Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Rear Main Seal

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-15-2011
    Posts
    11
    Location

    West Columbia, SC
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Power Ram 50

    Rear Main Seal

    looking for some tips on replacing the rear main seal on a 2.0 4 spd 4wd is it easier to take the engine out or drop the trans? any pictures?

  2. #2



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-26-2011
    Posts
    1,512
    Location

    Vacaville, CA
    Vehicle

    1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G63-T
    not sure on the 4wd how much more difficult it is, but I'm still guessing pulling just the tranny will be the quickest/easiest. Thats how I do it.
    Josh
    09 BMW 335i E92 Twin turbo
    89 Macrocab 4g63 Turbo swapped & Bagged: Build Thread

  3. #3



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,614
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    4wd,,, my self I would pull the engine.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Check out the Fear Monger by
    clicking HERE.

    The MightyRam50 site is sponsored in part by On Site Concrete Inc.

  4. #4


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-04-2011
    Posts
    685
    Location

    Columbus, OH
    Vehicle

    1992 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    Other
    From my experience, pulling the engine and Trans as a unit is the easiest. those top bolts where the engine and trans come together are a bear.

    basic tools 10MM, 12 MM and 14MM sockets/wrenches.Air ratchet is HIGHLY recommended.
    It's easier to drop the driveshaft and crossmember than remove those 2 bolts on top. !Don't forget to put a jack under the trans.Oh, don't forget the speedo cable, while you're unhooking the clutch cable. Remove the shifter from inside the cab! 3 screws(boot) and 3 bolts(10MM). All the electrical connectors are different on the engine so that's easy, disconnect and move outta the way.

    drain and pull the radiator, 6 bolts for the shroud and 4 for the radiator (10MM), remove the hood, don't forget to scribe the hinges, makes it easy to re-align it when it goes back on. Undo the exhaust, lots of penetrating lube on those bolts before you remove the hood.
    pull the MAF and airbox and intake tube, disconnect the fuel lines,



    HMMM, motor mounts and the ground cable, alternator plugs and wire, stuff a rag into the back of the tranny or there will be a mess when the trans oil drains out of the bad seal, better yet , just drain the tranny.

    I'm sure I forgot something but it's a lot easier to split the tranny from the block in the middle of the garage. then the rear seal is easy, once you get the clutch and flywheel off. Tip, you'll need about a 6 inch piece of flat bar, drill a hole for a tranny bolt, and one for a clutch pressure plate bolt.
    attach the flatbar with those bolts to keep the flywheel from rotating. use a impact gun to get the Flywheel bolts loose, or a breaker bar and a long piece of pipe. I'm sure I've forgotten something but this will get you close. Clean and paint stuff as you go. It'll be a dirty weekend.



    Last edited by LSR Mike; 09-07-2011 at 06:07 PM.

  5. #5

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-15-2011
    Posts
    11
    Location

    West Columbia, SC
    Vehicle

    1984 Dodge Power Ram 50

    whew

    sounds like a job! luckily mine is carbed so not too many wires to disconnect but after anylizing the job i think ill wait until i have the money to do the starter flywheel clutch...while i have the engine out as for now i just drained a half quart of oil and put some bardhal stop leak seal conditioner in it we'll see how that works supposed to work within 3 days

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-07-2011
    Posts
    289
    Location

    Burbank, CA
    Vehicle

    1983 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4D55-T
    done it many times. If you have help drop the trans. Just have a rear seal sleeve handy because the cranks wear a heavy groove from the seal which don't always seal up without the repair sleeve. A repair sleeve is a very thin sleeve made just for your engine and is pressed over end of crank to cover the worn groove. BTW you only have to drain the T-case as the transmission won't leak out because it it sealed against the t case. I do the clutch on those in about 4 hours

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •