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Thread: DESPERATE for help(charging system)

  1. #26

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    Only wires with voltage out from the head unit will be a blue remote trigger wire for the amp (which you've already figured out) and depending on the unit another signal wire for a power antenna. And they both should only have low voltage output when the head unit is in power on mode. Yup, you got a monster battery. That'll have enough juice to keep anything going as long as the alternator is up to it as well.

  2. #27

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    "two connections that have .03 volts and one 12 volts"...were detected in the "off" mode? if yes then the .03 volt is your issue (i'm guessing its probably the signal to turn the amp on so the amp is on all the time)...a simple fix would be an inline manual switch on the .03 volt feed or (a far more time consuming approach) trace the source & have it re-wired to be live only when in "on" (key turn activated) or if discovered the source is the radio then the radio would have to be re-wired to be live only when in "on" (key turn activated).

    as for the headlight "off ability" issue, due to the thin wiring (or high gauge #) there is no draw but you are certainly running a risk of electrical fire...to further comment on this issue I would need to see a schematic drawn of how it was done.

    hope this helps. peace

  3. #28

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    .03 V is a really negligible voltage drain but what is really strange that you're getting any voltage output with the head unit off. If the head unit is hooked up to a live circuit it should always have total system power present going into it but nothing out until it's on (the memory wire is always live 100% of the time so that will have a continuous current draw but not even close to causing any trouble).
    Why is the headlight circuit running a bypass? Your switch assembly got a fault?

  4. #29

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    I agree with geezer101 that .03 volts is negligible voltage drain, however, I strongly believe this .03 volt wire is turning the amp "on" thus allowing the amp to "pull" from the 12 volt source reading...which leads me to another question...is the amp warm (even the slightest minute amount) after the truck has been sitting in the "off" position? if yes then the amp is "pulling" from the 12 volt source.

  5. #30

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    yes that helps!
    the amp only gets warm after playing loud music for a while, never when its off.
    and for the switch i wanted to be able to turn off my headlights because of my charging issues, so i could take some load off of the alternator.

  6. #31

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    i went to lordco and asked about the montero alternator, they said they can get one and is 75 amps. now will that be enough to run my truck on a 4g64. or you guys got part numbers and years make model higher output alternators that you guys are running? (4g64 compatible)

  7. #32

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    I would be careful with the stereo on a stock alternator. Mine couldn't handle it. Eventually my alternator gave up. It won't charge at all. I have to boost it just drive it. And now I have to figure out what to replace it with.

  8. #33

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    I'm looking into using an alternator off a Hyundai engine. I can get them all day and they're all at least 90 amp output. Just have to find out if they're compatible with the pulley alignment and mount.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  9. #34

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    Anyone have an answer to the Montero alternator?

  10. #35




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    depends on the year Montero and the motor it is off of. If the mount is the same, you will just have to switch pulleys to match the v belts on your truck, and maybe change the plug on the harness, although your truck should match the new alternator. A starquest (Starion / Conquest) alternator is another choice -75 to 100 amp depending on year and model. There is also a Mitsubishi van alternator that is a direct bolt in - 75 amp minimum.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  11. #36

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    Yeah the shaft is a different size. Now I'm having trouble finding a different pulley.

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