Weber carb help

[85Ram50]

OK Then I reversed a lot of things yet its improved how it runs?? I wonder what I fixed? Today I got it to idle by using the lean best idle method. It was warm enough out the choke was fully open when I started. It loped badly with the mixture screw out 2 turns. I ended up with it in to about 3/4 turn. I test drove it and it was great on the flat under 40. Accelerating to Hwy speed on a hill it backfired as second gear wound up near 35ish (it used to go to 50 and not even complain) and it backfired in the carb. It did it again in 3rd gear near the top of winding out also well below where it used to go. It was doing this before I rebuilt it apparently switching the primary/secondary jets.) I got home and changed the timing to be faster as it was loping a bit. This left me with the mixture screw at 1/4 turn or less and the timing advanced past the mark I think I remember reading before. 5BTDC. I washed it and cleaned it up then did the same trip over the hill and it still backfired (smaller) yet it had more power in 4th as it kept accelerating as it climbed in 4th. This thing used to have tons of torque to pull up hills. Any suggestions on how to proceed? I'm disturbed by your information Pennyman1. I wonder if I shouldn't just order these jets as Geez linked to and install them????? Here are the the jetting sizes for a 32/36 DGAV relating to a 2000cc engine- Main jet - (primary throat) 1.35 (secondary throat) 1.30 Air Correction - (primary throat) 1.75 (secondary throat) 1.45 Emulsion tube - (primary throat) F50 (secondary throat) F66 Idle jet (primary throat) 0.50 (secondary throat) 0.50 Idle air (primary throat) 1.50 (secondary throat) 0.70 I wonder what changed since it ran so well before I broke the balancer belt and kept driving it not knowing that is what happened. I only discovered that after I blew the head gasket in an overheat. I've posted for a radiator fan shroud in Wanted.

[geezer101]

I have a suspicion that it's all coming down to tuning. If it was running great before you took the head off, and the carb was set up correctly then it's the only factor that has changed. Seeming you don't have a tach fitted then the nearest reference you will have is watching for the point where the secondary opens with the engine running and adjusting the distributor as per my previous post.

[85Ram50]

No it was running well until there was a big bang while hauling a heavy load on a hill many many years ago. The head blew about 2 summers back. I expect that bang was when the balancer belt blew. I figured the noise wasn't important as the motor did not stall, I had no idea there was a balancer belt. It had noticeably less power since then. It is better now but nothing like what it was. I expect it will be down to tuning. I don't think I can float over it and see into the carb while turning the dist I'll keep playing at it. At least it didn't diesel when I shut it off this last time.

[geezer101]

You should be able to see the linkages moving on the side of the carb so you won't have to put your face over the throats and scorch your eyebrows I think you were lucky the engine didn't experience catastrophic damage but it's unusual that it is still down on power after repairs.

[85Ram50]

OK I think I get it.

[85Ram50]

Good morning. Another report with ambiguous results.
Good news first, after all your help has helped
It started first try. That hasn't happened since I first "rebuilt" it about 7 or 8 years ago.
Dynamic timing; I held the linkage open, I didn't get close to the secondary kicking in but it had to be doing a lot more than 2k rpms. I fiddled with the dist and it didn't quite suddenly gain rpms but it did hit a spot where it would start to make the motor jump. I found the cross point as best I could and tested it. It ran up over the hill and did really well. Still not living up to my memory which I am starting to suspect is rose colored. So to justify all this work and money I went to get a load of gravel and it carried it home without any hesitation in the motor.
Now some things I did and noticed. The temp gauge has quit on me. The sensor is new when I did the head, and I was saving this for later the dash electrics tend to work intermittently this is mainly a problem with making turns. I never noticed the temp sensor quit before.
Since finding out I had the carb reversed, on a whim I stuck the screw driver in the Primary Idle jet and it was loose !!? I am sure I tightened it. I had added a O ring as it had none. Anyway when I turned it in the idle picked up! It is fully in now. So it does affect how the carb runs and now I think I would have to floor it to get the secondary to kick in to have turning that side adjust at all. Don't want to do that it sounded wound out just holding it to dynamic time it.

Another thing is you might notice in the pics I posted there is a spring I added for return on the linkage. It seems more responsive and starts out from a stop better with it off which made me wonder why I was using it. Then on my way home from the gravel pickup it started idling very high at stops. When I got home prepared to mess with it more I noticed the linkage had not fully returned.??? I'm sure that is another can of worms Yippee.

[85Ram50]

When I said first rebuilt "it" I meant the carb.

[geezer101]

Try a squirt of WD40 on the linkages and throttle - see if that helps. Might be binding just a tiny bit. The spring was there to get it to return off throttle so maybe try a lighter spring (it 'shouldn't' really make a difference but we've heard that before). You don't want to get bitten by a stuck throttle

[85Ram50]

OK I came to me as I lay in bed last night that the primary would be the side that the gas squirted into first. So I looked this morning and the side away from the head is the side that gets the gas first. So that should be primary no? If so the changes I made were correct.
I am going to start another thread to ask about the dash electrics and the Temp gauge. It's also developed a leak from the grill between the hood and the windshield. IDK what the correct name for it is. Maybe I'll just make one thread with a list of all the issues that don't stop it but make it less nice to use that I can think of.
Thank you Geez and Pennyman. I'll post back here to update in a while. I'm gonna work out the gauges and turn signals in another thread.

[Wote]

what are you setting the timing to? and are you sure you followed the correct timing belt install on here, not the manual? That is the #1 cause of poor performance with the G63b, the belt being off 1 tooth.

Pennyman, I've been searching and I can't locate this resource. I feel like I have the dumb, can you link me?

[85Ram50]

Pennyman, I've been searching and I can't locate this resource. I feel like I have the dumb, can you link me?

I think this might be the page
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2258-G63B-2-0L-Cam-Timing-Mark

To answer you Pennyman1 I am pretty sure I got the timing marks and idler pulley correct. I watched many many videos, I think you gave me advice here and I had my Haynes. I used it today and it ran pretty good, not as good as my memory of it when I first got it. Anyway when I get back to working on it I might recheck that I have the timing belt and distributor installed correctly. As I remember now there was a mark on both the cam gear and the block on the left. Camoits pic doesn't show any marking on the block to line the cam mark up with.

[Wote]

Hey 85ram50, kind of unrelated but what's that throttle cable attachment (to the carb) in your first set of pictures? I haven't seen one like that and it looks 100% better than the shit-bolt that I've got.

[85Ram50]

Hey 85ram50, kind of unrelated but what's that throttle cable attachment (to the carb) in your first set of pictures? I haven't seen one like that and it looks 100% better than the shit-bolt that I've got.

I got it at an independent auto store. Told the guy what I had and that's what he gave me. The end piece pops off the linkage so you can move it out of the way with no wrench. It's actually really cheap and took me a while to get it set where it would work and not pop off. It is very similar to this though it was a lot cheaper. Now that I think about it I probably modified it so it would suit me. I think I drilled something out and used a larger screw. On mine the body is alum and that clip at the end is stainless or possibly chrome plated. It may have come in a kit with other parts. If you can't find one I'll go down there and find out what I bought so you can have it ordered.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-S-1034-Carburetor-End-Adapter-Linkage-for-Lokar-Throttle-Cable-/400805193036?hash=item5d51d9e54c:g:eAgAAOSwQPlV-G3m&vxp=mtr

[85Ram50]

I just found this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-We...-/201426105250 The piece in the upper right corner is what I have on the end of my throttle cable and the piece it connects to on my carb looks a lot like the piece in the lower right corner. I do not recall spending that much money on it.