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Thread: 1973 Plymouth Duster : 6-71 Blown 340

  1. #1

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    1973 Plymouth Duster : 6-71 Blown 340

    My latest "street terror"



    A 1973 "H" Code 340 Plymouth Duster. I took a 60,000 Original Mile Car that has been in my family since 1976 and modified it without a care in the world. (My dad, the previous owner, actually insisted that I do it) Engine is a Mopar Performance R3 Engine Block, topped with a Dyer's Large Bore 6-71 Blower.

    4.14" Bore, 3.31" Stroke, 8.1:1 Compression, .590 Lift Cam, 1.6 Ratio Rockers, 4-Bolt Mains, 72cc "T/A J" Heads with Offset Pushrod Holes and 2.10" / 1.90" Valves, Milodon Gear Drive Timing.


    The little street driven monster runs a Backbraced 8.75" Chrysler Rear, with 4.10 Gears and a Spool. Helping it bite the road, are a pair of 29x15.5-15" Wrinkle Wall Mickey Thompson Tires (in the first picture it had 29x14.5-14" Kelly's)... Traction is still horrible. I need to inboard the back, widen the tubs and squeeze some wider tires under the back of her, in hopes of getting it to bite better


  2. #2


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    Have you considered 4 linking it.

  3. #3

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    I have thought of that, for my 74.

    The 73 lacks traction when I want it, and has traction when I don't want it (usually on really hot days, after the tires have had a chance to warm up)...

    Let's just say the car stalled, when I got it fired back up, slammed it into 1st gear and smashed the throttle down.... Front end came up...

    Normally it sits there and burns the tires. It gets better traction with bias ply wrinkle walls than it does with radials, the bias ply tires are downright scary in the rain though, especially with the spooled rear

  4. #4


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    833 or 727. If your pulling wheels off ground sub-frame connectors. I would start cheaper on 73 since traction is off/on with (Adjustable Pinion Snubber) Old School traction bars. Whats the set up on the 71 w/540 that thing has to be around 1000 hp

  5. #5

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    The 71 is a stalled project, I ran out of money...and Hemi Builds cost lots of it.

    The 73 has a Full Manual 727 and it hits HARD, to the point where I installed a Driveshaft Hoop because I was afraid it would snap the driveshaft in half while shifting gears. There is no pause, when I slap the shifter my teeth rattle when it grabs the next gear instantly. I have an 18 Spline 833 that I'm swapping in, just to tame it down a little during shifts.

    She has Subframe Connectors and Torque Boxes, the only thing she doesn't have is a Rollcage.

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