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Thread: Embarrasing mistake-need suggestions

  1. #26

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    Thanks.

  2. #27

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    Just got my hinges, Thanks ragragtimetime.
    I hit em with a wire wheel and a grinder, now they are soaking in 60/40 distilled white vinegar & water to loosen the rest of the rust. I will soak them in plain water and baking soda to neutralize the acid once I am satisfied with the removal of rust. Now that I have them I can see the hinge on my truck with the spring in it moved enough to bend that pin where the rubber cover goes.
    after grinder WW.jpg after wire wheel.jpg in 60-40 vinegar&water.jpg

  3. #28

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    looks awesome!...so happy I could help. old parts live on!

  4. #29

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    OK here they are this morning after soaking in plain water and baking soda overnight. Note that original container I showed was too small. Apparently there is a bit of bubbling action and it was overflowing I had to move up to a larger container.
    The distilled white vinegar worked well, after 2 hours it was coming off and 2 more it was easy to get the stuff off. I saw two vids on YT about using vinegar the other guy used apple cider vinegar on some bolts and he soaked them overnight. I think it is less acid than the white distilled.

    I am debating if I should oil through that spot on the bottom or paint it with rustoleum to prevent the rust from growing again.

    after soak.jpgother side.jpg

  5. #30




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    Heinz makes a cleaning vinegar that is stronger that cooking vinegar - would work faster on rust.
    Pennyman1
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  6. #31

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    I decided on spraying them with rustoleum for rusty metal just to feel better about the bits I couldn't get at to wipe away.
    The rain stopped long enough I replaced the bottom hinge and that seems to have done the trick. I will wait until I have the fender ready to do some dry fitting and make sure I don't also need to replace the top hinge. It operates better than it did before I wrecked it It was definitely bent forward I could hardly get at one of the bolts which was easy access in the replacement hinge.
    You made the call pennyman Thanks! I adjusted the color on the second pic to make it more visible.
    IN!.jpg IN2.jpg
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 10-03-2016 at 09:07 AM.

  7. #32




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    glad I could help - unfortunately I know that from experience.
    Pennyman1
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  8. #33




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    A better primer for bare metal is a self etching primer - it bites into the metal and seals it from water. It is available in a spray can or as a 2 part primer. Geronimo was sprayed inside and out with DP40 before body work - he shows no rust after 26 years.
    Pennyman1
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  9. #34

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    I was more concerned with the spots where rust was located especially on the backside. sure it was visibly gone but that stuff is like a fungus if you don't get rid of it all it will grow back. The anodizing was still intact in most places so I chose the rustoleum for rusty metal to make sure the rust would not come back to life in those hidden spots. I also put WD40 on that spot on the other side of the spring. Nothing but rain til the weekend so probably no progress until next week.

  10. #35

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    New update no pics.
    Had a dry sunny spell so I tried to hang the fender with it set in its old place and the door was rubbing inside the top curve. I replaced the top hinge with the new one from Ragragtimetime and it would not mount flush to the door side and the bolt that the nut slips over started spinning when I tried to make the nut tighter. The door also lost its good hang and I could not get it adjusted so I put the old top hinge back on. It sits flush to the door and now the door hangs good again. I'm betting this is where the problem is.
    I called a body shop and the guy told me it is unlikely that I would have made the fender out that far (you can put them anywhere) and it is probably the hinge pillar or the door skin. When I mentioned the top hinge he said that is probably it. He says get a new door and if I have the same issue its the main pillar that is out.
    I have stopped work for now to let my body recover but when I get back at it I am going to try to hammer out the inside of the door where the hinge attaches.
    The problem with the edge of the door rubbing is probably only a matter of 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch if that.
    I was hoping it would be simple like find a new fender anyway.....
    I will update later

  11. #36

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    I just drove to the autobody shop. The guy pointed out to me that my fender was indeed out of shape and has flat spots where it should be curved and that was probably the reason it got caught on the door when I tried to fit it. I had missed this. He seemed to think I could pound them into shape without removing the stiffener.

  12. #37

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    Not good news - sorry to hear that... I had a feeling the door pillar would've gotten twisted out of shape.

  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Not good news - sorry to hear that... I had a feeling the door pillar would've gotten twisted out of shape.
    No worry's geez, he said the door closing right was good sign the pillar was probably good and my problem was actually the flat spots I had not got out of the fender.

  14. #39

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    Fingers crossed hope your cab is still good.

  15. #40

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    So I had an idea. I traced a 2x6 up against the door to get the shape. Then I went to the local community college and used the bandsaw to cut it out. I then clamped the fender from both sidesusing the two pieces of wood and heated it up with the rosebud. It didn't get fully cherry red but the paint and wood caught fire so I figure it should have been hot enough to relax the metal. It's cooling right now. I may have to find my other steel clamps so I can heat the stiffener if this doesn't hold when I unclamp it.
    clamped2.jpg top side.jpg

  16. #41

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    A VERY impressive bit of ingenuity!! Hope it works.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  17. #42

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    Yea I'm pretty proud of myself for that.

  18. #43

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    Outstanding

  19. #44

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    Bad news the flat spots (which are in the same place as the stiffener) were still in it when I removed the mould. I had a message from Mike on ebay, says he has a used one good shape $160 shipped. Hopefully he responds soon. Ebay didn't tell me I had his message. I gotta figure its cheaper than paying someone to fix it. I just don't have the tools or the a way to clamp the whole fender still so I could hammer out the flat spots with the right hammers and dobe blocks.
    EDIT- I just messed with it some more and its definitely the stiffener that is out of shape. IDK how to fix that or if I can get a new one to save this fender for someone else. I can put it in and hold it in shape but once I let go or hold it with a bolt at top and bottom the stiffener pulls it back out of shape. If anyone knows where to get a stiffener let me know.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 10-06-2016 at 01:30 PM.

  20. #45

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    I have fenders from the 1983 4wd (not in great shape):

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...hp?albumid=301

    & will sell entire fender (or both fenders with emblems & marker lights) / or would be willing to cut the stiffener out of the driver side fender. Send me a private message for whichever route you choose. peace!

  21. #46

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    found a fender from an 84 mitsubishi. I have it i cleaned it and there are a couple holes in the rocker panel area less than 1/8th inch. I am letting it dry, I will paint it tomorrow and start trying to fit it. Lets hope I don't need a door. I hate spending money on it before I have a decent running (low fuel consumption) motor in it.
    This guy had two other trucks that seemed to me to be the 83-86 variety but he claimed they were 79. I swear the fenders were the same as mine.

  22. #47




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    they may have been replaced with newer fenders - they will work either way
    Pennyman1
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  23. #48

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  24. #49

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    Thanks Ragragtimetime, Got her done and made the other hinge you sold me work.
    So the smaller bondo work was harder??? finally got it done and paint dry about 1pm. Then I hung it fiddled with it, had to bang on the door with a rubber mallet and piece of wood and it finally fit. It clears by a hair when it opens but everything is tight so I don't expect anything to happen. I have a marker light and the damaged fender if anyone needs it.

    both new hinges.jpg well hung.jpg fender.jpg bondo.jpg from the front.jpg well hung 2.jpg
    EDIT Side note I could see on the fender I used that I had not bent the stiffener back into the correct shape. If you look at the last picture in ragragtimetime's post it shows it in the area of that upside down SL stamp. Its kid of a sharp bend and the top half comes forward causing a curve. IDK how I would be able to reproduce that outside a proper shop and even then I'd probably not get it right without jigs or a mould.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 10-08-2016 at 06:28 PM.

  25. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    they may have been replaced with newer fenders - they will work either way
    Hey Pennyman1, I posted a compliment to you in some thread about a link you posted to a site that had a bunch of stuff for these mighty rams and now I can't find it. I forgot to book mark it. do you happen to remember that site?

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