I did use a little oil and I used oil/gas resistant gasket paste.
I did use a little oil and I used oil/gas resistant gasket paste.
I bought a tube of lithium based grease for about $7 CDN and spread a thin layer over all the gaskets with my fingers. I torqued the fasteners to the specified torque with a 1/4" drive torque wrench and never had an issue. When you installed the studs into the top plate did you just turn them by hand until you felt them bottom out, and then back them off just a bit before putting the carb on?
OH DANG.Originally Posted by geezer101
Thanks Geezer. I just ignored this when I put my Weber on, couldn't figure out what to do about it. Thank you.
I used this stuff on my Weber, and it seems to have done the trick and then some. Had a loose mounting stud (not enough loctite) and the gasket was fine, just needed another layer of it.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/p...sealant-detail
..hmm...I did not do this...Tapped and installed set/grub screw in coolant port!
I decided to try to fix that pesky leak located between the mounting adapters , so I disassembled and checked tightness and added a tad more sealant in spots. Put everything back together and it wouldn't stay running.
Took it all back apart and it seems I've geeked up the paper gaskets, thus causing an even worse leak.
I just ordered a replacement gasket set and am going to give it a try again when it's warmer.
I keep hearing some guys just used a little bit of grease or sealant and some used absolutely nothing other than the paper gaskets.
What is the best way to seat the mounting studs ?!?
When you install gaskets, make sure they are cut correctly and fit. Gasket kits are a bit 'hit and miss' with mounting holes and port alignment. If the mounting holes in the gaskets are a little on the close side they will bunch the gasket up when you seat the adapter and carb. You can attempt to re-punch the mounting holes or you can buy a sheet of gasket paper, some hole punches and have a go at making the gaskets yourself. Mounting gaskets are easy enough to cut.
The mounting studs should not be over tightened. This is very important. Hand tight is sufficient with some thread locker. If you over tighten them with a wrench you will be trying to separate the mounting plate from the adapter plate. The nuts that hold the carb down should be torqued to 12 ft. lbs.
I used this on both sides of the gaskets with hand tightening. Haven't had a problem.
We have a complete Weber manual in our shop manual section of the forum. These manuals are free and well worth having a copy of if you have questions for a weber or even your trucks. Be sure to get the correct year manual.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Manual-inside
I grabbed some of that permatex high tack and now im waiting on the new gaskets to come in. Im going to let each layer set up a bit before adding the other layers. This includes the mounting studs with the loctite.
I swear I did everything by the book when I installed it and couldnt figure out why I had that leak.
Hopefu;lly the warmer weather combined with letting each section set a little will help.
Thanks for all the responses and suggestions!!
Finally reinstalled the weber.
I put each layer on with the permatex high tack and let each layer sit for at least 24 hours before installing the next.
I tightened everything up and she fired right up! No leaks no weird idles ...perfect!
And when I turned the truck off, no dieseling!!!!!!
So now I can start driving it around and install some if these parts I have sitting here
Pics of the install ....Glad to hear it's up and running .Did you change any of the idle/air mixture settings on the Weber?
No changes whatsoever ....only difference this go round was the new gaskets , the permatex and letting everything set up.
i was glad to read i wasn't the only one that used loctite on the mounting studs.
i was kind of worried over that one after having to redo everything yesterday because i developed a whistle and found out that the whole carb was lose .
then like yourself unc25 i made the bold move and put some loctit on the studs .
I have one of the non-Redline carb kits; are they okay? Think it's a Weber-direct?
Got a pic or a link to where you bought it from? I can't see there being a problem with using a rebuild kit from any particular manufacturer but I've found in some kits the gasket fitment can be a bit 'iffy'. I've used kits from Fuel Miser and Goss for rebuilding Mikunis and the only beef I had with them were the gaskets were hit and miss with gallery holes and over hang into the venturis (I cut them down to fit and have either re-punched holes or carefully trimmed them). As long as you get all the seals and associated 'O' rings it'll do the job.
It's the WK614 carb package.
I guess the big question is if it will work with the standard 5-speed manual trans instead of the automatic, which it says the kit can be used on? Confused.
I've had more bad luck with repairing this problem than I bet any other D-50 owner! Two rebuilt carbs didn't fix it. Complete tuneup with timing chain maintenance, ... and and on. It's been trouble-free for 40,000 miles and then the carb went to hell.
Wish it had the Canada version of this engine without all the jet valve, emission carb crap.
Got an email from Weber Direct ... YES! This kit will fit the manifold! At last, something about this nightmare repair is going in the correct direction. Got it back from 1 month at the mechanic with the choke completely disabled. Says it just won't work. ARGH!!! So now I either have to buy ANOTHER rebuild or do the involved conversion to the Weber and just eat the $450 for the last rebuild and work. Soooooo disappointed in this truck currently. After decades of good service it's turned into a bottomless money pit and still isn't working well.
Bet it can't be removed now ... without a sledgehammer and chisel.
Just to let you know that the Canadian trucks did have slightly different carbs ( not all that different from your federal emission carbs) and we did have jet valve heads. Wishing for the Canadian version really wouldn't help. I think the Mikuni carbs were made to try and satisfy emission requirements for the North American market by the Japanese, who didn't really have any long time experience with North American emission requirements. They worked fine for a few years but once they started to have problems they were a nightmare to fix because they are so complicated.
The K614 Weber kit will work on either Auto or manual trans. The K610 won't work with the automatic trans without some kind of mod to incorporate the kickdown cable which controls the shifting.
Thank you! Very helpful.
I'm up the air now about trying one more rebuild (the current one offered by Summit Racing) or just biting the bullet and doing the one-way modifications to install the Weber WK614 on hand for Mitzi.
I'm at the point of one more "impossible problem half way through work" and I'll serious consider unloading the whole package, spare engine and all. and by a very reliable Ford F150 ... that would be "problem resolved for good."
The Weber wins over the Mikuni. They flow better, they have better economy and response as a result and are far more forgiving to work on. You could get another serviceable Mikuni that is a lot newer, rebuild it and swap it for your dead one. If you can rebuild it yourself it'll save you some coin but these @!#$ing things are not for the faint of heart to pull down if you're neither patient or experienced with carbs.
Thank you. I have an older Weber WK614, bought new probably 10 years ago. Been in a heated garage in the box. I have a spare intake manifold I can build up for it, then swap it in. Hope the gaskets in it don't leak after being dry this long.
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