I mean tore apart intake and MAF not MAD stupid autocorrect
I mean tore apart intake and MAF not MAD stupid autocorrect
My head is pretty much spinning right now going between what I'm thinking is your truck & what I know my car is, and trying to remember past issues (~275k miles on it takes a bit to remember problems of the past, lol) but maybe something here will help you: http://www.3swiki.org/Engine:_Adjust...nsor_%28TPS%29 there are things you can do w/the engine OFF but the key in the ON position --- but I do NOT know exactly what you're working on so hoping I'm not sending you to a wrong direction. Hoping even if that's not 'exactly' what you've got under the hood the concepts should be close enough to the same to point you in a good direction to diagnose any TPS issue instead of guess.
When my ptu went bad, omg, there was this beautiful sports car that sounded worse than a lawn mower - no exaggeration - funny now but then it was frustrating as heck. Glad to see you not just throwing parts at it (or just going mad cutting hoses hahaha, been thereYou'll get it
Sorry Chyrio... the cell just shat the bed in the middle of our 'talk'... I will ring You up later.
So i think i found the issue... idk what some idiot dumped in the fuel tank but damn.... might need to take the injectors out and replace/clean them.
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That looks like water. And it has been there for a long time. Yep, that'll screw up how the engine is running - you can try adding methylated spirits to the fuel to force the water into solution. Afterwards add a good quality injector cleaner and fingers crossed it will sort it out.
I just wonder how it got in there? The seals are good around the fuel level thing, and the fuel pump and as far as I can tell the tank hasn't been compromised, as well as the filler neck is in tact and not ripped. Maybe some idiot dumped some mixture of fuel and water in it a long time ago.Originally Posted by geezer101
I'm gonna drop the tank and clean it out and take the injectors out and inspect. I have until Thursday when my new denso fuel pump gets here.
Condensation is one way. And country fuel supplies were notorious for having water in their storage tanks. Don't know if it as much an problem now but it happens...
My understanding is that one of the horrors of ethynol is it attracts moisture. That's one reason to use fuel additives that remove moisture, or seek out filling stations that serve real 100% gasoline.
The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.
I use shell or chevron exclusively. Might settle for Conoco if I have to. Sad thing is I just put 5 gallons of 90 octane and some injector cleaner in that tank for trouble shooting. Debating about getting one of those fuel filter things that filter out water to conserve the fuel I dumped in there.
Pull the plug and let it all drain out.
I just dropped the tank and pressure washed the inside of it. And cleaned the outside it wasn't that hard to get out and since the old nasty stuff settled to the bottom I was able to pull out most of the good fuel with the old pump before I drained the tank. Letting the tank dry out in my garage right now. commencing removal of injectors now.
alright this is just disgusting. it looks like my engine has a disease... I'm gonna take the heads off and clean them out, replace the head gaskets, valve stems, and seals while I'm at it. doesnt seem like that much of a challenge this engine is so freaking easy to work on. does anyone have a link to a guide that shows the deletion of emissions stuff? AK doesn't require it.
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I only buy the good stuff! ha ha
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Might as well throw in a new pump and strainer while you are in there.
i ordered it last week since that's what i suspect is what is bad. it will be here Wednesday i think. but the rest of the parts wont be here til like the 25th so i have some time to kill. honestly besides the horrible nasty fuel buildup of whatever was in the tank this engine is in great shape. the head gaskets where not bad the timing belt and water pump where in pretty good shape accept some idiot decided to use red rtv all over everything. its the little things about this engine that make me think the previous owner took care of it but used the cheapest stuff he could when doing maintenance. does this engine have a front main seal that is easily replacable while I'm in there? the oil pump seal on the crank looks pretty good and is not leaking but if there is a front main back there i would consider replacing it since i have the time and its already all torn down.
some pics of the progress:
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Parts are rolling in!! looks like its gonna be a while before my timing belt will get here though. sometimes i hate living in AK.
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Well, your last post shows it pretty tore down, but I'll give you what I know anyway, since I happen to own a V6 truck and have done lots of troubleshooting myself.
Since you say that you have spark I'll assume that your ICM is fine, but you have to make double sure that your plug wires are in the correct order. Unlike almost every other engine (in my experience at least), the 6G72 cap has the rotor contacts in different locations than the wire terminals. If you look on the inside of the cap you'll notice that there are raised portions leading from the wire terminals to the rotor contacts. The cap should be wired 6-4-5-3-1-2, clockwise, starting from the terminal closest to the oil fill cap. Despite that, the firing order is actually 1-2-3-4-5-6 (as you probably know). When you put the distributor back in, the rotor should be pointing directly at the firewall at TDC #1.
If that isn't your issue (it was mine at one point, and the symptoms matched yours pretty well), you can eliminate the ECU as your problem by hooking up a noid light to an injector plug to make sure that they are in fact getting pulse. That's all I got. That bad fuel you found couldn't have been helping anything, and it never hurts to clean up an old motor. Hope you get it back on the road without much more trouble
Wow, sure have a build up of muck on those pistons. Makes me wonder how much more compression you get with that, lol.
With emission removal, your going to have some freaky stuff happening with the computer if you just start removing items.
On the 4 cylinder (which hardly compares to a v6) The weber helped remove several items and it gives a pretty good explanation in there installation guide. We have a free Weber manual here on forum also if needed at anytime. Then the header installation removed the other half of emission stuff. Your V6 will probably be a little intense and it might be a good idea to remove a little and try it, then repeat the process as you go along. Someone here must know a little more about this and I hope will probably chime in to give their thoughts.
Most the time when removing that crap is to be sure you cap off those removed items which isn't hard to remember, but with so much controlled by those computer boxes it is hard to give anything specific.
that was one of my thoughts but i triple checked my orientation before i tore it down. and at first i jacked it up just like you said then i fixed it and made sure all the plug wires go to the corrosponding cylinder. but after seeing the intake manifold i just decided screw it and tore everything apart. replacing everything i could and did the best i could with a plastic scraper to clean the carbon and muck of the cylinders. would have had it back together by now but rockauto lost my parts and shipped me a new set friday so i should have progress this weekend when the head gasket and the timing kit get here thursday. but i still need to get a valve spring compressor to take the heads apart then im going to steam clean them at my buddies shop. hopefully not to much longerWell, your last post shows it pretty tore down, but I'll give you what I know anyway, since I happen to own a V6 truck and have done lots of troubleshooting myself.
Since you say that you have spark I'll assume that your ICM is fine, but you have to make double sure that your plug wires are in the correct order. Unlike almost every other engine (in my experience at least), the 6G72 cap has the rotor contacts in different locations than the wire terminals. If you look on the inside of the cap you'll notice that there are raised portions leading from the wire terminals to the rotor contacts. The cap should be wired 6-4-5-3-1-2, clockwise, starting from the terminal closest to the oil fill cap. Despite that, the firing order is actually 1-2-3-4-5-6 (as you probably know). When you put the distributor back in, the rotor should be pointing directly at the firewall at TDC #1.
If that isn't your issue (it was mine at one point, and the symptoms matched yours pretty well), you can eliminate the ECU as your problem by hooking up a noid light to an injector plug to make sure that they are in fact getting pulse. That's all I got. That bad fuel you found couldn't have been helping anything, and it never hurts to clean up an old motor. Hope you get it back on the road without much more trouble
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