Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 51 to 59 of 59

Thread: My first generation build

  1. #51

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    2,081
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    When they made the transition from Gen 1 to Gen 2, some of the control switches changed and they aren't cross compatible. That being said, I can't see why it wouldn't be possible go the full deal and replace the wiper/indicator combo switch and a few other units from the Gen 2 (don't know if it has been done but at the end of the day, you'll end up with intermittent wiper delay and a bunch of newer components that should be easier to source replacements for) The electrics for these trucks are pretty basic without EFI and with a whole wiring loom laid out in front of you, you can delete/add and modify it to suit your build. It would be easier just to get another Gen 1 loom that hasn't been butchered but sometimes you have to work with what's available...

  2. #52

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    2,081
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    btw, that looks like a heap of fun!

  3. #53

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-30-2016
    Posts
    41
    Location

    Usa
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    btw, that looks like a heap of fun!
    It was one of the best weekends I have ever had.

    I ordered a similar headlight kit from amazon for the headlights. I am going to be on the look out for a first gen truck to pull the wire harness and just get a good idea on what things "should" look like. I do need to figure out how to pull the dash off.

  4. #54

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    2,081
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Gen 1's are easy enough to pull apart. Take off the heater control knobs and the blower knob, undo the blower switch nut. There's 2 screws in the upper part of the gauge shroud - remove them. You should be able to pull the whole dash panel out (if you have tilt adjust steering, drop it down as pulling the dash panel out takes a bit of wrangling to clear the steering column cover top). Unplug the lighter socket and you can take the whole dash panel out of the way, exposing 4 screws that hold the gauge cluster in place (one in each corner). Remove them and pull the cluster forward, reach in behind the cluster and unplug the 3 connector sockets and unscrew the speedo cable.

    Done. This should give you all the access you need to the under dash wiring.

  5. #55

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-30-2016
    Posts
    41
    Location

    Usa
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Pulled out the ecm the other day. If anyone is interested in it, they can have it it just pay for shilping. It will come with what I believe is all of the original carb connections.

  6. #56

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-30-2016
    Posts
    41
    Location

    Usa
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B

    wiring

    Finally "made" my headlights work, got one of those premade wire harnesses. Now I have my regular headlights, but one of the brights comes on too, dimly lite though. I also hooked up my electric choke wire to the black wire with a white strip that connects to the white piece on the ignition coil. Drove to work the next day and everything was fine. Went to drive home and had a dead battery, the starter pushed the gear out but then no spin. Disconnected all of my extra wires (led bar, cb, power inverter, new light harness) and the electric choke. Got a jump and it started, reconnected electric choke so it wouldn't rev so high.

    Now I am trying to find out what caused the battery to drain. Is the location I connected the choke to a good one? From the wiring diagrams is seems like the same wire that was suggested to me (original carb fuel cut off solenoid). If it is a good one, then the drain must have come from another source, probably the headlight relays or something.

  7. #57

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    2,081
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    The place you hooked up the electric choke is standard. There is no power to the coil without the ignition switch turned to the 'ON' position so there's no chance of it being live the whole time (unless someone did something really stupid to the ignition circuit, which would then lead to the ICM in the distributor burning out very quickly). There must be a live continuous power issue somewhere else which has just taken place since you fixed the headlights. Did you hook up power from the battery for the new headlight harness?

  8. #58

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-30-2016
    Posts
    41
    Location

    Usa
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    The place you hooked up the electric choke is standard. There is no power to the coil without the ignition switch turned to the 'ON' position so there's no chance of it being live the whole time (unless someone did something really stupid to the ignition circuit, which would then lead to the ICM in the distributor burning out very quickly). There must be a live continuous power issue somewhere else which has just taken place since you fixed the headlights. Did you hook up power from the battery for the new headlight harness?
    I Bought a kit similar to what you suggested from Amazon. It has power from the battery to relays, then to lights and have short ground wires that I screwed into the body. I then took a wire from negative to the cab where I hooked up a switch and then to the negative side of the relays. I feel like I may have constant power to the relays, so may need to rethink how I power them.

    Thanks for letting me know the choke wire is good, I remember you describing where you hook it up. But since I just tore out the ECM and original carb wiring, I wanted to make sure I did it right.

  9. #59

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    2,081
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    If you have a pocket multimeter, check the relays for signs of voltage while the switch is off. If you don't have one - get one. They can be had for cheaps and are invaluable for digging around auto electrics. I would look at the relay that is tripping off the high beam - I think there's something suspicious going on there. There shouldn't be any voltage passing into that circuit without the high beams actually switched on (maybe the relay is faulty...)

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •