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Thread: Alternator Upgrade : Nippondenso 90/120/140/etc Amp

  1. #1

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    Alternator Upgrade : Nippondenso 90/120/140/etc Amp

    So your factory 35 Amp Mitsubishi Alternator sucks and can barely keep up with your headlights, heater and windshield wipers running at the same time? The Internal Voltage Regulator crapped out and now the truck isn't charging? You could buy a replacement alternator, exactly like your old one, but why?


    Enter the Nippondenso Alternator, found on Dodge Caravans with the V6 engine and Dodge Trucks (1988 - 2001) with the 3.9, 318 and 360 TBI engines, Magnum V6 (3.9L) or Magnum V8 (5.2L / 5.9L). The lowest output Nippondenso puts out a whopping 90 Amps, many are 120 Amps, some are even higher (approaching 200 amps in some rare cases). The best part, all of them are the same external size and almost identical in size to the Mitsubishi Alternator found on D50 Trucks.


    So, how do you go about fitting one of these monsters to a D50?


    Step 1 : Find a Nippondenso Alternator (Find a Used One or Buy a New One)

    Step 2 : Buy a Chrysler External Voltage Regulator and Pigtail (any chrysler product 1971-1987) For simplicity and guaranteed results on getting the right stuff, buy one for a 1973 Plymouth Duster. This regulator and pigtail are always in stock at every parts store. You'll have about $20 invested in the Regulator and Pigtail.

    Step 3 : Swap the Pulley from your Mitsubishi Alternator to the Nippondenso Alternator (because most Nippondenso Alternators have a Serpentine Pulley, some Early 88-91 models have Dual V-Belt Pulleys though)

    Step 4 : Loosen your Upper Alternator Bracket/Adjuster Bracket and rotate it up a little bit (about a 1/4" or so). The Nippondenso alternator upper mount ear is slightly taller than the mitsubishi alternator.

    Step 5 : Wire up the Regulator Pigtail, connect the wiring to the alternator and add the Ground Strap from the Alternator to the Battery. The entire regulator harness only requires you to connect to 1 Wire from your original D50 Alternator Plug. The Blue Wire connects to the Blue Wire on the Regulator Pigtail (see attached photos).

    Step 6 : Mount the Voltage Regulator. The best place is the Passenger Side Inner Fenderwell, about 6" in front of the firewall. There are already bolt holes (threaded) in the fender well in this location. It puts the regulator close to the alternator wiring, as well as the main wiring harness, should you choose an alternate Ign+ Feed

    Step 7 : Reinstall your Belt.










    It doesn't matter which of the 2 small field posts on the alternator you connect the Green and Blue Wires to, the circuit works exactly the same on either posts, but you must have the green on one post and the blue on the other. The Blue wire is the Ign + (on both the D50 and on older Chryslers) which supplies a field to the alternator and + to the regulator, the Green is a pulsed output from the regulator.



    Congratulations, you now have a monster alternator that bolts in place of the factory alternator, is readily available at any parts store or junkyard. You also now have an easily serviceable/replaceable and readily available external voltage regulator that can be swapped in under 2 minutes.

    The Initial Installation takes about 25 minutes on average, requires no permanent modifications to the truck, and makes it easy to service the charging system with readily available parts.

  2. #2



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    I used to have a 1991 dogkota that the alternator signal from the computer quit working. My friend who owned an alternator shop tried to do this exact conversion on the dogkota, but it would not work right, so he used an external Ford regulator instead. I never had charging problems after that - the rest of the truck is another story.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  3. #3

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    Funny, Pennyman. My Dakota (now a Turbo Diesel...the old 5.2L Magnum V8 donated its alternator to my D50) had a problem with the computer too, and for some reason I had a problem getting the External Regulator Conversion to work on it too.

    I fought with it for ages, until (just for laughs) I "borrowed" the regulator from my Plymouth Duster and the truck started charging... The brand new regulator I had bought was bad out of the box.


    Technically speaking, the Nippondenso alternator functions exactly the same as the old (60's - 80's) Mopar 60 Amp, 78 Amp, 110 Amp and 200 Amp (Ambulance/HD) Alternators. The only difference (other than appearance) is that Mopar moved the Regulator into the Computer on the 88+ Dodges.... Bad Move, the Regulator in the Computer has been the Bane of Mopar Existence ever since.

    You're right though, it doesn't "have" to be a Dodge External Regulator (though it is the easiest to find and is in stock everywhere). Pretty much any regulator that was in use in a Dual Field Application will do the trick.

  4. #4



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    It has something to do with the computer and the wiring, even though it was no longer connected to the alternator. I even gave him 2 or 3 working voltage regs like the one you used - no luck. In our trucks that should not be an issue - just threw it out there in case someone had a problem with the install.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  5. #5

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    would this modification work on a 1990 2.4l d50?

  6. #6



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    Absolutely - his directions are spot on!
    Pennyman1
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  7. #7

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    well i had a alternator off of a 2000 dodge 2500 5.9 magnum,and not sure if it was a bad alternator or fucked up the wiring, does anyone have a really clear wiring diagram? as im not wiring inclined. and is there a certain alternator out of a specific make/model/year that works better since i have a 2nd gen?

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