you want around 100 psi or more. Also the Jet valves can cause smoke if your truck has them.
you want around 100 psi or more. Also the Jet valves can cause smoke if your truck has them.
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This is how it runs..Originally Posted by royster
https://youtu.be/rvbJlt2KAYw
He's got the 4G64, cammoit...no jet valves.
Sounds good running, chaoticdopey. I'm going to say your valve seals are bad, by the inconsistency of the smoking. If it were rings, you wouldn't have periods of clear exhaust. Don't take my word for it, though: get a couple more opinions.
My experience with bad seals was prolonged smoking after a cold start-up, often until it was almost at running temperature. It would smoke for at least a mile before finally clearing up. The reason is: sitting overnight, oil drips into the cyclinders. The cold start-up isn't enough to burn it all off quickly, so there is a period of start-up smoking.
I also found, after replacing the seals, that it continued to smoke at cold start-up for a couple days...getting less and less each time.
I'll probably get flak from some members for saying this, but I run straight 30 weight oil in my 4G64: I found multi-viscosity allows some smoking, and this might be due to some cylinder wear, and possibly seal failure due to my not really being absolutely certain how to install them. I installed them correctly enough that mine doesn't smoke except on occassion.
Hope this is of some help to you.
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
I thought it sounded pretty noisy. Have you performed an oil engine flush on this engine before? It might go a long way to quietening the hydraulic tappets and cleaning out build up on the rings (bit of fuel system additive would help too). Use good quality valve stem seals like Felpro and they will last longer and seal better.
not a good idea to run engine oil flush on a high mile vehicle - it will clean it all right, then every worn part of the motor will make so much noise you will think it is going to explode. Use 1 quart of Rislone or Lucas oil fortifier instead to slowly clean out the motor.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Might as well change the valve stem seals while im doing this maintanence, is there a right-up on how to do it with the head still on?
No i have not flushes the engine, i was thinking about dumping a bottle of seafoam down the intake to clean the vales, ive watched a youtube video of letting it sit for some time with the liquid sitting on the pistons to completley clean the cylinders, of course i will remove all 4 spark plugs so i do not hydrolock the motor, i did send my boroscope camera into the number 1 cylinder and saw alot of buildup on the valves, so this should clean them..
Heres a video of the results from youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6UeJXkzDW8
After i seafoam it should i put 20-50 generic oil with a quart of lucus?
The valve seal replacement procedure is sort of scattered on the forum...even my own write up is prolonged, because I was learning as I go. I will attempt to put together a comprehensive post here, but you really will do well to buy a shop manual for the truck. They're $20 at most auto parts stores, and the photos will help a bunch. Missing information from the manual (you'd be surprised) can be found here.
NOTE: I meant 'Haynes' manual.If your truck is smoking, and a nicotine patch isn't working, look into replacing the valve guide seals before you panic about an expensive rebuild. They CAN be replaced while the head is still on the engine, though caution must be taken to assure valves don't slip into the cylinder when the keepers and springs are removed. The Chilton manual suggests setting the cylinder you're working on to be set at just-before TDC, the spark plug removed, and the cylinder stuffed with nylon rope. Once rope is stuffed as much as you can, turn the engine gently to TDC. The rope will support the valve while you replace the guides. After each cylder is serviced, back the engine to just-before TDC and remove the rope. (See the book or ask here if this suggestion isn't clear).
NOTE: Your hydrolic lifters are inside the rocker arms, and when you pull the rocker assembly up, out of its craddle, they'll tend to drop out, and possibly into the engine. Here's a helpful hint to avoid that : http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26624
Here's a link to my own build thread, note the menu in the very first post. This is NOT the best thread you could want, but the information is there as I bumble through my experiences, and experts post helping directions. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post25752Those with the 4G64 should know they have little hydrolic lifters in the rockerarms, and the first thing they try to do when you lift the assembly from its craddle is to escape. They look for the nearest exit, which happens to be the oil drain holes in the cylinder head.
Once you have the valve cover off, take the time to block those drain holes with rags or some suitable plugging material. I don't recommend expanding foam, but for the smaller holes, I did roll tight a paper towel, and cut it half: that plugged two holes.
Some people use tape to keep the lifters in place during removal and installation, but I used disposable mechanic's gloves. I cut the fingers off and used 'em like little rockerarm condoms. Balloons might work, but I don't think the latex could withstand the oil exposure. The mechanic's gloves are designed to do just that. 'Nothing worse than a condom breaking just when you need it most.
If you can indicate when you are going to do this, I will be happy to stand by and help with any questions and suggestions. I've subscribed to the thread (meaning I get an e-mail notice when you post here).
I'm originally from L.A., if that's any comfort
Last edited by royster; 06-13-2016 at 06:18 AM.
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
We don't have Seafoam over here in Oz and to be honest, it sounds gimmicky at best to me. Seems like all the stuff does is soak into the carbon build up, making it swell then letting compression and combustion do the rest. Spraying water into the intake of a running engine will do the same (without the smoke screen) or using a fuel additive and letting the treated fuel do the work. My suspicion of off-the-shelf engine oil flush being not much more than really over priced diesel fuel seems to be confirmed. I've used a mix of diesel and clean oil to flush a number of engines and it has silenced noisy hydraulics (gave wifeys' 2004 Elantra a flush and oil change and the HLA's in it were rattling like hell before the service).
I am a little worried about doing valve seals on an assembled engine as the spring collets could drop into the engine or just go flying out into the never-to-be-seem-again. With the head off you can give the valves a check over and lap them and do a general inspection of the condition of the head but the downside is the extra $$$ and time off the road. Plenty of people do the rope trick and manage to replace rock hard valve seals without running into grief. Depends on if you think it needs that level of maintenance.
I have Mitchell and AllData so no shop manual needed..
Have you got a formula for that mixture Geez?
O.k. this is how I perform my engine flushes -
#1. Dump the current oil and drain the filter out as much as possible, then reinstall it
#2. Add 2 litres of fresh oil and add 0.5 litres of diesel fuel, then drive it for the rest of the day (guarantee this will not harm your engine and you should notice lifter noise will reduce within 5-10 mins of driving)
#3. Leave it overnight, start it again in the morning and bring it up to normal operating temperature (leaving it overnight will allow the diesel to continue to break up gunk in places like the lifters - and the flush oil will look filthy...)
#4. Dump the flush oil and replace the filter with a new unit, then fill to normal capacity (approx 3.6 litres - if you know your engine is tired now would be the best time to go up to a heavier weight oil)
I've been doing this to mine and wifey's car (both of which are Hyundais and are notorious for noisy hydraulics) and not only has significantly quietened them down but has extended the life of the oil and has had no adverse issues.
GUna start the process tomorrow of trying to fix it cause under load or acceleration it has tons of smoke, and spark plug number 2 has wet oil on the electrode...
Im going to pull the whole head and take it to the shop, can i re-use the same head bolts? As ive already ordered a new head gasket and intake and exhaust gaskets also, but i cant find the head bolts for this 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 2.4 anywhere, or im just blind...
I believe this question has recently been asked and the reason why you can't find new replacement head bolts are they are reuseable, thus no real demand for them.
After pulling off the exhaust i saw so much oil in the exhaust holes, so i take it being compression is good that oil in exhaust holes would be valve seals then correct?
After pulling off the exhaust i saw so much oil in the exhaust holes, so i take it being compression is good that oil in exhaust holes would be valve seals then correct?
I would put money on it. The valve seals are probably hard as ceramic. If it's going into a shop they should do a thorough job of inspecting it. New stem seals and a head freshen up cures most engines with oil consumption issues.
so these engines dont have problems with piston rings?
Your compression tests make it very unlikely there are ring problems allowing enough oil by to cause the smoke you describe.
As a general rule of thumb you'll experience oil burn from head issues way before piston and rings. Every Mitsubishi engine I've had that had suffered from oil burn was fixed by a cylinder head freshen up.
Thanks, going to finish taking the head off today, im pulling it with the intake attached as the intake is a PITA to get off the head, plus i didnt have a 10mm allen yesterday to pull the head bolts...
Any news yet?
ya man ive been so lazy and its been hot as satans nut sack here in california, well i got the resurfaced head on with new valve seals the the dam thing still smokes, im going to do a compression test tomorrow and ill let you know how it goes...
but im thinking bad rings, if i pull the engine all i have to do is change the rings correct? i can reuse the pistons and rods plus change the main and rod bearing?
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