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Thread: Weber install questions 2.0 G63B

  1. #26

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    Tapped and installed set/grub screw in coolant port!



    I have another issue though...I think Im missing something(s) for the throttle cable to mount properly assuming I have mounted everything correctly. Take a look at the pics.






    "Boomerang" mounted on valve cover....I used the two bolts in the very center of the valve cover....dont know if this is correct, but it looked like the only logical place for it to go.


    The Weber instructions say to recover the original throttle cable hold down from the original carburetor and mount it to the boomerang. I grabbed what I thought was the right bracket but now im starting to question myself. I had to break the original carb to get this thing off and it doesnt look like its the right thing at all.



    I found the "keyed" 12 volt source for the choke so im only a couple steps away from seeing if its gonna run.

  2. #27




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    flip the boomerang over - it will line the cable up properly. There should also be a piece that goes into the throttle bracket to attach the cable to - it looks like a nut with a post on it that goes into holes on the bracket.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  3. #28

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    I just installed a 32/36 last night on my 89 2.6 ram 50. i had to do some minor fabrication work to the cable hold down. i had to bend it for correct WOT position. and i had to redrill the dog leg to relocated the cable hold down ( closer to the carb) and i also had to renotch the throttle cable holder at the base of it. i got it to work properly and have the correct angle. but there is a little bit of flex in the "dogleg" at 7/8+ throttle. I'm going to re machine a new sold unit just to correct that flex.

  4. #29

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    Or get this linkage kit. Only need the bracket though .I called pierce manifolds and he sent me one for free.
    Attached Images

  5. #30

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    Nice job with the coolant gallery block off Now I'll try to be diplomatic with this post - please clean your engine. I can barely make anything out in there. A paint brush and a can of non caustic oven cleaner will make short work of that mess (it's way less work than 5 cans of degreaser and creates less mess to clean up afterwards) You got a spanking new carb and it deserves to be the jewel on a shiny crown.

  6. #31

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    Geezer, don't worry..I plan on cleaning up a lot on this engine. It had a minimal maintenance and care life before I got her.

    I need to get the throttle cable sorted and get her running. I can't believe it's taken this long to finish this.

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by unc25 View Post
    Geezer, don't worry..I plan on cleaning up a lot on this engine. It had a minimal maintenance and care life before I got her.

    I need to get the throttle cable sorted and get her running. I can't believe it's taken this long to finish this.
    lol, I feel your pain. My L200 feels like the Sistine Chapel - just keep pluggin' away at it til it's done...and then you'll find all these 'little' things you need to do or want to add to it (insert much butt-hurt here with added wallet pains )

  8. #33



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    Not sure if this can help you, You might be able to get a reference from it, or create something better.
    install1.jpgcarb cable.jpg

    Shows carb cabling when I did my G63B. Ignore the red rectangles, those are cover plates that were made for hole blocks.
    Last edited by BradMph; 12-02-2015 at 12:00 AM.

  9. #34

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    Thanks brad...I've been looking at a ton of pictures trying to figure this out. I emailed pierce manifolds (who I bought carb from) and they asked me to call them. Due to time differences I had to wait so I'll be calling them in a bit.

  10. #35

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    I spoke with the rep at Pierce manifolds and it didnt really go as I planned. Its difficult for me to explain over the phone and its equally as difficult for him to understand what Im talking about, so its wasnt really productive. The tech offered to reach out to Redline on my behalf and provided me with his email. I told him I would send him some pictures of my predicament and explain my confusions.

    I took Pennyman's advice and flipped the boomerang over. I then mounted the original throttle cable holder on the boomerang and loosely draped the cable towards the carb.



    I think I can rig the original throttle cable holder from the mikuni carb to work with the new position/setup.

    I looked at another thread by Ramshorn and he linked a picture of the weber instaled on a 2.0....... (see link) http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...4&d=1349829286

    It looks like this person modified the original cable hold down just as I was planning on doing.

    I find it odd that you purchase a carb kit that is supposed to fit and work with the 2.6 and the 2.0 yet it doesnt seem to work for both motors as easily as one would think.

  11. #36

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    When I plugged the thermo valve holes in my manifold I used a 3/8" npt tap to open the holes up enough to get 3/8" npt brass plugs to thread in. The tap starts by hand for a few threads so the pitch is very close if not the same.

  12. #37

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    I would try to make a cable bracket that borrows 2 of the manifold mounting studs as an anchor point for the throttle cable. I'm having a similar problem with my weird 34 DATA carb - the bracket I've made holds it in the right place but flexes (and so far only has a single bolt holding it together), resulting in it being pulled out of alignment and eventually fouling the secondary linkage. It's only now I get how much easier it is to rig up a throttle cable for a Weber conversion on a RHD vehicle as the cable doesn't have to take a serpentine path over the rocker cover.

  13. #38

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    Don't know if this helps.I didn't end up using that bracket.
    Attached Images

  14. #39

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    maxdsm, yeah that does help. Im gonna go ahead and mount the filter on there and get the cable mounted to the throttle plate and see if everything clears.

  15. #40

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    I ordered the dFev to avoid the throttle cable issue. Tons of great info of this thread.

  16. #41

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    Got it all buttoned up and it started on the first try!!!!!

    Now there's this weird high pitch squelch/squeak that remains constant at idle and fluctuates by throttle. It sounds like a massive air leak....don't know if this is normal.

    There's a couple things that I'll add later with pics in reference to the wiring .

  17. #42

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    I've seen a couple threads with people asking about which wires to use for the electric choke and or the fuel pump power. On the truck side plug that used to go to the mikuni carb there is a row of wires that go: Green wire then Red wire, then black with red stripe and then black with white/yellow stripe. These two are powered only when the ignition key is in the second position or "on".



    Ignore what I said about using the fuse tap on the horn fuse. This is a "switched" power source, but it is "hot" when the key is in the first position or "ACC". This means that if you just want to listen to the radio the fuel pump is going to be on.



    And here is the video of the whine...its pretty noticeable even with the hood closed.


  18. #43

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    To clarify: The two black wires are the ones that you want to use for switched power

  19. #44

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    Oh crap dude, that sounds like a Rolls Royce jet engine! You connected the crank case breather back to the manifold? I noticed that on the pic you posted of your throttle cable linkage set up (you've probably connected it by now anyway). Would be more than enough to get it whistling like that. You'll have to go through a process of elimination to find the vac leak. An open element air filter hisses like a cornered wild cat normally but that racket would put my nerves on edge.

  20. #45

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    Geezer....yeah Ive plugged and hooked everything up that I can. I am familiar with the open element air filter noise and thought this was a tad to much. Ill have to start checking hoses and bolts....its always something LOL.

    But it was nice to start the truck without having to feather throttle or crank it over and over to get her running. This thing literally fired up on the first try! And that carter pump is a tad noisy...but its nice to hear it as a reminder that its on too.

  21. #46

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    Even with the noises it is worth it, especially getting it to fire first shot I've got a Carter that has been reincarnated twice so far and it rumbles a bit but I'm not 100% sure if I'll use it on the L200. I might try something quieter this time around. I found the 'rubber' mounts were really inadequate for dampening the noise from it (a couple of small rubber grommets? and they didn't last long either...) It needs something else to mount up to. Have an in cabin isolation switch for the pump too. If you're ever unlucky enough to have it broken into and the culprits manage to get it started, it won't run for long (I had a missile switch for the pump and a secondary kill switch for the ignition coil) plus if you ever have a fuel delivery issue you can kill it quickly.

  22. #47


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    I like it, does the whistle increase as you increase throttle. Now if you could get it to sound like this skip to 1:30 in video


  23. #48

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    ^ Nice....LOL

  24. #49



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    I had a carb squeal on my truck before and it happen to be a Weber knockoff that I never could get to work right, it drove me nuts. I sold it to some guy that said he was installing it on a Suzuki sidekick. I explained to him that it was not a true weber and he was fine with it. As far as I know and heard, the sound came from inside the carb as the air traveled over the internal parts and sort of created air flow like air over a coke bottle..

  25. #50

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    Mine is stamped Weber not a sticker and was purchased from Pierce manifolds so Im assuming its legit.

    Ill check it out this weekend and spray some carb cleaner to see where the leak is coming from...hell it could be that I didnt tighten everything up as I shouldve, those mounting bolts can be a beast to get to

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