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Thread: new weber installed, wont start

  1. #1

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    new weber installed, wont start

    I got a redline weber carb kit from pierce manifolds. I got it about 3 mos ago and just now had time to work on it, however, browsing through this MB and all that I can find I don't understand why the truck won't start now that its all installed. I have included some pics that I took. The one of the closed choke at the throat is to show the half-burnt gas residue accumulated after trying to start the truck

    Carb is definitely getting fuel, I installed an elec. Fuel pump and everything is good there

    When I go to start it (so I can set the carb.) It acts like it wants to catch, backfires, then wont even try to catch until I wait a few and cycle it again. Any input?

    Truck is '88 2wd ram50. G63B eng manual trans.

  2. #2

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    OK so I don't know how to attactch pics to this forum so pm me and I can email them if they're needed :-\

  3. #3

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    Also, all base settings for the carb are exactly as outlined in the manual for idle speed and mixture screw

  4. #4



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    If it's backfiring through the carb it is advanced to much.
    It should do something even if it runs like crap to start with.

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  5. #5

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    OK so do have any corrective suggestions?
    I bought this truck for a song, some kid was trying to fix her up and honestly fubar'd more than he fixed.

    As I got it it had 0 power after 1/4 throttle bogged sucked fuel and dieseled like crazy when shutting it down. After browsing this forum I decided it best to just swap out the mikuni. Because the secondary diaphragm was trash, the float was full of fuel etc etc etc. After a Lil looking I thought it best to put the redline weber on it.

    It ran when I pulled the mikuni off (although horribly)
    And I have installed my weber and I am now dead in the water, could it be that in order to make it run the guy advanced the timing hugely to compensate for the damn near 1:1 fuel\air ratio it was getting?

  6. #6

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    was on tablet and needed the desktop site ver.

    Anyways when i got the truck it did run, barely. No power in mid-upper range, dieseld like crazy when shut off and every other common problem talked about on this forum, with everything i found wrong with the mikuni amd its related systems i found it better and cheaper to just go with the redline weber carb.
    Now im
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  7. #7



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    If it has a belt then the timing should be checked.
    If it has the chain then start by re-timing the engine distributor and plugs. Always start with the basic and work from there.
    Also a compression test would be good.
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  8. #8



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    Might do a compression test also. Just to see what she has left in her. Backfiring out carb if it still does it can be a bad sign. Jumped belt, time way off, burnt valve. When backfiring out carb, your engine is not sealing the combustion completely when the spark plug lights the fuel. The open valve allows the explosion to leak backwards out the carb and could cause a nasty flame to show up. You will have 2 rubber timing belts, one for cam, crank and idler, and one for balancer, crank and oil pump. I might of missed a connection there, but you will have 2 belts, one small and one larger. You also have a non-interference engine, so a broken belt will not crash pistons into valves.

  9. #9

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    So I finally got to mess with the truck and started looking over the eng and thought about it being advanced too much as suggested, being that it can be very likely the previous owner did that so it would run with being flooded and choked. Anyways I look at the dizzy and immediately noticed that it is cranked as far as it will go to the right

    Think this could be it? Lol. Hopefully
    Will reply back in a few

  10. #10

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    Dizzy was cranked all the way to the right, I adjusted it back about half way and now it's really trying but dies after about 10-20 revs. This is definitely frustrating as the truck was running albeit crappy now it can't start

  11. #11

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    Now that I've pulled back the advance she will run for about 30sec then die.

    Like she's starving for fuel I can keep her going by either continually making the power valve squirt or by using my hand and blocking the airflow


    Smh. So apparently I have a bad leak. And this isn't good considering all vac lines and ports are connected or capped. I really don't have the money for this -_-

  12. #12



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    Turn out the mix screws to give it some fuel and open the throttle plate or speed up the idle..
    It just takes time. You are starting out from scratch. You can't expect it just to work out of the box.
    Don't be surprised if other things pop up.
    It;s just a process of elimination.
    Air, fuel, timing, and compression they all need to work together to make it go.
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  13. #13

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    I hear ya. Right now I have the mix screw out 2 full turns. Any less and it dies. Manual from redline says 1.5turn max. If I increase the idle speed it gets to where she done even want to start. I think I may take the rest of the day off from it.

  14. #14



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    sounds like a massive air leak - pull the carb, take off the adaptor plates, and then reassemble them using gasket sealer, then the carb.
    Pennyman1
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  15. #15

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    That was my next step, take off carb and adapter plates and see if reassembly with a little gasket maker would help. If that don't do it I guess it on to the manifold :-/

  16. #16

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    I really appreciate the input y'all.

  17. #17

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    Hey, do y'all think that if I had overtightened the adapter plate bolts before installing the carb I would have this issue? Just a thought because I got to thinking about that and flipping through the install manual and remembered their bolt offset. Seems toe that if I had overtightened those bolts even just a lil bit, one if not both plates could be a little warped.
    What do y'all think?

  18. #18



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    that is a possibility, as well as stripping the holes on the manifold. It only needs to be tight - no need to torque it like a wheel.
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  19. #19



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    Avoid the use of any clear silicone. It melts and will gum up the valves.
    I never recommend the use of silicone on the intake except for water jackets.
    I use the gasket and a light coating of anti-seize. That way it comes off the next time.
    You must have missed a vacuum port or the brake booster is leaking bad.
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  20. #20

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    Bingo! I bet it is the booster, it needs to be changed and I forgot all about it for the time I've been swapping carbs. I'll check it in the am
    Thanks guys!

  21. #21



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    There is also The MCA jet valve. They have a tendency to create all sorts of strange problems
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