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Thread: Screwed up timing, I Think..

  1. #51

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    You 'can' get away with replacing the rings only but there's a number of pitfalls in doing so. If the bores are ovalled out or have vertical wear grooves in them the rings will only be a band aid solution (it will also depend on the condition of the pistons as well). You'll get by with a light hone if the bores aren't showing signs of excessive wear (race engines are built with greater bore clearances, but are in by their nature designed to be pulled down and rebuilt every race season) so technically it's a feasible approach...

  2. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    You 'can' get away with replacing the rings only but there's a number of pitfalls in doing so. If the bores are ovalled out or have vertical wear grooves in them the rings will only be a band aid solution (it will also depend on the condition of the pistons as well). You'll get by with a light hone if the bores aren't showing signs of excessive wear (race engines are built with greater bore clearances, but are in by their nature designed to be pulled down and rebuilt every race season) so technically it's a feasible approach...
    so i can use the same bearings also? or do i have to change those too??

  3. #53

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    If you've got oil pressure issues, fragged bearings aren't going to help. This is one of those things where you won't know how bad it is until you've done a visual inspection and then it will be on you on the course of action. A big end or main journal bearing failure can cause catastrophic damage to the crank and/or rods. I think the oiling issues that plagued earlier 4G63 engines weren't an issue once they changed the head design, but it's still an engine. Change rings and hone the bores? - maybe. Bottom end bearings and crank inspection? - yeah, I personally would...and throw some new seals in it front and rear.

  4. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    If you've got oil pressure issues, fragged bearings aren't going to help. This is one of those things where you won't know how bad it is until you've done a visual inspection and then it will be on you on the course of action. A big end or main journal bearing failure can cause catastrophic damage to the crank and/or rods. I think the oiling issues that plagued earlier 4G63 engines weren't an issue once they changed the head design, but it's still an engine. Change rings and hone the bores? - maybe. Bottom end bearings and crank inspection? - yeah, I personally would...and throw some new seals in it front and rear.
    ok last question i should have for you for now, when looking on rock auto i see different rings like 0.020 over ect. which should i pick? I will link my RockAuto shopping cart and maybe get some pointers from you.. I just put "Standard" for all

    My Shopping Cart!!!

  5. #55

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    This will also depend on your inspection. If they're stock pistons and the engine hasn't been thrashed, you'll need to measure ring gap and make a decision from that info.

  6. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    This will also depend on your inspection. If they're stock pistons and the engine hasn't been thrashed, you'll need to measure ring gap and make a decision from that info.
    What should ring gap be? And is that just on the 1st ring?

  7. #57

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    Sorry. IDK the factory specs but it should be in the manuals/PDF section of the site

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