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Thread: i need some help

  1. #1

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    1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    i need some help

    okay, i wont go into the full story cause it would take a while but anyways, i bought an 88 mazda b2600 that has the g54b motor in it. it was running when i bought it but needed the holly carb tuned ad distrubitor restabbed. i picked it up from the shop today and it was running great, i drove it on and off the trailer, left it running while dropping the trailer and parking the truck. i wanted to take it for a spin around the block and see how she drove. i didnt even make i all th wa down the road and she died. i couldnt get her to start back up again so i had to call my grandpa to tow me back home. i know its getting fuel and air, so that leaves out spark. i just dont know where to start. thanks for any help

  2. #2

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    ??? holley carb ??? pics of carb Thx.
    Also dist 'restabbed' ??? how many miles ???
    repair history???
    & did the engine 'stop' suddenly or die gradually.
    More info needed, Thx !

  3. #3

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    dont have a pic of the carb, will get that tomorrow. when i say re stabbed, i mean they had to time it. the previous owner didnt have it timed right. theres aprox 150,000 on the motor. i was driving down the road and it just quit. the exhaust is kind of loud so i didnt hear any sputtering but i was off the gas because i was coming up on a stop sign and i looked down a the tach and it was at zero. i couldnt ever get it to start back up. im gonna take some pictures tomorrow.

  4. #4

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    The ICM in the distributor might be fried. If it just died on you I'd be putting my money on the ICM but you should test the ICM and the coil.

  5. #5

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    hi littlebluedawg
    i have a 88 dodge ram sport with the 2.6l automatic
    does your truck have this kind of set up on it? *see pic*DSC02583.jpg if so this is what happen to me a few weeks ago and it sounds just what happen to you. the wire that comes from the dist. to my setup on the fender was lose and when i hit a bump it lost connection . the truck died and would not start no matter what i did it just turned over and over. i was under the hood messing with the wires just kind of wiggling them and had the wife trying to start it when all of a sudden it fired off. kool yes? then i started wiggling wires again and it started sputtering acting like it wanted to die. long story short it was a lose wire tighten it up put some hot glue on the nut and bolt threads and good to go problems went away. hope this heads you in the right direction .

  6. #6

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    thanks for the replies. I think I fixed my problem. it was like jamesw said I believe. I grabbed some needle nose pliers and pulled all my sprank plug wires through the boot and made sure they had a good connection and then pushed the boots back down. it fired right up after that. however I have one more slight problem. its slow to return to idle and idles kind of high, any suggestions? thanks fellas

  7. #7

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    ^I'd be upgrading the ignition coil to a transformer type coil like that anyway as the oil filled coils get weak from a few decades of doing it's funky thing and getting baked and rattled around. You'll get a much cleaner fuel burn and it will maintain a good strong spark when you push the engine hard.

    *don't use hot glue to anchor a wire in an engine bay james - under hood temps will soften it, it more than likely isn't solvent resistant (plus it looks like a nasty ghetto fix). Crimp up a new connection and wire and match the connection type (eyelet or male spade terminal). It will eliminate the problem coming back to haunt you when you need it least.

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    ^I'd be upgrading the ignition coil to a transformer type coil like that anyway as the oil filled coils get weak from a few decades of doing it's funky thing and getting baked and rattled around. You'll get a much cleaner fuel burn and it will maintain a good strong spark when you push the engine hard.

    *don't use hot glue to anchor a wire in an engine bay james - under hood temps will soften it, it more than likely isn't solvent resistant (plus it looks like a nasty ghetto fix). Crimp up a new connection and wire and match the connection type (eyelet or male spade terminal). It will eliminate the problem coming back to haunt you when you need it least.
    agreed
    it was just a temp fix

  9. #9

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    Got the problem fixed. I checked all my wires and seems like some of the boots were too far down and not letting it get a good connection. I grabbed some needle nose and pulled them out a little, hooked em up and slid the boots back down. Started right up after that. My next problem to fix is a hanging idle after pressing the gas and the motor running on the hot side. The fan shroud isnt on because i forgot about it. Could that be the problem for the running hot issue.

  10. #10



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    Running hot is fan shroud, bad T stat, bad fan clutch, water pump, or plugged rad.
    I would start with the shroud.
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  11. #11

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    Okay, ill put that back on today. Where do i find a radiator? Ive looked but havent really seen anything.

  12. #12

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    I have a few b2200s and I got my radiators from advance auto. I believe they have aluminum radiators online for a little more. The 2600 and 2200 **should** use the same but I'm not sure. Watch out though I got a plastic one on accident once

  13. #13

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    Temp level fixed, running nice and cool now. I appreciate all the help.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by t97 View Post
    I have a few b2200s and I got my radiators from advance auto. I believe they have aluminum radiators online for a little more. The 2600 and 2200 **should** use the same but I'm not sure. Watch out though I got a plastic one on accident once
    Mine has the g54b motor in it. Not sure if the take the same radiator as the motor mazda started using.

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