I took the electric choke off and removed the top of the carb to bolt mine on. They are not really accessible with a torque wrench.
I took the electric choke off and removed the top of the carb to bolt mine on. They are not really accessible with a torque wrench.
So I would like to add a fuel pressure gauge to this setup as well and was wondering if I could simply unscrew the brass plug on the Weber and install the gauge and get a proper reading?
similar to this setup......
Or would I be better off installing a gauge in line?
The gauge on the Weber is a good idea. It's safer than an inline (no chance of a hose or clamp coming loose), it's solid mounted, it eliminates the need for all the extra hardware to set it up and is a quick install - ticks all the boxes for me!
I don't think there pipe fittings in the carb. If it has a gasket then it's not. Pipe can leek or crack the housing. You would need a hydrophilic fitting to make the adaption. I know Edelbrock is not pipe.
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You could always take the gauge and the fitting out of the carb into an O'Reilly's and see if they have the brass elbow with the right threads. What's the range on the gauge?
If the carb doesn't have a threaded outlet then more than likely they've tapped a thread into it themselves. Easy enough to do. There aren't any flow arrows on the fuel inlet snout so I guess it was designed for a fuel inlet hose on either side.
Its my understanding that the fuel inlet can be swapped either side on the newer carbs, so Im assuming I could do the same.
The other inlet should be threaded, but Ill let you guys know when I look into it more this weekend.
Found out that I didn't have the carb bolted as tight as it should've been and got rid of the howling.
But the air filter has something to do with a very high pitch whine it seems to go away when the air filter is removed or if I put pressure on the top plate.
Maybe the air filter isn't seating properly. How tight is the top cover clamping down? If you have a bit of clearance you could try some self adhesive weather stripping on the base and top cover to make it more airtight (the urethane stuff, not the porous grey spongy foam as it will perish and get sucked into the nether regions of your engine)
Get the taller air cleaner - the shorty air cleaner makes the air try to make too many bends to get to the top of the carb. It's the 2.75" tall one you want. The lid is so close to the top of the carb it will howl like a door not fully closed in a windstorm. The taller air cleaner will also make it easier to tune.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I think I have the "tall" air cleaner, it is definitely taller than the one that is pictured a couple posts above me (with the pressure gauge)
I messed around a little more this weekend and I think its gonna me something that Ill just have to deal with.
What did your manifold spacer look like? The one I salvaged with the 34DATA from the wrecker has a bigger area than the throttle ports on the carb, and I've been wondering if this 'step' between the carb and the manifold would cause turbulence going into the inlet manifold (air passing over that recess might be enough to create drag - and noise along the way). I'm going to take a shot at fabbing my own spacer in an attempt to eliminate anything that might interfere with air velocity into the manifold plenum...
Anyway the cause of your noise issue will make itself apparent. The novelty of having a Weber screaming at you will wear off pretty quickly and it will be something simple I bet.
I'm having issues putting on my weber... Instructions said throttle linkage to the front but a lot of people have throttle linkage in the back... And the bracket it says to use from old carb does not look right no matter where i put it...
Got a pic of your installation? There are so many variants on this set up that they never appear to be a straight forward deal.Originally Posted by TruckRamRod
Geezer and pennyman , help truck ram rod out...he's been getting mis info from a guy on the Facebook page . I've given him some info, but I'm by no means as knowledgable as you guys are. It's my understanding he has a 2.0 with a dgev 32/36 and is having trouble with the throttle cable mount like me.
Pics of what you did so far will give us what we need to get you straightened out.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I am by no means the Weber guru (hell, I'm working on my first Weber mod and install and there is literally NO INFO on the !@#$ing carb anywhere!!?! (I'm having to gamble on buying a rebuild kit as I don't know if the inlet filter or fuel needle and seat will be the right diameter etc) A pic or 2 goes a long way on gaining insight into throttle cable positions and linkage set ups. My 34DATA requires a single path between the choke arm and the original throttle stop location as any other path will cause the cable to get fouled on something, and I had to alter the throttle stop location as the original adjuster bolt hit the manifold preventing WOT from taking place. It is easy to screw up installing a carb on a non-standard configuration (like having a Weber facing the wrong way will cause the float to shut off the fuel needle and seat sporadically but it'll bolt up and the throttle linkages will work...) so it takes a little creativity, lots of observation, and checking who has done what in the past to get it right.
Something like this ???
I like the return spring bracket - never seen that one before...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
The only problem is trying to fit the throttle cable through the hole in the linkage it just seems to be to big to fish through it. That return linkage above has to be fab. I've never seen that as well but looks like it would work .
it is tight - the cable has to be cut with a needle file, not cutters to get a clean cut that doesn't flatten the cable. Geronimo has that cable clamp, but I used a ring terminal, looped it around the post, then fed it back through and crimped it. Never had an issue with it since.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I'll do that thanks as always pennyman.
Having a look at the pics you've posted I'm thinking you should be able to use a stock Mikuni throttle linkage with a few washers to space it out on the throttle shaft (there should even be a spacer on the Mikuni that will do the job). You'll need to cut a few redundant parts off the linkage but it'll simplify the set up. It'll look weird with the back of the Mikuni linkage facing outwards but as long as it does it's funky thing, that's all that matters.
Started the car up and drove it to the parts store and around town for a bit. Ran decent, I still need to adjust somethings. But that whistle got annoying so I took the air filter off and it was still there....grabbed a can of carb cleaner and theres a F&%#ing leak at the same spot I thought I had tightened up enough!!!!
I am going to have to take everything back off and put new gasket stuff down and try it again. Is there anything you guys recommend for gaskets or gasket material?
This whistle has go to go !
Did you put a thin layer of grease on both sides of all the gaskets before you installed them? The instructions that came with my Weber said to use lithium based grease. If you're going to make new gaskets, Fel-Pro makes good sheet gasket material.
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