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Thread: My first generation build

  1. #1

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    My first generation build

    Hello everyone, thought I would post my build and any questions I might have in the process.

    Right now I am trying to fix the wiper system as the truck I got had its wiper motor taken out. I grabbed a 2nd Gen motor and although the bolts and holes do not match up perfectly I got it to somewhat connect. I plugged in the connector I thought would work and nothing happened when I turn the wipers on. So I plugged in another connector and it immediately made the motor hum and the 4x4 light to turn on. My guess is the original plug is for wipers and there's either a wiring issue or the switch on the Columbia is bad. Question I have now is what everyone think the second connector should go to?

  2. #2

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    Well I was following the advice on this forum and was changing the ther5. This resulted in two snapped bolts and a stuck bolt extractor. Now I have to decide to either do the "quick" fix and pay a machine shop to fix it or try and find anot her manifold. What to do, what to do....

  3. #3




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    as you found out, the wiper motors are different, and not interchangeable. The intake is a headache in itself, as finding another one will not be easy - it must be from an 82 - 89 2.6 g54b motor, although one from a k car / caravan 2.6 would work if you can find them in the JYs. There may still be an 86 truck in a yard near me that might still have the wiper motor on it - I can look to see and pull it if its there. No guarantees, as I have been pulling a lot off of it, and it could become crusher bait at any time.
    Pennyman1
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatmanwa View Post
    Well I was following the advice on this forum and was changing the ther5. This resulted in two snapped bolts and a stuck bolt extractor. Now I have to decide to either do the "quick" fix and pay a machine shop to fix it or try and find anot her manifold. What to do, what to do....

    I found a pop with a ton of parts and he has anot intake he's willing to sell for pretty cheap. He said it's from a 2.6 engine out of a ram 50. Is there any I should look at to see if it will or won't fit? I plan on going to a pick n pull this weekend as they just got a first generation truck there. Hopefully it has the parts I need. Unfortunately the website says it has the 2.0 engine.

  5. #5




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    look at the manifold at the distributor end - there should be one bolt on the far left top, and the first lower left bolt should be below the #1 cylinder runner - check to be sure yours is the same or take the old one with you. If the intake has 2 bolts on the far left by the distributor, it will not work, it is an early 2.6 manifold. All parts, like the wiper motor and column switch are the same, motor and trannys are different.
    Pennyman1
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  6. #6

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    Went to the junk yard today and pulled off parts from a first generation Mitsubishi max. Surprised that us was basic lyrics a complete vehicle. I found an intake off anow early montero, and everything looks like it will fit? Now I just need to get the adapter plate for the weber carb off the original manifold. Feel like the guy glued it in place. Thanks for the help!

  7. #7

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    Got both manifolds stripped down to swap parts and noticed the new one had one of the bolts holes for the carb welded iver. Took it to a shop and they tried drilling it and turns out it has the same problem as mine, stuck extractor. So now on to find anot her one. I found a station at a junkyard somewhat near me, got the 2.6 turbo engine. Anyone know if it will fit the non turbo set up?

  8. #8




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    it will, but the bolt pattern for the throttle body is different than the carb.
    Pennyman1
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    it will, but the bolt pattern for the throttle body is different than the carb.
    So my assumption was right, those cars are only fuel injected. Well I am still searching for an intake! I think shipping from the east coast would cost a lot

  10. #10




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    its too big for a priority flat rate box I think. it would probably be 40 - 50 to ship it if I would have to guess
    Pennyman1
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  11. #11

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    Try Ram light Truck Parts in Portland.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    Try Ram light Truck Parts in Portland.
    Ok, now I feel like an idiot. I found that guy a long time ago, but completely forgot about him! Just called an he says he's got the part! More expensive thank a junk yard but cheaper than the machine shop! Going there tomorrow morning.

  13. #13

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    It may not look it but it's a cool place don't tell a lot of people about it, save it for serious folks and don;t let on to them about how cool these rigs are. They quoted me $150 for a door this morning sounded high to me since I saw what they have.

  14. #14

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    Got everything assembled and it started right up! But I sense a carb rebuild soon. Anyone got a good how to on the weber?

  15. #15

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  16. #16

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    Thought I would add some pictures of the work I have done.
    Attached Images

  17. #17

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    The pictures show the truck when I bought it and at its new home. Then after I took it apart showing the broken easy out on the thermostat housing. also, that carb is pretty filthy. the inside looks pretty bad too. I sprayed it off with some throttle body cleaner, so its a little cleaner now. While at the junk yard I happen to find a new weber air filter. Good thing to since looking closely at mine I can nearly see right through it.

    Next I plan on adding some mechanical gauges, finding some clips for the air filter (using zip ties right now) and getting some tires. Also need to fix the vent system a bit. It mostly works, but it wont switch to defrost.

    Since I plan on using this for a race, I plan on getting a CB radio and some LED lights. Probably also have my friend/co-driver fab up some nice off-road style bumpers. The front is bent up after some sort of front end collision and the back one looks bent from to heavy of a load.

    More pictures to come.

  18. #18

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    I had to get the heater box out of a junk yard my levers were stiff and the valve was frozen on mine. You might try lubing them at the box or taking the box out and cleaning it up. Mice like to build nests in them. I have an extra blower motor if you need it.

  19. #19

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    The blower works, I was messing with the knobs that switch from vent to defrost and something came undon, heard it disconnect. Now I have another issue. Drove it a bit and parked it, then came back and tried to unlock the door and nothing happened. Went through the passenger door and tried opening it from the inside, nothing. And to make matters worse, the knob on the lock is broken off. Now I need to figure out how to open the door to fix it.

  20. #20

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    Quick question: I was looking around on 4wheelparts.com and noticed that they listed two Mitsubishi axles and diffs for each. They listed an 8" for front the front axle and 9" for rear. Do these parts fit my first gen truck?

  21. #21




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    the 1st gen are 8" front and rear, but the front diff is slightly smaller than the rear diff - a locker from a starquest fits the front of the 1st gen axle. later 2nd gen v6 4wds have the 9" diff in the rear
    Pennyman1
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  22. #22

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    Ok, I am at a loss. Bought a timing light and tried to adjust timing to stop the run on. The timing looked like it was at what I guess is 30° before TDC. Moved it to what I think is 7°. Then I tried adjusting the carb mix screw and idle screw. Went for a drive and as soon as I shift to second and hit the gas it bogs down and has zero power. It will also back fire if I keep pressing it. Tried adjusting timing again with a diff Mark and nothing changed. But now I think I have some pinging going on as it sounds more like a 4 cylinder diesel.

    Sooo, what should I do?

  23. #23




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    it sounds like you have the distributor one tooth off. You need to get that timing right for it to run right. Pinging sounds too advanced - your saying it was 30 degrees BTDC before you adjusted the timing couldn't have been right. there are threads on here that will help you get the distributor back in right.
    Pennyman1
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  24. #24

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    Ok, going to look around the pull your some more. Maybe I was using the wrong mark. Oh, should I have the vacume line off of the distributor while doing the timing?

  25. #25

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    You need the vac line on the distributor to be connected during tuning. Also make sure your air/fuel mix screw is adjusted correctly. What is your idle rpm like? Try to set your throttle stop with a minimum of load on the throttle linkage and dial it in slowly. Timing, throttle and air fuel all affect each other - once you have got one right, the others fall into place eventually.
    Last edited by geezer101; 08-27-2017 at 05:40 AM.

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