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Thread: who wants to build a race truck?

  1. #151

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    O and Geezer to answer your question. The heater box has a gap about a inch and a half from the firewall to allow that sound deadening blanket to fit properly so I made my new piece about a inch deeper than the original firewall. I might need to make some mounts for the heater core but it shouldn't be to much of a issue. And I could have moved everything forward but I didn't want to make custom engine mounts, tranny, and extend the driveshaft. Last time I had the block on the chassis I put the head on to test and I'm not going to lie there was like a quarter of a inch of room so hopefully what I just did will give it enough room to fit even if its a little tight.

  2. #152

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    Good luck with it - no sarcasm intended at all. I was a little concerned that you'd go through this (awesome) build and get to part where you drop the engine in, and...clunk. It would be an insta-rage moment if it fouled somewhere. I thought I'd throw this somewhere -

    https://blog.1aauto.com/tag/ram-50/

    This is a very relevant blog to building a truck and although this guy hasn't followed more linear methods in his build, his tale relates to a lot of members here and their own builds, A good read indeed...

  3. #153

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    So its been a while since I updated the thread but I have been busy with other things unfortunately. But I ordered new rocker panels from parts.com today hopefully they will be here soon. I also got leads on 2g steering knuckles so I can run the Montero calipers and while I was out looking at the donor truck I found the wheels I want!!! I couldn't believe it I couldn't find these anywhere and there was a set sitting in the back of this 87 mighty max! ok so they aren't the exact ones I want like in this picture (not sure whos truck this is but I know they are on here.)
    10808764_1508810479410078_758098164_n.jpg
    But they are as close as I can get in the USA without spending a fortune. They still look good on the truck though. the center hole is a little to small to clear the little knubs on the hub. Would it be better to modify the hub or the wheel?
    IMG_20170914_205908.jpg

  4. #154

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    If you knew a machine shop with a big enough lathe, they could mill it out to size in no time. I have seen some nasty backyard wheel butchery to make the centric shoulders fit and I wouldn't advise it. Taking a grinder to the wheel hubs has been done and it may be 'dubious' to grind off the tabs, it works. Not sure about the axle ends on the rear though. These wheels will look awesome refinished. A big clean, hit them with paint stripper, polish them up, spray them black and then take the paint of the raised faces on the wheels. Lot of work but anything worthwhile is never easy.

  5. #155

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    But would wouldn't just grind the little "centric shoulders" off the hub to make it all flat? I was thinking I could just take a note of where they meet the wheel and just sand down little grooves in the wheel so it seats really nice too.

  6. #156

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chyrio View Post
    But would wouldn't just grind the little "centric shoulders" off the hub to make it all flat? I was thinking I could just take a note of where they meet the wheel and just sand down little grooves in the wheel so it seats really nice too.
    Most guys will take an angle grinder to the hub as it's fast. Not exactly an ideal method as the centric hub bears the lateral load on the wheel as opposed to the wheel studs doing that (I know that if anyone made a modification to a rim like that and got busted here in Aust the vehicle would be defected and sent off the road but the cop would have to really know what to look for) You could grind recesses into the wheel. It would be a better way than trying to grind the shoulder out of the centre of the rim to clear the hub and be less likely to affect the rims' structural integrity.

  7. #157




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    I saw on a Facebook post where someone used a router with a square bit and cut the wheel to clear the tabs - not something I would do, but it sounds interesting...
    Pennyman1
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  8. #158

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    You still have to figure out what to do for the rear axle - the rims will need clearance all round for the centre hub shoulder on the axle ends.

  9. #159

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    Sorry for the absence gentleman I had to finish up some other projects before winter hit just havent had the time to post up whats been going on.

    So first I got the turbo oil pan cleaned up and painted (dont have a pic of it painted yet)
    IMG_20170930_1619183.jpg
    I started messing with the steering and painting stuff
    IMG_20171012_1857161.jpg
    IMG_20170930_1619365.jpg

    I dont remember if i already mentioned this but I started mocking up how I am going to extend the throw-out bearing 1/4 of a inch
    IMG_20170829_205126.jpg

    Next i started on the body work which has so far been a long process...
    First my friend Travis and i started by making a support beam for the cab so when i took the rocker panel out it wouldnt warp the body.
    IMG_20170930_1619073.jpg
    IMG_20170930_1951120.jpg
    IMG_20170930_1621491.jpg
    I bought some corroseal which seemed to work pretty well cleaning up the rust.
    IMG_20171012_1857096.jpg
    IMG_20171012_1849195.jpg

    We started working on the rocker panel and well... we did what we could its not going to come out perfect but It will not be holy or rusty. more to come on this...
    IMG_20171012_1857356.jpg

    I came up with a idea of how I want to remake the rusted out front cab body mount things. Idk who's idea at Mitsubishi it was to slap three pieces of sheet metal in literally a small dish shape together and call that good. So i am having some 3/4" steel pieces made to create a "no cup or sandwiched sheet metal" design. They should be here on Monday but I still needed to cut out the floor to get rid of a lot of the rust and then we made a piece to fill it in which is made of pretty strong sheet metal.
    IMG_20171019_1849210.jpg
    IMG_20171019_1915095.jpg

    To be honest I am running out of time, I need to get this cab back together and on the truck. I'm just going to do what I need to to make it "acceptable." when I get back to the states I am just going to find a good clean truck and swap cabs.

  10. #160

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    You are putting in a lot of work for a cab that you ultimately want to ditch. I'm not being critical but most guys would bang a heap of fibreglass on it and call it done. It looks like the tin worm has made a 3 course meal out of your truck. It will be super solid when you're done. Good work Chyrio

  11. #161

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    It looks like the tin worm has made a 3 course meal out of your truck.
    Ha you should see the other one I just bought for some interior parts i needed in it. the door frame where it meets the front of the rocker panel on the drivers side is literally falling into the rocker panel, and the front and rear body mounts are not even supporting the body anymore its just laying on the frame. but... I drive it around anyways cause its a fun little truck to beat on ha ha. I cant figure out what this damn thing is called though.
    Attachment 19715

    The truck starts better with a manual choke going to that flapper thing in the beginning of the intake, but then runs like shit cause the manual choke in the truck is busted and wont close all the way. and with this vacuum solenoid in there the truck runs great when its warmed up but has trouble starting every cold start.

  12. #162

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    That link isn't working. The choke cable probably needs adjusting. You could try to disconnect the cable end to the choke, pull the choke lever in and then reconnect the choke. It should give you more (if not all) of the choke control again. Manual choke is pretty uncommon. I would check the throttle stops on the carb to make sure they are set correctly and then check the ignition timing. Some guys make the mistake of trying to adjust base idle with the distributor and then it either starts rough or doesn't run right. Also might be a clogged up jet. You can try purging the carb by cupping your hand over the carb throats while it's running and near-stalling it. Sometimes that is enough to pull debris out of the jets.

  13. #163

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    sorry here is the picture i posted
    IMG_20171022_1155411.jpg

    And i mean the truck runs great (accept a bad head gasket) if you hold your foot down on the gas a little when you start it for the first 30 seconds or so then let off and it runs amazing the entire time until you cold start it again. engine fires right up after being off for up to a hour or so. I'll have to find a guide on adjusting these carbs. never had a carbed vehicle before to be honest well not as my daily.

  14. #164

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    the other option is i know a guy who has a 4g61 he is selling for like 50 bucks but i would have to find a harness (I only have a N/A harness to spare) a valve cover, exhaust manifold, injectors, turbo, and some sensors. O and a dsm flywheel. If i could piece it together for cheap I would just throw it in there. and call it good. but this truck really isnt worth the effort (talking about the white one)

  15. #165

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    Is the white truck running...a Solex carb? Can't say I have ever seen that before. It is a vac actuator but what was it hooked up to? The primary or secondary throttle butterfly?

  16. #166




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    I found an 86 ram 50 in a jy with a 79-80 2.6 in it with a solex on it - carb was junk
    Pennyman1
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  17. #167

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    decided to say screw it to the white truck and parked it until i pull the parts I need and focus on my other project, the alcan miata. But progress on the red truck! So we started welding stuff back in and making pieces to fill the holes while trying to maintain the shape of the rocker panels. Its never going to look 100% again without some serious work but I am going to do what I can to make it look decent again. I honestly lost track of the welding and what we did when so here is a bunch of random pictures:
    IMG_20171024_2256273.jpg
    IMG_20171024_2256333.jpg
    IMG_20171024_2256395.jpg
    IMG_20171024_2256519.jpg
    IMG_20171024_2256582.jpg
    IMG_20171026_1825421.jpgIMG_20171026_1909517.jpg

    And i had a buddy make me this plate. I asked for 1/2" aluminum stock but he only had 1/4". Figure its still much stronger than the factory plate. What do you guys think?
    IMG_20171026_2032058.jpg

  18. #168


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    Use Two 1/4 inch plates....or don't use 5th gear...

  19. #169




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    Or weld strips of 1/4 inch aluminum across the plate - not enough meat there with the flat plate.
    Pennyman1
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  20. #170

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    The 1/4" alu sheet plate won't be rigid enough to prevent the gearbox case from warping (this is what causes blown gears - especially 5th as Mike pointed out). It really needs to made from a chunk of billet alloy not less than 1/2" thick to brace the gearbox. I doubt welding strips to the 1/4" will prevent torsional warping though. On my to-do list...

  21. #171




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    I saw on a Facebook page that the tuffpans will be made again soon - not sure when soon will be though - LSR Mike, you know the maker of the pans - any timeline?
    Pennyman1
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  22. #172

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    If i can get the guy to make another one of those tuff pan kits it would be amazing. and yeah I was a little disappointed when he dropped the 1/4" plate off but it was free out of the kindness of his heart so I couldn't down the guy.

  23. #173

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    I just sent a comment to tuff pans using their contact us option inquiring about continued production of the tuff-pan kit. I will let you guys know what they say

  24. #174




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    Maybe the forum needs to put together a group buy to convince him to make them again. Guaranteed sales helps change people's minds
    Pennyman1
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  25. #175

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    If I'm looking at this right, the plate is 0.75" (19.05mm) thick. If you need a chunk of 6061-T651 alu at approx 8.5" x 8.5" you could get a piece under $50 USD and then either DIY it or get a machine shop to mill the holes. I probably wouldn't even bother with a drain plug hole (if I need to drain the oil I'd just drop the plate). I would tend to use hex key bolts and recess them into the plate to eliminate the risk of the bolt heads being mashed if you have a moment where ground clearance isn't your friend (unsure if this would undermine the plates ability to remain rigid) or use button head bolts. Yeah, it won't be as pretty as the tuff pan but nothing a hit of paint won't hide. You could theoretically pull off a DIY pan for under $70 with all the hardware depending if you can drill and finish it in house.

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