'm just gonna use the factory harness for the headlights, taillights and everything else so I'm gonna have to cut that one up too.

  6. #106

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    And yet another useful purpose of a billiard table.
    With a good diagram of what you have and then a decent vision of what you want to achieve wiring is a doable task.

  7. #107

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    Anybody got a lead on stainless brake lines? also should I run the montero brake booster with these calipers?

  8. #108

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    Also a few updates, started painting the chassis. going with two coats of Rustoleum Primer and three coats of Rustoleum Professional Enamel. still gotta clean some parts of the chassis with a toothbrush to ensure a good adhesion though.
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    Also de-wrapped the engine management harness from the talon. its a harness from a 90 talon I found out, hopefully that doesn't cause to many problems cause my engine is from a 91 talon.
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    Also built one of the hubs sorta (haven't packed the bearings yet) so i could see how the 94 Montero hubs would line up and looks like the modifications are going to be minimal.
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  9. #109

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Spence View Post
    With a good diagram of what you have and then a decent vision of what you want to achieve wiring is a doable task.
    And yeah Uncle Spence I am using the diagram from Projectzrog which made a lot more sense when i realized i was looking at the ecu connectors the wrong way ha ha.
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  10. #110

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    Nice work Chyrio. Damn, now I have to fork out for bigger wheels if I want to ditch the garbage brakes on my first gen. And my brakes are trash too...they need replacing

  11. #111

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    Yet again its been slow progress cause the money dried up but some progress has finally been made.
    First of all I finally got the front of the chassis sanded down and began painting, got the second coat on tonight before it started raining.
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    Going with two coats of primer and three coats of rustoleum professional enamel. hopefully it will hold up for a while.

    Also got the clutch and the pressure plate in but they didn't do what I asked them too!
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    I told them specifically what kind of spline the disc needs to be converted to and they didn't convert it!
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    But after a quick chat on the phone they are gonna send me the right one and return the one they sent me. Nice customer service ill give them that.

    Also got the bearings to block off the oil holes for the balance shaft delete installed. My friend broke my torque wrench otherwise I would already have the front cover back together. Ordered a new wrench today.
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    Picked these up for 40 bucks after I realized that the injectors that I have are for a N/A not a turbo.
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    Also got the tranny moved out of the corner and took the inspection plate off. I am no tranny expert but I think the synchros look pretty good. I am still going to have the tranny inspected before I install it. would suck to have that be the first thing wrong ha ha.
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    also am going to snag one of these: http://www.tuffpans.com/

  12. #112



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    The tuffpans are currently unavailable - he may have them sometime in the future, as there has been people, me included, asking about them to buy.
    Pennyman1
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  13. #113

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    The tuffpans are currently unavailable - he may have them sometime in the future, as there has been people, me included, asking about them to buy.
    darn. I'll ask him but looks like I might need to have one made then

  14. #114

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    Does it really need to be made from 1/2" thick billet alloy? Surely a sheet of 1/4" steel plate will be more than rigid enough to to hold the trans case together and prevent flexing. Just do away with the drain plug to make fabrication easier and use HT steel bolts for sump bolts. The tuff pan is nice and everything but it is an expensive bit of metal. Anything would be an improvement over the factory pressed steel sump plate.

  15. #115


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    If you want to use 5th gear, you need to keep the case from flexing. I know, I lost my tranny at Bonneville on my second pass of the Week and had to put it on the trailer, nothing but 4 gear was left(straight Thru). i put on the Tuff Pan( after a complete Gear Replacement/Rebuild). never a problem thereafter.
    Here are the pix of the unit and installation. something that can be done if you are handy enough.

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  16. #116

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    Got some goodies today:

    Finally got a new torque wrench so I can put the bottom end of the engine back together. Also bonus it was a set with a breaker bar! Now I can stop breaking ratcheting wrenches with conduit ha ha.
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    Also they got it right!! Southbend was very helpful with fixing their mistake and getting me the clutch I needed and I didn't have to ship the old one back or anything, they had UPS come pick it up! 10/10 would recommend them!
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  17. #117

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    Is there a reason you can't use a turbo flywheel and pressure plate with us setup? Is the tranny to narrow?

  18. #118

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    clutch

    i have a 1979 d50 2.0 with a 4 speed. i currently have it out to replace it with a 5 speed from a newer first gen (1983 i think) but the shaft is bigger so i need to change the flywheel also. any idea on that part number? tried ordering one already and would not even fit in the tranny bellhousing. so now im kinda forced to try the junk yard again but time is a factor since its in the shop. thanks

  19. #119

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    You need to find a 5 speed from a 2.0 truck and it will go straight together. It will save you headaches. The 4G52 engines were all 'narrow block' engines.

  20. #120

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    So question, while I was putting the suspension back together I realized that I forgot to buy the upper control arm bushings and mine are cracked but something doesn't looks right with the parts on rock auto. So mine look like these:
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    But the rock auto parts look like this:
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    Obviously the bushing design is different. Is the new one just a improved design that will still fit in the factory control arm or do I need to buy the whole control arm with the bushings pre installed? (would prefer not to do this because I already pressed the new ball joints into the upper control arm)

  21. #121

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    It might be a stock photo? Doesn't look like a D-50/MM bush set up. Every listing on ebay uses the same/similar image.

  22. #122

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    It might be a stock photo? Doesn't look like a D-50/MM bush set up. Every listing on ebay uses the same/similar image.
    But every single manufacturer looks exactly the same with the caps instead of the bolts on the end of them? However if you look at the brand new control arm from any manufacturer, they all have the older style like mine? but even if you go to Moog's site directly, the "cap style" for my model year. if you go to the second gens though, it shows the whole control arm with the same style bushing as the ones I have but obviously its much more expensive to buy the whole assemble and it comes with another new ball joint.

  23. #123



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    the caps screw into the arms - they are all like that for the replacements - that is the same ones I used on Geronimo and he is an 1980. The old bushings unscrew out of the arms so you can remove the shafts.
    Last edited by pennyman1; 07-30-2017 at 05:22 PM.
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  24. #124

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    the caps screw into the arms - they are all like that for the replacements - that is the same ones I used on Geronimo and he is an 1980. The old bushings unscrew out of the arms so you can remove the shafts.
    So what youre saying pennyman1 is that these old bushings are supposed to unthread out of the control arm? that's really funky?
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  25. #125



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    I have to look at Geronimo now - you have me thinking...
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