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Thread: who wants to build a race truck?

  1. #51

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    Are there performance bearing kits for the km132 in our trucks? I was reading about the starion km132 kits but i read something about some of the bearings beings a different inner diameter.

  2. #52

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    Also, I'm trying to understand DroppedMitsu's build guide but his pictures are kinda fuzzy from what i can see its done something like this diagram i made but where does the oil feed to the turbo from? I see the oil return going into the pan but does the turbo get its oil from the pan as well?Untitled.png

  3. #53



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    You can grab oil from the port where the oil pressure gauge goes. The drain should never be less the 45 deg if you can help it. Any oil sitting in the return will cook in the turbo.
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  4. #54



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    The turbo gets its oil from the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side. You'll have too much oil pressure and need to run a restrictor if you use a port on the oil filter housing.

  5. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu View Post
    The turbo gets its oil from the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side. You'll have too much oil pressure and need to run a restrictor if you use a port on the oil filter housing.
    So this is where you got the feed for the turbo DroppedMitsu?
    2011-06-12_12-20-43_867.jpg

  6. #56



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    Yes, that is the OEM turbo feed location.

  7. #57

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    Quote Originally Posted by DroppedMitsu View Post
    Yes, that is the OEM turbo feed location.
    as far as the coolant locations i know the feed comes from a modified coolant pipe off the water pump. and returns to the back of the head where the coolant return is, i saw that there is a nipple looking thing with the hole blocked off. was this where you drilled out the hole you where talking about?

    IMG_20161012_190909028.jpg

  8. #58



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    Yeah thats where my return goes. I ended up drilling that spout out and tapping it for an AN-pipe thread fitting and im running all braided hose and an fittings for all my oil and coolant lines.

  9. #59

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    Sorry for the delay with the project! Money dried up for a little bit. Engine is awaiting going to the machine shop which is waiting on the money for their hard work ha ha. Gonna go with factory 2g pistons on the 1g rods and run the 14b turbo to start, might switch over to a 16g if i have the cash down the line. Wifes cooper is in the garage awaiting a tie rod and a ball joint to come in so the truck is sitting out in the cold. good thing i taped the window up that is broken and falls down ha ha. Today i finally started tearing apart the beat up door cards. planning on buying new particle board and possibly doing a new design or just redoing the factory design with new material.

    IMG_20161107_174049559.jpg

  10. #60

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    More updates! finally got the truck in the garage after getting all my other mini projects completed. and got the block and head in so i can start figuring out how much i need to mod the firewall. turns out its going to be about 2.5 to 3" just like stated in other threads. the heater sits right behind the spot i need to move out so i might look into relocating it to the passenger foot well if i cant space it out enough to fit in the factory location. but progress.... Got the interior ripped apart and ragedy old dash pulled out. i imagine finding another one thats not all torn up is going to be close to impossible so i might just make some kind of custom dash that is built off the non removable dash frame.
    IMG_20170126_185024507.jpgIMG_20170127_160834189.jpgIMG_20170127_205833207.jpgIMG_20170127_205840214.jpg

  11. #61


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    Coming along nicely. Had a coworker recently ask if I knew anyone interested in an 83 ram 50 turbo diesel 4x4. I woulda bought it if I knew about it a lot sooner. Would have had my own first gen.

  12. #62

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    body lift be looking good ha ha. im thinking about hanging the cab from the ceiling with some rope to mod the firewall and weld in new floorboards. would be alot easier having it like 3-4' off the ground. plus i could mount the engine and tranny on the chassis a hell of alot easier.
    IMG_20170130_202823272.jpg

  13. #63

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    How bad was the original dash pad? If it had a couple of big splits in it but was still complete you could try filling the cracks with expanda-foam, sanding it back and wrapping it with vinyl. Don't try wrapping it with furniture foam, it will look like crap...

  14. #64



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    Geezer, you have any pictures of your dash wrapped in furniture foam? lol Just got a funny feeling you tried it once with that info you gave.

  15. #65

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    Well, what actually happened was my lecturer did this in shop during a course I did way back (motor and marine trimming). A thin layer of furniture foam was spray glued to the dash - end result was the foam dented and remained deformed due to the glue. I ripped it out and started again. I also showed him how to factory stitch leather sports wheels with the same technique companies like MOMO use (he had a contract with Holdens' HSV division and was stitching them completely by hand - not fun) I wish I had a picture of the retrimmed dash but I only got photos of the door cards and seats. I really miss my Lancer fastback...

  16. #66

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    So i looked into the dash and i suppose its not to bad. what do you think?
    IMG_20170204_232958742.jpgIMG_20170204_233005805.jpgIMG_20170204_233028049.jpgIMG_20170204_233040837.jpg
    Also... body lift got a little higher ha ha.
    IMG_20170204_232746241.jpgIMG_20170204_232759629.jpg

  17. #67

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    Are you going to recolor the dash? The worst crack is obviously the one on the corner of the instrument surround. I'd trim off the edges where it has split and curled up, fill it with expandafoam, then glue in an offcut of vinyl to fill the void. Hit it with vinyl color spray and fingers crossed the repair will be discrete. If you're going to recolor it make sure it is super clean. Scrub it with sugar soap and hit it with a pressure cleaner (sounds sketchy but as long as you use a wide fan setting on the nozzle and don't try to blow holes through it, the new color will bite into the dash padding permanently and not flake off like paint - I did this myself and you'd be amazed at what oil and gunk is embedded in a dash...) The smaller cracks you might be able to get away with filling it with RTV and wiping it smooth with a finger.

  18. #68

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    Going to look into the dash another day. for now its all about grinding and cutting. Started grinding at the floorboards and most of the floor seems to be pretty salvageable.
    IMG_20170206_204943920.jpgIMG_20170206_205658608.jpg
    Also cut the hole for the firewall extension. debating about, how exactly I'm going to do it but for now I'm planning on taking the piece i cut out and making little extensions and welding it back in place. or just get some sheet metal and making a rounded cover to weld into place. unfortunately it seems there was no way to keep the factory mounts for the heater. looks like I'm going to have to find a alternative I'm sure summit or moroco make something for like old hot rods that's a "universal heater" kind of thing.
    IMG_20170206_204932454.jpg
    also cool shot my friend made while i was cutting.
    Attach4625_20170206_203650.jpg

  19. #69

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    well started cutting stuff out and the passenger side looked better than i thought but the drivers side is rough. looks like im going to have to cut and fill a lot of holes. the rust has eaten through into the cab where the front body mount is and has started to eat through to under the body where the pinch weld is. I hope I can find a way to cut it all out and weld in new pieces without loosing the factory shape. I'm sure trying to find replacement weld in parts for the cab is impossible ha ha. but on the bright side, the drivers side floor looks to be in ok shape and the passenger side is going to be east to fix. I managed to cut out a square that seemed to eliminate all the major damage.
    IMG_20170207_190013154.jpgIMG_20170207_190027918.jpgIMG_20170207_190039968.jpgIMG_20170207_190049233.jpg

  20. #70

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    good things have come in the mail.
    IMG_20170227_162034994.jpgIMG_20170227_162711176.jpg

  21. #71




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    Vintage air has a small heat or heat and air unit that is for street rods that should fit nicely.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  22. #72

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    So some updates:

    Finally rolled the chassis out to pressure wash the chassis to get ready to paint it. Gonna do the front, then when i have the cab back on I'm gonna take the bed off and do the same thing.
    IMG_20170225_133242387_HDR.jpg
    Then something came in the mail!!!
    IMG_20170227_162034994 1.jpgIMG_20170227_162711176 1.jpg
    Dropped those off at the machine shop and thanks to Uncle Spence here on the forums i got my missing grill! Thanks dude!
    IMG_20170304_141931895.jpg
    Also dropped the pistons off and got the block back from the machine shop! Looks fancy.
    IMG_20170306_193812556.jpgIMG_20170306_193817506.jpg
    Unfortunately the money dried up again and the project is going to be on hold financially for a few months again.
    Next steps include:
    Finish cleaning a painting the chassis
    Remove all the mounts for the factory air-box and brake lines and such in the engine bay
    Drop cab back on chassis with the block, head, and tranny in to see how I'm going to weld my new firewall to clear the coolant thing on the head.
    Weld new floorboard and new firewall in
    Prep engine bay for paint
    Paint engine bay
    Clean the under-body of the cab and paint with truck bed liner
    Put engine and tranny back in
    Begin wiring harness dissection and modification

    That's all i can think off of the top of my head but any advice or opinions on any of that stuff I'd love to hear it!

  23. #73

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    You going to paint that block?

  24. #74

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Spence View Post
    You going to paint that block?
    I'm thinking about it. does the rustoleum engine block paint do pretty well?

  25. #75



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    Chyrio, those pistons got delivered to your place by mistake...can you forward them this way for me? thanks lol.
    Ya want that high heat 2000 degree ceramic paint. I use it on my headers and it is still all very purdy.
    Oreilly's has it on shelf.

    beforeafter.jpg
    Last edited by BradMph; 03-10-2017 at 03:41 AM.

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