OK that makes the attitude I remember on the phone make more sense. Redlines high res pic of the expanded breakdown isn't working. I'm waiting for the pressure regulator to arrive. I will install it and see what that does before I alter anything else.
OK that makes the attitude I remember on the phone make more sense. Redlines high res pic of the expanded breakdown isn't working. I'm waiting for the pressure regulator to arrive. I will install it and see what that does before I alter anything else.
If you belt timing marks are lined up correctly then it'll all come down to the distributor (and the idle speed adjustment seeming you are having problems taming the idle rpm). The pressure regulator should help a heap with the other running issues.
I got the pressure regulator installed. Dang I am not on my game I had to try several times and lost one self tapping screw before I figured out to put the nipple on the carb in the other side. It idles a lot lower and seems to do good at low speeds. It still doesn't do well when punching it or on hills. It feels like its flooding when I do that still. When I first got it this thing had power and torque on all inclines.
I looked up redline weber http://www.redlineweber.com/ the page is sort of IDK pointless as most of the links don;t work for me. I just called to ask about setting the carb up and about rebuild kits and the guy tells me "we don't sell anything" When I asked what the point of his website was he well he spoke but since i have no answer in my mind he clearly did not answer me. He said Cars unlimited sells reline stuff and some other joint. I searched cars unlimited and a lot of people use that name. Nothing obviously a car parts or carb store.
I found this page http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tec...lean_best_.htm and I am going to try it and to get my timing at I think its supposed to be 5btdc. I really cannot make out the marks very well I did see that the TDC mark is to the left of where I marked the timing belt cover in silver sharpie. I am going to say that is probably the correct timing mark as that is the sort of thing I would do instead of marking TDC and then having to figure out the correct position.
I looked up setting the choke on here yesterday and when I went out there my choke won't let the butterfly close. I can close it by hand but it comes open when I let go. I took it off and the pin that sticks out will only travel half of that semi circle it pokes out of. I suspect I may have put the carb back together improperly. Let me know if this sounds right I am going to try to set that timing on that mark and do lean best idle.
Oh yea he said they dealt in technical support. ?? But he didn't have any comprehension whey I was confused by the website. It certainly doesn't explicitly say that is what it is for.
OK I have had some success. I messed with the timing and the lean best idle instructions mostly tuning by ear after I knew I was on by the timing light. It has gone much better this second test drive but its a bad time of day lots of traffic. I did get to punch it and try to wind it out in all gears as like it used to but as it topped out at the top of 1 and 2 it started making a funny noise like something was not happy. It also has a clunk in it like an old motor cept this one only has 111K on it. I think that may be due to when I overheated and blew the head.
It went up the big hill a lot better I didn't feel like it was flooding at all. I could probably have accelerated through 60 if that jerk in front of me had a life.
Humour me by trying out a dynamic ignition tune as per my earlier post. As the Weber is an all mechanical secondary carb I think if you can nail the rpm range where the second throat opens up, you should get a good improvement in midrange power upwards. Glad it's running a whole lot better now. These things try our patience...
OK I'll have to look into getting an RPM guage then. Have no idea how to hook one up. Always lernin huh?
If you know anyone with a dwell meter they come with a built in tach. There isn't a lot of demand for a dwell/tach meter these days but if you're working on old school they still come in handy.
Went and got this http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-aut...kit-95670.html It is pretty useless as a tach. It read 25 when I hooked it up and it was at best 900. I messed with it anyway and screwed up my gains. I will get back to it tomorrow after I get my money back on that tool.
Looks like I need to rebuild the carb as I made a mistake last time. I will have to wait until I get a real tach to do the dynamic tune Geez.
You know what's causing it to run poorly now - it won't take much to get it to a point where you'll be real happy with it.
I searched on YT “rebuild WEBER carb 32/36 dg” and it brought up a lot of stuff. I found this guy who has 4 vids and I think I know what is wrong with the Carb aside from me probably putting the choke together wrong. I had no idea the jets and emulsion tubes and the jets that hold them in were sized. I think that goes for the two items he screws into the sides as well apparently his carb was rebuilt by someone like me who had no idea these parts were not the same, as all his jets and stuff were in the wrong place too. I’ve ordered the kit Pennyman gave me the link to and I hope by the time it arrives I find enough info on doing this to get it right. I may need a magnifying glass to read the jets.
This guy is very informative.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v-Dn_G3YxA
Geez the light was perfect this morning and I got the timing dead on the mark. I was right I did mark the setting not TDC. I see no point in messing with the carb adjustments any longer until I rebuild it properly.
I took the carb out and I have taken it apart. It is as I suspected. The jets were off. The primary is 155 and it was in the secondary slot the secondary is 140. The two jets that hold the emulsion tubes in were also in the wrong slots. The correct slots 170 Primary and 160 secondary. The emulsion tubes have thrown me since they are both F50!? IDK what to make of that as the primary is supposed to be larger by quite a bit according to that video. There are two jets on opposite sides that the guy called "idler jets" anyway only one had a o ring and they were oddly shaped so they only went into the correct hole. I've added a pic. The fatter one was is on the primary side. jets on side.jpg
I've cleaned it up and just waiting for the new rebuild kit as the diaphragm for the pump broke had to sand off the gasket materiel its made of.
So is the Emulsion tubes being the same right? Should I get a different one for the primary?
O.k. I posted up jetting sizes in relation to a 2 litre engine as taken from a Weber tuning hand book by Pat Braden- check out the link
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post44111
...elsupremo used these jetting specs and they were on the money.
I looked at the picture above the specs and the two in the pics would be the idle jets according to that picture. They have no size numbers on them. As for the rest of the sizes the ones I list are what it had when I bought it and until I rebuilt it it worked fine. As I mentioned I had no idea the parts that were so similar had differences.
So the main jets must be at the bottom of the bowl, the air correction jets must be the ones on top of the emulsion tubes.
I just noticed the 50 on the secondary idle jet on the right in the pic. I'll look closer at the primary idle jet for a mark. Let me know if I worked out the part names correctly.
I'l paste a copy of that pst here for anyone who comes here in future
Here are the the jetting sizes for a 32/36 DGAV relating to a 2000cc engine-
Main jet - (primary throat) 1.35
(secondary throat) 1.30
Air Correction - (primary throat) 1.75
(secondary throat) 1.45
Emulsion tube - (primary throat) F50
(secondary throat) F66
Idle jet (primary throat) 0.50
(secondary throat) 0.50
Idle air (primary throat) 1.50
(secondary throat) 0.70
*bearing in mind that the venturis are the right diameter for your engine, this is only a base line guide.
I've used 'primary' instead of the term 'progressive' - I think it's easier to understand. And the jetting seems to be too big for your engine, especially the main jets (the above chart shows the primary main being the bigger jet)
This morning I went out and looked at the primary Idle jet again with the magnifyer and it has a 60 on it. I think this carb might be something a little different. I'm not sure if it matters so I took so pics of the body It was made in Spain stamped on the bottom half and I've taken a pic of the stamped numbers. DGAV 33B and either a partial 7 or 1DGAV33B.jpg the other spot next to it is stamped 157 01 Made inSpain.jpg
I noticed a piece of plastic on the cloth under the bottom half of the carb when I set on its bottom after taking the pic. It is longish and L shaped along most of its length. IDK where it goes. I picked up the top to look at its stamp and when I turned it float down the rectangular piece with a slot in it fell out. It is made of the same plastic but stained darker.
Any help on where they go? The Redline Weber site high res diagram link does not open and they have not returned my call about it since yesterday afternoon. two parts fell out.jpg
Thanks guys you are priceless.
I've found the expanded parts diagram on this site. I'm printing it. The two parts are the dust plate and dust plate plug. Still no idea where they go. Also I mentioned previously that the choke did not move along its full range I found out that the adjustment screw was blocking it. ???? I guess I'll figure out how to set it properly once I reinstall.
I have the kit and am installing it slowly. I need to know where the dust plate and dust plate plug go. Can anyone assist?
Figured it out. Pics The first one shows the plate plug partially in its spot and the plate cover on the bottom of the slot it goes in. The second one shows the plate cover in place inside the choke linkage slot to the top butterfly's. You have to look close up. It is a pressure fit.
Plate plug.jpgplate cover in place.jpg
Italian kit made in UK.jpgFunny it's an Italian kit with this in it. I assume the narrow section goes on the secondary side but am unsure. The carb is back together. The float is set at 35mm or 1&12/32" with gasket per the instructions. More research I'll be back to report.
I started it and it ran awful. I had set the choke to fully closed (its in the 60'sF here) then I adjusted it to be open about 1/8th inch. This got me started it stayed at idle so I drove it around the block to warm it up. I had to over gas it many times to keep it going. It died once I stopped and I couldn't keep it going. I had the mixture screw at two turns out and the idle speed screw at 1/2 turn after touching. It finally started running better as I screwed the mixture screw in. It did best all the way in !!?? I drove it and it had great throttle response almost as good as I remember it was when I bought it. When I stopped it dieseled. So of course I tried adjusting it and it started loping and not wanting to run. I have it at the mixture screw 1/2 turn out and the idle speed screw is probably two turns after touching. Any advice?
I'm burned out. I will start again tomorrow as the rain has begun.
Oh yea that oddly narrowed end of the made in England spacer was self determining as the Weber spacer has the same oval hole smaller at one end. It did go to the secondary side.
I think I need to do this http://www.carburetion.com/mixtureadj.htm I had no idea those jets were adjustable!
Forgot to mention the dust plate did not go in that slot. It was jamming up the coke so I took it out. That pretty much destroyed it even though I removed the C clip. I would guess it is supposed to be slipped over that arm before the top is put on and ride loosely.
actually the secondary is the larger side of the gasket - 32 is the primary side, 36 is the secondary. One book I have for webers states that the primary barrel should be closest to the head for best performance - I have mounted these carbs both ways and have noticed no difference in performance.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
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