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Thread: Thermostat position

  1. #1

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    Thermostat position

    So i put in a new thermostat and from some pics ive looked at it looks like i put the housing on wrong so now im wondering if maybe i installed the thermostat position wrong also. So i need to know if the air release valve goes in the 12 oclock or 6 oclock position, i currently have it in the 12 oclock.

  2. #2

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    Again, thanks to Komeuppence, and again citing my build thread:
    your thermostat orientation is correct with the bleed valve at the top, the sensor in the housing will not obstruct it from opening all the way.
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26505
    Should it be of any assistance to you, my build thread is http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...G64-5-spd-D-50 . It's sort of a mess, but the info is in there...and the process of my learning these engines.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  3. #3

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    Thanks again royster i got it all put together now but the engine is heating up really fast and i popped the radiator cap and once it gets hot the coolant in the radiator is still and not churning, i figure its a faulty thermostat even though its brand new. My last thermostat was stuck open i believe because the coolant churned from the moment i started my truck and now i think this nee one is stuck closed as the coolant is always still even at operating temp. Btw what is the normal temp on your gauge cluster once it was warmed up? I was at half in about 5 minutes..and as always thanks for the help and ill be checking out your build thread quite a bit

  4. #4

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    You can boil the thermostat in water in an old pot On the stove to see of it opens and closes. The thermostat needle should not go above half on the gage but usually stays at a quarter to half range Mark.

  5. #5

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    Make sure the thermostat isn't backwards...an easy mistake to make, as I recall. The valve needs to open toward the radiator. Be absolutely sure to use a new gasket with the install.

    The 4G64 warms up pretty quick, and if your radiator is dirty (inside or out) it can cause it to heat up and stay heated up. Once I back-flushed the inside and outside of my radiator, its normal operating temp is about 3/16" past the "normal" line.

    Bugs and dust have accumilated for years as the truck went down the road. Spraying water from the engine compartment towards the grill will likely dislodge lots of crap.

    As you'll see by my build thread, the Haynes manuals lack tons of info: thanks to MightyRam50 for this great community: we tend to save each others' asses!
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  6. #6

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    Well everything is installed correctly and i tested the thermostat and it is working properly but still when i pop the cap the coolant is not circulating and the upper rad hose is really hot, also now im smoking out of my tailpipe a lot....f%#k me everytime i fix something i have another problem

  7. #7

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    I'm not an expert, Tyler, so wait 'til a couple other members contribute...but to me it sounds like the water pump is shot.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  8. #8

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    If you can't see a torrent of coolant going past the radiator filler when it's completely warmed up, there could be 2 possibilities - #1 what Royster has suggested or #2 a very blocked radiator. There's always the possibility you bought a dud thermostat - it happens. Dropping it in hot water to see if the valve opens will eliminate that theory. I've seen the impellor inside a water pump shear off. Usually there's a tell tale leak of coolant from the housing port on the side of the shaft/bearing housing part of the water pump before it gets this bad. The cooling systems in these trucks can turn nasty if they've never been maintained, resulting in corrosion where you'd least expect it - like the bypass pipe around the back of the block and even holes through the base of an inlet manifold (more common on the 4G63's and I had both of these situations on the engine I've been working on). If the pump looks shady replace it.

    While you're doing that, pull the radiator out. Go to the local supermarket and buy some citric acid powder from the baking aisle. Add the whole container to a bucket of hot water and mix it through, lay the radiator down flat with the cap on and pour the hot solution into the radiator until it is full (no air if you can help it - and in direct sunlight as it will aid the process). Leave it for about 2 hours and dump the solution back into the bucket (you may want to re-use it if you are getting a lot of crap out of the radiator first try) and flush it out from either end thoroughly. Use a pressure cleaner if you have one. The citric acid is evil on corrosion and will munch on any contaminants trapped inside the cores and tanks. If there are any pin holes that were blocked up by debris you will find out very quickly... and p.s. this method is too aggressive for alloy radiators so don't even try it lol

  9. #9

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    what color is the smoke? White=water , Blue=oil. if its white than you most likely have a blown head gasket. it might have been going out and finally gave up. combustion gases can get trapped in the water passages and prevent the water from circulating. make sure the valve on the thermostat is at 12 oclock and the coil side is pointing toward the firewall. definitely service the entire cooling system if you have no idea the last time it was done. also you also need to get the air out of the cooling system so you need to leave the cap off and let the thermostat cycle a couple of times.

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