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Thread: I shook hands with the devil...

  1. #26

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    1985 Mitsubishi L200
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    Time to block out the sun with pure awesomeness - Bridge between the ports has been cut out

    Still need to remove some more metal from the primary port end of the plenum but I'm not sure if I'll take it right out to the edge of the spacer, radius it off or make a new spacer out of an exotic plastic

    Here's my hatchet job mounting hole mod

    You can see the difference between the spacer and the ports on the 34 DATA carb

  2. #27


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    Just bevel or radius the remaining lip on manifold just to help decrease cavitation, no reason to full port the manifold to spacer size since the bores on carb are smaller as well.

  3. #28

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    I think I'm going to make my own spacer instead of using the one I salvaged with the carb. This way I can maintain as much of the air/fuel charge velocity as possible. I have a very sharp edge on the inside of the plenum as a result of removing the bridge between the ports and I'm not sure if I should leave it alone or radius it off. I think leaving it will promote turbulence and keep the fuel suspended in the charge but radiusing it improve velocity into the manifold runners - you guys got any thoughts on this?

  4. #29




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    air likes smooth surfaces - radius it - the sharp edge will cause too much resistance and screw with your tuning.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  5. #30

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    thanks pennyman! Looks like this manifold has got another date with the die grinder...

  6. #31




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    if you are worried about the fuel dropping out grind the edges like an intake leaving it a little rough.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  7. #32

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    And so I am still messing with this contraption. I have been advised to remove the coolant auto choke and replace it with an electric unit (apparently it is a straight up swap of housings) and I can get a new electric choke for the Weber. When I check the usual villains (ebay) I come up with cross compatibility of parts. "To suit Weber and Holley 2 BBL", then the electric choke lists the same between "Holley 2 BBL and 4 BBL" on other listings. Is this right? And what other carbs use compatible electric chokes? My 34 DATA carb needs a bare bones strip down and clean but I still haven't bought a rebuild kit to commit to getting it mounted. As it is I have replaced the main coolant barb to a single brass outlet for the heater connection (necessary to tidy up the water choke deletion) and I decided to also replace the brake booster vacuum barb with a brass one. The final addition to the inlet manifold is deleting the single outlet thermal vacuum switch and fitting a brass bung to block it off. Another issue cropped up too - where to hook up the vac advance to the distributor. Guides say the vacuum hose must be above the throttle butterflies where there is no internal vacuum present off throttle or you would be getting vacuum advance continuously but there isn't a provision on this carb for it (there are 2 capped vacuum connections but both pass to below the butterflies so I'm stumped ) Added bonus, I can't find a working distributor in the JY's - all of them have dead vacuum servos except one I found on a 2.4 which had no servo (ECI set up)
    Last edited by geezer101; 08-05-2018 at 04:46 AM.

  8. #33

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    A RHD Lancia Beta??

    Ohh I really want all the RHD conversion parts! That would knock over the people in my Fiat club!
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  9. #34

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    After a long hiatus, an update. I did something today with the weird 34 DATA carb. This particular problem has been the primary reason why I haven't jumped in and rebuilt the carb yet - the water choke assembly. I wasn't sure if I would be able to do anything with retrofitting an electric choke housing on it until this morning (and the reason why it just happened to be this morning is worthy of a slap in the ear in itself). I didn't want to invest in buying a new choke off ebay just to find out it wasn't compatible when I realised -
    ...I have a complete 32/36 carb I could scavenge the housing off just to test it out

    After pulling the chokes apart and playing mix and match with housing clamps and backing plates, I got it to work! Luckily the 34 DATA uses the same choke housing diameter as the 32/36. So next is the full strip down, DIY soda blast (the reason why I started the hunt this morning) and then a search for the correct rebuild kit for my 34 DATA 3/100 C8 (not CB as I originally thought due to the carb being a bit beat up and grubby) Only thing I ran into that I wasn't expecting was the choke housing backing plates. I had to use the backing plate off the water choke with the electric choke as the matching backing plate for it restricted the choke opening by at least 60%. At least it's something...
    Last edited by geezer101; 04-30-2018 at 06:16 PM.
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

  10. #35

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    P1010015.jpgP1010016.jpg

    So this is where I'm at on this thing. The top of the carb body showed signs of pitting and some distortion so I've refaced it using 400 grit paper wet on a sheet of glass. The emulsion tubes and main jets have been soaked in a citric acid bath and polished up. The throttle shafts aren't assembled completely at this point as I think I want to spend more time prepping it (the venturis have been smoothed out a little and the throats polished up) The original Mikuni throttle linkage works OEM. This carb was a mess - lots of gunk had gummed up the galleries and shafts, the auto choke was laggy but the fuel bowl was free of corrosion.

    The rebuild kit I bought for it is a good quality kit that has all the diaphragms and seals etc. I found this mysterious 'power valve' unit on the opposite side of the throttle linkages that I have no idea how it works, but it was clogged up pretty badly (there's a ball bearing check valve inside of it). No doubt that if the engine this Weber came off of was still running, it would've been running awful...
    support the forum that supports you - join and donate to MightyRam50.Net today! donations unlock the edit function

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