My Weber 32/36 Swap
so I completed my Weber 32/36 swap this weekend. It took a little longer than expected, I thought I can hammer it out in a day, it took about 22 hours in total instead. I ran into a few roadblocks because the the weather I had came with the truck when I bought it, the adapter plates were for a Toyota, and there was some degree of fabrication needed for the throttle cable attachment and tranny kickdown attachment. this will be about an 80% detailed rundown of everything I personally needed to do for the swap. I write this in hopes that someone else on a budget can use the ideas. everything I did was with basic shop tools and a little patience.
this is what I started with, the stock manifold. I cleaned the sealing surfaces and removed the piece of tubing with a screw in it the previous guy used to block the coolant port to the stock carb.I filled the coolant port with JB Weld epoxy stick stuff, filled it a little over the gasket surface then used a file to take it down to the surface level.
this is the top plate to the adapter, unfortunately I didn't snap a pic of the bottom plate thought I did but whatever.it had several hole patterns for different manifoldsthe guy I bought the truck from said they were probably Toyota. so I roughed up the inside of the hole surfaces with a file and filled them up with JB Weld stick stuff, file them down to match surface level in light sanded all the surfaces so they would at least be all the same level. bolted up the adapters to the manifold using gaskets made from roll gasket material found at auto parts stores, gave them a light finger coat of blue Mr Gasket (I put that shit on everything).
here's the carb all mounted and ready for linkage. no where on the carb to mount it, it rotates the wrong direction and it's got the wrong cam for the throttle cable, awesome. I have limited tools and no materials available at my disposal. well hoping this carb works, I cannibalized the housing that holds all the vacuum emissions garbage and picked the corner that would grab a bolt from the carburetor mount and a hole from the tranny kick down mount. I cut it up with a hacksaw to a general shape ground everything on bench grinder measured, eyeballed and drilled a couple holes. I then mounted it and used the throttle cable holder from the stock carb to line up a good position on the bracket to hold the cable.
it's rough but it holds and its sturdy. The weber I have rotates counterclockwise where as the stock rotates clockwise, why wouldn't it? I flipped the throttle cable mount on the firewall, so that it points to the driver's side. I took the throttle came off a stock carb, flipped it so it would pull the right way on the Weber but it was a little too deep and it bound on the upper butterfly linkage. so I beat it flat with a hammer on a vice, ground off excess unnecessary bulk and cut off cautch for idle speed on the stock carb. I used a fat stack of washers to space the throttle cam as far away from the linkage and have the bolt still grab. OK it works, sweet.
Now for the fun part, My Craigslist bounty was rich with pain in the ass treasures, such as the automatic transmission. and its kick down malarky.
I took the tube with the mounting slide bolt holes and placed it underneath the intake pretty much right above the starter there is a pass-through slot in the intake perfect for the cable to feed through without fighting on the aluminum.it just so happens to line up pretty well with the right hand bolt where th. Mechanical fuel pump mounted. I just so happened to have a framing tie in the back of the truck score.I cut it, bent it and eyeballed that so that I could drop down low enough to grab the relocated stock kickdown bracket, which I cut the unnecessary side off of.
again it's not pretty but it works.
alright what's left? Make a block off plate for the stock fuel pump output line electric fuel pump in line somewhere near the tank and run power to it.
well again no materials available so I cut a small piece of the frame near the tailgate that probably won't compromise structural integrity and isn't noticeable unless you're looking for it underneath the car.using the plastic spacer on the stock fuel pump I stenciled shape on the piece of metal used a hack saw and a grinder to shape it poked a couple holes in it Mr Gasketed the hell out of it and bolted it up. Please note if you're going to use the stock fuel pump bolts you must cut about 3/8 to half inch off or or use washers, nuts or spacers otherwise, you will blow through the back of the head when you tighten it.
I used a common inline fuel pump 2.523 psi, 42 GPH I mounted it to the frame about two feet in front of the gas tank, I unplugged the stock fuel filter plugged its output line to the output line of the gas tank, cut the metal fuel line, bent it out a little bit to put rubber fuel line going to my fuel filter in a more accessible location,fuel rubber line over the crossmember under the door to the fuel pump just in front of ii, ran a small piece of line back to the metal fuel line. I blocked off the vapor return in the engine compartment and all the vac canister purge garbage.
please forgive all the misspellings and unattentive grammar, voice to text was used for the majority of it.
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