Glass fuses: what if I pull 1 out at a time? TMI sorry

[geezer101]

As far as I know the only thing you need to be aware of when installing LED's are the fact that they are polarity sensitive. Meaning if you don't install them correctly they won't do their funky thing. As you won't be using them as indicators you shouldn't need to have a load resistor fitted to them or an electronic relay as they draw such a low amount of current. You know when someone has installed LED's for indicators and haven't put a load module onto the circuit - they blink like christmas tree lights lol

...whoa, just had a thought while putting this post up - will LED's in the indicator dash lights mess with the indicator relay?

[tink]

As far as I know the only thing you need to be aware of when installing LED's are the fact that they are polarity sensitive. Meaning if you don't install them correctly they won't do their funky thing. As you won't be using them as indicators you shouldn't need to have a load resistor fitted to them or an electronic relay as they draw such a low amount of current. You know when someone has installed LED's for indicators and haven't put a load module onto the circuit - they blink like christmas tree lights lol

...whoa, just had a thought while putting this post up - will LED's in the indicator dash lights mess with the indicator relay?

Ah, I found the yellow part: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post22992

see that thread for the reason(s) to use it I'm not sure if it's directly for how you'll be using the LEDs, but just in case best to make sure

[geezer101]

O.k. that confirmed my suspicion on indicators freaking out but that member was running an MM with electronics and not neanderthal tech like the '84. As your intention isn't to change the external body lights to LED's I don't think you'll need the resistors but at least we know how to solve any issues with an LED swap if it comes into play.

[tink]

I need help understanding why the alternator listed for the truck shows 45 AMPs, regardless of brand, but all the AMPs added together in the factory manual for the fuse block under the dash add up to:
48.7 AMPs (normal load),
30.3 AMPs (intermittent load), and
79 AMPs (Max load).
FUSES_FROM_FACTORY_MAN.jpg
I realize all the loads don't get added together, but even ust looking at the normal load of 48.7 AMPs -- how in the heck is a 45 AMP alternator going to keep up with the AMPs the truck uses. And that's just the math for the fuses under the dash in that fuse block , certainly there are even more fuses throughout the vehicle... should I get an alternator rated at a higher AMP or what???

After the kid brings the truck back home I'm going to look at the alternator that's in there now and see exactly how many AMPs it shows on the alternator itself.

Or am I being stupid and am missing something basic without realizing it again? Because it seems to me if gauges and lights are going to be added, maybe a bigger alternator is needed first

[BradMph]

It doesn't keep up well at all. That's why many of us upgraded to 100amp. I noticed right off my headlights were alot brighter with an upgraded Alt.

Depending on your trucks year, you can upgrade using the 100amp Mitsubishi Van or Starion /Conquest. The plugs will need to be changed on 1st gen trucks only.

[tink]

Thanks so much for the answer & the pics, too! That stock alt sure did feel small compared to the other one out of the car, dang it, a lot lighter. I'll have to put a new beefer one on the darn list. I should've done the math before, just didn't know I was being short-sighted Now I'll think about switching the voltmeter gauge so it's not 'always' on.

On a serious note I do have a 110 AMP alternator maybe I could borrow from the 3000gt. Not sure what the connections are on it, and would have to learn about the plug change & find pros/cons for what dif. plugs do to that tiny little engine in the truck. Hate to start borrowing from the car though...it's a slippery slope... maybe from the other truck I think it's got a 60 AMP alternator in it - which is at least better than a 45, but that's on the f250, so IDK!

I'll have to think about it, figure out the priorities for this year - the money on electrical upgrades really should be spent on the body & interior issues - the body is screaming at me for attention... and the interior is so so sad. I promised the guys if they didn't wreck the little truck over the winter that I'd fix the body up & paint it. So far everyone has been pulled over in it except me & my turns coming. Cop said it looked stolen. It's really ugly, ha!

Its time I guess for a new wish list, not just a replacement list, but upgrades! Like shocks, haha, now I'm thinking I better go through the forum & see what kind to get before I just get what rockauto or the parts counter guy says fits. Exasperated now.

[tink]

Well I must be more stubborn than realized since this amp thing has bugged me every day since, been kicking myself. BF said 'make a list' so I am. Went out and got 2 generic fuse blocks today. Looking around to see what else I need to still buy that's not already around the house. Found the switches & relays at 2 different auto part stores today, still cheaper online.

ZERO help from my usual parts store, god asking electrical questions gets bad reactions from the guys there. Today I got told I should have bought a Toyota so they could order stock replacements. Ugh, where's the fun in that? Zip customization. Hating being female today totally but whatever I figured everything out but one thing. I don't know what gauge wire to use to bridge the fuses together that need to be. Do I use the big size wire as the big wire going in before the buss bar in the old set up - or do I use the smaller gauge wire. After I get home I'll look and see what I can find out.

Also with the new higher AMP alternator do I *just* have to change plugs and wires or does the more powerful alternator affect the distributor at all? The coil? Usually it's a snow ball downhill lumping more things to do together with upgrades and that's my main hesitation on putting in a bigger alt. Then it's plugs then it's wires then it's distributor, coil, contacts, something wears out faster or can't handle the extra amps or maybe other stock wires/contacts/relays/switches/fuses need to be upgraded also. Like there's always a bottleneck somewhere in every system it's so hard to get the perfect balance of upgrades/mods.

I'm absolutely not messing with the charging system anymore - yet - but want to make sure I leave options open to do so in the future without having to undo & redo anything between then & now.

Happy to say the trucks been running & starting up fine even with short trips. Sure I still have a vacuum leak but still pouring rain so not messing with that for now. Rain for another 10 days... hate the Portland metro area this time of year. Still working on widening a double-door for truck access to work under-cover.

Putting in the new fuse blocks, figuring out what shocks the truck should have before I buy them, oh and bought a needle grease gun attachment to hopefully grease away some darn irritating squeaks.

[geezer101]

You won't have to upgrade any other wiring in the truck to take the big output alternator. Just the connections to hook the alternator up to the loom. Trust me that getting your electrics running solid is worth the effort. When a manufacturer designs a system for their vehicles, it is always over engineered as a safeguard (unless it's some nightmare built in China) so you can be assured you won't get any secondary faults from having more available amperage unless there is an actual existing fault with that part of the electrics. Having more available amperage will improve the starter motor, lights and relays performance.
And as for your local friendly ass hat behind the parts counter - "buy a Toyota?" Really?