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Thread: who wants to build a race truck?

  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    #1. simplest option - Conquest/Starion 2.6 + hardware. Already configured for RWD and will bolt in.

    #2. DSM 6 bolt turbo complete with harness and hardware. Needs to be modified for RWD but a ton of resource info and parts available.
    *remember these twin cam engines are also found in Hyundais and Kias minus turbo stuff but it opens up options.

    I might have this wrong but there aren't any 4G64 twin cam heads, only 16 valve optioned heads VS 8 valve.

    #3. 4G63 single cam turbo. Will be hard to find but a no brainer to build.

    Your weak point will be the transmission, But if you keep the power figures at a more conservative level (under 300 hp) it will last depending on how you drive it. Make a stonking thick steel plate for a transmission sump to reduce case flex.
    Hmm so the challenge is really just finding a 2.6 at that point which would not be easy up here unfortunately, since i have been up here i have seen one starion on CL but it was in immaculate shape. I couldn't live with myself knowing i ruined a perfect starion for my truck ha ha.

    Here is what I have leads on at the moment up here.

    1st gen Eagle Talon but its FWD, guy says he has everything I need to turbo it but he just never got around to it, 500 bucks. weren't all 1G talons DOHC? here is the ad for reference http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/5769417393.html

    I also have leads on two 88 Mighty Max's both with the 2.4 4g64 carbed engines and 2wd tranny for one. were the KM132 trannys in the 2nd gen Mighty Max stronger than the first gen?

  2. #27




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    88 mighty maxes are either 2.0 or 2.6. - g63b or g54b. The 2nd gen trannies may be stronger, but not as strong as the KM132 tranny in a starquest. Get a Tuffpan for the tranny though and it will survive much abuse - LSR mike can attest to that.
    Pennyman1
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  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    88 mighty maxes are either 2.0 or 2.6. - g63b or g54b.
    Well that's really good info! In that case is there any significant difference between the starion g54 and the truck ones? Other than carbed vs FI obviously.

  4. #29

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    well u gotta work with what u got.....
    i lost track of all the narrow/wide block application crap.... these sharp dudes can probably tell u what u have
    narrow bolts right up to DSM motor
    ALL details of the dohc transplant found on these forums or here; http://projectzerog.com/
    some trucks got low 12s/hi 11s on stock gbox. Perhaps the limit. Don't boost in 5th gear on -any- stock mitsu rwd 5spd, truck or starion

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Your weak point will be the transmission, But if you keep the power figures at a more conservative level (under 300 hp) it will last depending on how you drive it. Make a stonking thick steel plate for a transmission sump to reduce case flex.
    Is there more info on this? I thought transmission sumps where only on autos?

  6. #31




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    the Tuffpan is a billet pan that is 1/2 " thick and installs with studs - not really a deep sump pan.
    Pennyman1
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  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chyrio View Post
    Is there more info on this? I thought transmission sumps where only on autos?
    Sorry, it's probably better described as a cover plate. A chunk of 1/4" sleet plate should be up to the task of reducing case flex.

  8. #33

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    ...just noticed pennymans' previous post - 1/2" thick? Holy shee-it, that is crazy thick. It would weigh a ton under there

  9. #34

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    http://www.tuffpans.com/
    says 3/4" or 19mm aluminum not steel

  10. #35


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    Tuff Pan. served me well. I was grabbing 5th under boost well over 450HP.

    TP Front.JPGXmission done.JPG

  11. #36

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    Sweet! great info! ill be sure to make/buy one when i get the guts out of the truck. i do plan on a full rebuild with brand new race bearings for the tranny (heard the bearings usually are the fail point with km132's).

    What would you say the weight balance is for a 1st get D50? i wanna say something like 70/30

  12. #37

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    Engine has been acquired...

    And he wasn't lying, it came with everything I need to convert it over to a turbo accept pistons. Debating about running the factory compression and less boost. hmmm decisions. But i do have, both the manifolds, engine harness, ecu, turbo, throttle body, maf, boost controller, etc. should be fun.

    IMG_20161002_152539714.jpgIMG_20161002_152549343.jpgIMG_20161002_152634868.jpg

  13. #38

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    You're not going to find any chassis balancing in a small truck. They're weighted like a throwing hammer - everything up front. Best you can do is try to tune the suspension - rear stabiliser bar, urethane bushes and anything that is tired or worn out. Decent shoes will go a long way to keeping it on the road too. With the extra horses, you're gonna need anything that will help keep it from trying to kill you.

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    With the extra horses, you're gonna need anything that will help keep it from trying to kill you.
    Thats the whole point in building this thing though ha ha. i thought about getting a soft top bed cover and moving anything i could to the rear like the radiator, battery, wiper fluid reservoir, try to move the fuel tank from the midish area to the rear of the bed (with rear reinforcement of course. i still know it wont be perfect but might help balance it out more.

  15. #40

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    Orrrrrrr.... I know im just dreaming here... ha ha but what if i made a hard top for the bed. but the last foot or so of the hard top was a spoiler that popped up when you hit 60mph or so like porsche's and lexus's have... could put much needed downforce on that rear axle while keeping the factory look.

  16. #41

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    The most do-able part of this would be looking for a hard bed cover that fits as closely to the truck, reinforcing it and trying out a JDM style drift wing. Vent your hood to cut turbulence from under the front of the truck and redirect it over the windscreen and get the truck low to the ground and add a front air dam to pull the nose down as well. Moving the radiator will have little impact on weight but shifting the battery to behind the cab will improve distribution.
    There isn't much weight you can shed from these trucks as they're practically a canoe already

  17. #42

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    hmm I'm just trying not to go for the riced out race look. this truck will be driven a lot. it will be more of a street truck than a track truck. any body mods i want to be modest and hidden if possible. like i was thinking something like this
    24-Hours-of-LeMons-Detroit-Leaders-Class-C-Runnerup-626x426.jpg

    But of course not the ratty trashy body ha ha. but i was thinking how that spoiler is sitting i could mimic that in a much more subtle way.

  18. #43



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    I think under the general section> check this out thread we have 2 videos of the days when we had a class just for the mini truck.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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  19. #44

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    I think the biggest issue with these trucks is the hovercraft factor. Getting it to stick to the road at speed is the trick. Waaay back in the 70's we had a very limited production 'race' ute (terminology for pick-up Oz style aka light utility) that sported a humongous fibreglass rear spoiler. Don't know if it performed the intended function but it make the bed nearly useless. They are hyper rare now and there wasn't any real interest in a sports ute until the last decade or so. You guys stateside love these crazy things - they are more than marketable but nobody wants to pick up the ball and run with it...

  20. #45




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    they used to make a Texas tail that bolted onto the top rails of the bed like the late 2000s dodge ram daytona pickup. you may still be able to find one
    Pennyman1
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  21. #46

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    Hmm I'll just have to play around with that works. my goal is to have a simple little pickup though. like when you see it all you would think is huh thats a cool old ram 50 but would never think it was a subaru munching, honda killing street machine.

  22. #47

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    Progress update:

    Pulling engine #1...
    IMG_20161007_163910478.jpgIMG_20161007_170552855.jpgIMG_20161007_172613979.jpg
    Pulling engine #2...
    IMG_20161008_140647202.jpgIMG_20161008_142635904.jpg
    Ready for dismantling...
    IMG_20161008_161347545.jpg

    But i have a question about brakes. I know on the second gen MM, you can take the 2 piston calipers from a late 90's montero for a easy upgrade. but whats compatible with the first gen MM. Also, can I use the master cylinder from the talon on the first gen MM?

  23. #48




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    If you swap to 2nd gen spindles or drop spindles, you can use the 2nd gen caliper, BUT you have to use the 2nd gen rotors also, as there is a different offset between the rotors, and the 2nd gen rotors are vented, 1st gen are not. If you try to use 2nd gen calipers on 1st gen spindles, you cannot get to the bolts to attach the calipers to the spindle, as the mounting position is clocked in the wrong direction to give bolt access. The 1st gen brakes are also the same as 81 - 86 Toyota Celica front brakes, and performance pads for them work on the truck.
    Pennyman1
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  24. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    The 1st gen brakes are also the same as 81 - 86 Toyota Celica front brakes, and performance pads for them work on the truck.
    So your strictly talking about the pads though right? Because the rotors are a 5 lug on the celicas.

  25. #50




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    yes just the pads
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