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Thread: Alternator Upgrade : Nippondenso 90/120/140/etc Amp

  1. #26

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    OK I took out the old alternator and started to try to install the new one. I have the feeling I have to eat this alternator and buy another, but not yet. First pic is of the regulator and pigtail for a 73 Plymouth Duster.

    The shaft on the 45 amp is smaller, 5/8. The new one is 11/16, so the short bushing off the 45 amp won't work to let the pulley ride on the new one. So I need a new v belt pulley bushing or pulley if the newer ones aren't two piece and have a similar set up to the serpentine pulley.

    Next the pivot bolt is 1/4 inch as is the hole through the motor. The holes for the pivot are two sizes, 3/8 and the one with the bushing in the picture is 1/2. How have folks been coping with that?
    The top bolt hole is 3/8. You'll need an 1.5" 3/8 bolt with washer and nut for the adjuster. The single bolt on my 45amp won't work.
    Except for these annoying but critical differences the sizes look and measure the same. That's 7 inches between pivot and adjuster bolt.
    Can't think of anything else right now.
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  2. #27

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    How are these retrofits holding up for you all?

  3. #28

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    So I was looking for unthreaded slotted spacers. I called and went to several places. No one could help. At the last place the guy, cutting on a huge vertical band saw outside, looks over the alternator and listens to me. Then he says wait a minute. He was gone so long I thought he was pulling my leg. Then he comes out and he has that piece of copper. He told me to take it. It took me a bit to work it out but by the time I got home it sunk in. The OD of the tube was just over 10mm the size of the existing holes. The through bolt is 8mm. Sure enough I cut the tube and it worked. I had to cut it two thicknesses of the cutting wheel on my grinder. Then I cut off the extra spacer that came with it.
    I installed it and hooked up the wires and now all I need is to find a V pulley for it. Then I can find out if it works
    I will eventually move the mounting for the regulator.


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  4. #29

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    A low tech solution on a zero dollar budget that works - uber win Fingers crossed it lines up and does it's thing without headaches.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    A low tech solution on a zero dollar budget that works - uber win Fingers crossed it lines up and does it's thing without headaches.
    Best kind of solutions are free. This place never answered me so I pulled the trigger and they charge just $2 less than the price of the item to ship it! I read the return policy and now I know why the never responded, they deduct the shipping fee from your payment on returns. So I mentioned this in my note https://store.alternatorparts.com/24...ternators.aspx It looks right but that shoulder height might be off. Maybe I can use a washer?

    Note- The spacers did not make it stiff but it did tighten up with no play once I wrenched bolt on. It wouldn't have done that without those home made spacers. I think that was a 1/2" tube of potable water pipe, as it was bent and soft. That stuff has thicker walls than off the shelf hard copper pipe.

  6. #31

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    Still waiting for the pulley. I tore open the wiring harness and pulled the blue wire out of it and retaped the rest. It seems way too small to handle 90 amps. Anyway the heavy white wire runs to the + battery and the blue wire goes into the firewall on the driver side. It is spliced to power the reverse lights. Now if there is a problem I only have to chase it inside the cab and put in a heavier wire.
    I saw something on the pulley site. They sell kits for dodge external regulators. Theirs has a clip set up on the pigtail they supply as apparently there is an issue with the plug falling out. So I made one with tie wire.
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  7. #32

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    The alternator parts place was a bust. They never acknowledged my order until 6 days later, yesterday a Sunday when they are closed and it was back dated to last Tuesday. Today they finally responded to my email from Friday asking what was going on to tell me the supplier no longer has that part but they will provide me an excellent equivalent. I cancelled the order. That they did right away. They never did respond to my other email. They have 3 email addresses, they never responded to the info@ email I sent a question to. One an AOL account that comes with the PayPal receipt and two for the website. They may have more.

    Edit 9-27-20 bored watching the game (Man did Pollard screw up!) and waiting for parts and looked at RA under belt drive and they have a bunch of idler pulleys. I had thought that was just belts. I assume they are for an AC unit but they have the correct diameter center hole. Wasted two weeks. Oh well I have a double pulley due in this week. Now I know and whoever happens across this in a search does too.
    Last edited by 85Ram50; 09-27-2020 at 02:04 PM.

  8. #33

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    Git her dun!

    OK the pulley I ordered did not work. I started looking again resentful as hell about the first guy and a wasted days waiting then I just went out there took the pulley from the new alt and cut it up leaving behind the piece that slips over the shaft which was long enough to give me clearance to put the original 45 amp two piece pulley on it with the new nut that came with the alt. I had to pull the alt tighter after the first try as revving it gave belt squeals. I tested the bat before starting 11.99. Then when I had it running and tight 14.90 to 15.03 on the DCV scale of the multi meter. All the dash stuff looked good, radio came right on.
    I have to go dump the load in the back then fix the radiator leak. It has been dripping since I tried to squeeze the spot where it leaked to stop it.

  9. #34

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    Loads of not fun excitement.
    I could smell gas on the way to the dump. When I was parked unloading teh guy next to me pointed out I was dripping gas. I looked did not see where but knew I could do nothing so I finished and tried to get home as fast as possible. Of course there was road construction. I found it weird it was dripping so fast when it was turned off. I thought the alt had done something to the system and made the pump stay on or something.
    I got home and took off the air cleaner, it was dripping just as fast and I finally saw it. The silicon cap I had placed over the return line had melted. I had just recently learned that silicon does not hold up to gas. I found a black probably rubber cap and sealed it. I need to get a fuel resistant cap.

  10. #35

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    Wrapping this into one post.
    This method is not what it claims to be. The wiring is correct, the advice not so much. Be careful that what alternator you choose will fit.
    On my first gen D50 the pivot bolt is 8mm. If you go with an alternator for a Dakota which I did purchased new, that hole is much bigger. I used a home made solution in a previous post of a 1/2" copper pipe cut to act as a slotted spacer. Had to cut down the width of the slotted spacer it comes with. It feels loose but tightens up nicely when you bolt it down.
    The other problem is the pulley on the OE alternator cannot mount directly to the new one for a Dakota. Check the bore sizes and clearances before you decide what you are going to do. Some pulleys have shoulders and the Pure Energy alt I got has an indent that will make the body rub on most pulleys. I ended up cutting the pulley off the new one down to just the part that fit on the shaft. It acted as a 3/8"thick washer and I was able to use the two halves of the OE pulley with the new nut. I also had to get a larger longer bolt and nut for the adjustment arm.
    On the wiring I had to take the tape off the harness along the wheel well so that the large white charging wire could move about and bolt up. I had to bolt it up before mounting the alternator.
    There is a link above from Salteen post #21 to an alt on ebay. It is a 65 amp (it doesn't say on the ad) and if i had to do it over I would go with it as there would be nothing to change out but the alternator. There is another one on Ebay that looks rebuilt & painted at home. It also looks like a direct bolt up no wiring.

  11. #36

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    This is right, but it is also wrong. The blue wire is dead. My Truck is a 1990 with a blue wire and a white wires for the field and the large white wire going to the battery (the charging wire), when I tried this on my blue wire nothing happened, but the other field wire, the white one is hot all the time, (key on,key off, 12 volts) I did this only wrapping the blue wire with tape (deleting it) and using the white wire and it works great. Now my truck is a 1990 dodge ram50 with 2.4 fuel injection. The alternator and voltage regulator came off a '80 dodge slant six D-150. A new alternator was gonna cost me $120. Thanks for the tip!!

  12. #37

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    I did have to grind the corner off the bottom alternator bolt hole in the block, the factory alternator has a big space where regular dodge alternators just have 1/2 inch clearance, I cut a hole in my oil filter and had to replace it but I radiused the casting and any dodge alternator will work fine, had to add a few washers to take up the space but the belt lines up perfect and I used the old belt, didn't switch any pullys, used the one on the alternator off the '80 dodge truck.

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