If its spinning nice on the bench, but not so well on the truck i would look for a bad engine earth strap (if one is even fitted, i once had an engine earthing through the choke cable). I have previously added a ground from one of the starter mounting bolts to the frame and it really increases the power going through the starter
also be sure the ground from the exhaust stud to the firewall is in place - missing that causes all kinds of weird problems
Found the issue, positive cable going to starter was to corroded. Surprised me as it passed the voltage and ohms test.
Now I need to decide if I want to keep the new starter. The old one was for an auto transmission and had the extra wire to the ballast. New one is for a manual (which I have) and no extra wire.
Really surprised me too. Normally it's the ground leads that corrode...Originally Posted by Fatmanwa
As I removed the cable it was looking really close at it and the terminal fell off the cable! Bunch of corrosion came out with it. Must have been just enough to pass voltage but not enough for amps.
Went to drive the truck today, and it wouldn't start againI think it may have to do with me removing that ignition bypass wire to the ballast. To me it sounds like it is not getting spark/igniting the fuel. I can smell the fuel and it is turning over well. Last time I drove the truck, it did sound and feel like it may have a miss. Probably replace wires and plugs too, but first I am going to see if it is getting spark.
What MSD coil do you all recommend? Read it one was a good replacement to remove the ballast and the ignition bypass wire.
I have to say a big thank you to who ever created that starter s and r terminal article. Since I got my new starter with no ballast by pass wire, it's been hard starting the truck below 50. Installed the food as specified and it started right up this morning at 39!
Wanting to add some kind of prefilter to the weber lifetime one I have. I actually replaced the one that came with the truck that was falling apart with one I found in a junk yard. Never oiled the one I found, but plan too soon. Was thinking of adding a sock or foam uni filter. Anyone have ideas on what model works from uni or similar brands?
Look on ebay for the different prefilters they make for all sizes and shapes of filters
I bought a Kawasaki ninja foam air filter for a custom air filter i made. it was a nice size to work with and very cheap. You can buy sheets of the foam over there pretty cheap, are you using a panel filter style? you can get 2 grades
I am using a K and N style filter that fits the weber carb. One of the 6.75x4.5x2.5, found it in a junkyard as the one that came with the truck was worn out and lost most of its fibers, just wire mesh left.
I found this company that makes an exact fit for the style if filter that comes with a weber. Not sure if I will use it or make a foam one like you suggested.
https://www.outerwears.com/cart.asp?...%3Fprod%3D8446
Need to replace master cylinder. Is there anything diff about bleeding it compared to ones with the fluid resivoir attached to the top? Does using the syringe type tool help?
Whatever method that gets air out of the system and works for you will suffice. And I'd be hesitant about using foam type air filter elements. I used to use LYNX Ramflo air cleaners until I found out how bad they are (elements shrink so they don't filter around the edges, they crumble and having chunks of foam being pulled into the carb is a disaster and they don't filter well at all which I can pay testament to due to the amount of dust I would find stuck to my air cleaner base plate)
he wants to use the foam as a pre-filter - that works well. I have had one on Geronimo for years.
Ah, ok. It will catch the bigger particulates before the main filter eats them. Fair enuff...
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