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Thread: Front end guidance

  1. #1

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    Front end guidance

    Hey folks how is everyone doing, so I noticed my pickup wearing the insides of my front tires. Took her in to get an alignment and I expected things needing to be replaced but the guy told me pretty much everything needs replaced here is the list control arm shaft (both), he only has 2 ball joints listed, all 4 look really rough, he only has one inner tie rod listed, both outer tie rods and the pitman arm. Has anybody done all these? The ball joints all look to be pressed in is that true and do you guys think I should do all this or is he just up selling me. He said my control arm shaft is so wore out he couldn't even attempt to align it. Thoughts, advice or opinions?

  2. #2

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    It's a 35+ year old truck. All too often PO's think they only need to check the holes fluids go into and not to mix them up or bad things happen. Things wear out - it's the nature of the beast. The joints would've been lucky to get a blast of grease in the last 2 decades. Take heed of the advice members here have on offer in regards to what to buy as they've all had good and bad experiences with parts and will 'steer' you in the right direction. A comprehensive rebuild will take the slop out of the steering, fix your wheel alignment woes and will make your truck sooo much nicer to drive. I had an earlier model wagon same as the Dodge Colt and the front end was shot. It ate tyres and handled like a three legged goat on crack. Big part of the problem was a bent LCA but after I rectified that, beefed the suspension and rebuilt the entire front end it carved through turns like a champ.

  3. #3



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    the upper ball joints are pressed in, the lowers bolt on. Get a set of urethane LCA bushings and strut rod bushings also. The UCA shafts originally had no way to grease them, so they wear out - easy to replace.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  4. #4

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    Okay so I will be ordering all that stuff from RockAuto it is much cheaper than oreilly's. Probably going to be a weekend job and I don't have a garage so I will be rolling around the dirt doing it. Lol

    on an up and up note my bada$$ headers from Dom showed up today and I will be using the VHT ceramic coating on them and heat wrap after that then hopefully installing them this weekend. Just need to get a bolt to plug the O2 bung but that's easy peasy.

    Also so I know at this point it is pretty much beating a dead horse but I have some conclusions I need verified on my Weber 32/36 install. I have looked in many threads for the info this is just for verification. So when installing my Webber all I must have is the fuel feed line and the distributor advance vacuum line and I can remove all the other emissions crap?

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by 541d50 View Post
    ...So when installing my Webber all I must have is the fuel feed line and the distributor advance vacuum line and I can remove all the other emissions crap?
    Yep. Just make sure that if you disconnect anything that pulls vacuum from the inlet manifold, you cap it off. you can even go as far as removing the EGR valve on the inlet manifold and making a small block off plate to seal the galleries (depending on what EGR system is fitted you your engine...)

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