Weber Carbs Direct sells the fakes! They'll never run right. Go through Redline Weber.Originally Posted by FenstermakerWJ
Weber Carbs Direct sells the fakes! They'll never run right. Go through Redline Weber.
Thank you for that info, I'll go there instead, how do you order on that website though, have to call?
When I had the exhaust manifold and intake off a month ago ii took a long tube brush and a drill, and boy was that clogged... I agree the smog equipment is kinda "stupidly" designed, almost like they want you to take it off Lol.
If you're required to run the anti-pollution crap on the engine be aware of how it works and what it does. If the exhaust gas gallery is coked up then it will mess with your gas analysis. Make sure the gallery through the head from #4 exhaust port is clear, the gallery running from the port under #3 inlet runner around the inlet manifold to the EGR valve is also clear and the EGR piston has free movement. If it is badly coked up and blocked I have absolutely no idea how to clean out the EGR gallery on the manifold. This stuff is the worst designed pollution control system you could put on an engine next to the 'smog pump' which fudges the numbers by forcing clean air into the exhaust manifold and through the exhaust system(companies were doing it back then and VW is doing it now...)
So what I kinda got from this is that i should be fine if I shif my auto like a manual use 1st then 2nd then D then to pass D to 2nd?And to stop i need to but it back in 1? Would that work? What is good about the 38, more power less economy? How much less economy? Yeah I'm just filled with questions lol.
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It looks as if you replaced the radiator? What is the number for the radiator cap ? I need to order one .Thanks
Nice truck btw.
you will have to fabricate a kickdown linkage for the cable from the tranny for the passing gear to work and to not fry the tranny. There is a thread on here with a drawing to help with fabricating the linkage.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Thanks, yes the radiator has been replaced. the cap is a Stant 10329 Lev-R-Vent 13psi cap. I like having the pressure release ones.
Stant 10329 Lev-R-Vent 13psi cap. I like having the pressure release ones.
Alright thanks I'll take look, I think I came across that post once.
Got some new problem, truck stalls when thrown in gear, when it does run in gear and you give it gas it either stalls or dives like a snail. It doesn't seem like it wants to shift though, but dont know for sure as i cant get it up to speed for it to shift :/ I'd be more happy if it was the trans than that carb because ones easier to understand than the other lol. It idles fine and everything in park, doesn't have smoke of any color coming out of pipe.
Sounds like the fuel pump died - are you running a reg with the original pump to match the weber 3 psi needs - that will kill a pump in short order due to excessive back pressure.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Right now I am trying to get it smogged again so I have to use all original equipment so that includes running with the Mikuni carb, I did replace the mechanical pump when i had to swap the Weber for the Mikuni last month. Now that i think of it I had the same problem it seemed once i was running the Weber when i was running the other mechanical pump. should i just get a electric pump?
Yes - it will work with the weber best - if you have to run the Mikuni - get a 7 psi pump and use a regulator when you install the weber. Look at the threads for installing the electric pump - it gives you all the info to do it correctly. The pump will need to be mounted back by the tank, as most of the electric pumps are pusher type pumps.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Alright thanks, I'll let you know what happens. Hopefully that fixes it.
Ok so my fuel psi test shows it running at 5psi and jumping to 5.5psi when given gas, the Mikuni carb needs 7psi right,? looks like I'm going to an electric pump.
it does sound weak - time for an electric pump
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Good news! The truck passed smog!!! It pasted 3 weeks ago, and after a small adjustments it's running great!
Just a small problem, you know that little piece that bolts onto the valve cap that you can adjust the tension of the throttle cable with... Yeah, i need to get a new one, bolt stripped, guess I'll see what i can fabercate.
I also got a 38 weber, I have a idea how to mod the kickdown on it. Probably do the install in spring.
All is doing good for the most part. I have reason to believe the Mikuni is only working 1 barrel not 2... Just how my gas pedal feels not as stiff as it use to... And the 2nd barrel doesn't look like it opening fully... Not going to question it lol since it purs fine and beats the hondas lol. But if you have advice on what could be causing it, then I'll sure take a look.
Right now I'm patching the dash, paint it and will do the door panels next and rest of interior to match its paint.
Hope all is good with everyone, thanks for all your past advice and tips they helped a lot. I'll have a few more pictures to share later when they are on my pc.
Check the secondary vacuum actuator. Test it with the engine off by disconnecting the vac hose to the actuator and hooking up a longer hose to it then suck on the other end. If you're able to continuously pull air through the hose, the diaphragm is split. Easy to replace and doesn't need the carb to come off the engine. Just takes a little leverage once the retaining nut and small circlip on the throttle shaft are removed.
Don't go to webercarbsdirect - they sell the junk weber knockoffs! Only buy from from sellers with webers cast with made in Spain on them. Redline Weber carbs are the real deal
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I did the test, it seems like it is split, also possibly a dumb question but... Is there supposed to be liquid in there, because when i was testing it, i heard something like liquid in it.. not sure if thats normal, or because i was opening it and fuel was possibly flowing through the barrel. Also whats the part number for those or a link to get one? Thanks
Found out why I've had such high idle while in park and neutral... My throttle was sticking open when foot was off gas, the spring went bad... Well atleast thats good and simple. *knocks on wood* lol
No fluid in them, just a rubber diaphragm sealed between the outer casing halves and the actuator rod mount. The diaphragm makes a 'gurgling' noise sometimes. Yours look like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SECONDARY-DI...dVEEni&vxp=mtrI did the test, it seems like it is split, also possibly a dumb question but... Is there supposed to be liquid in there, because when i was testing it, i heard something like liquid in it.. not sure if thats normal, or because i was opening it and fuel was possibly flowing through the barrel. Also whats the part number for those or a link to get one? Thanks
Looks like it, I'll get one soon, when i get motivation to pull the air intake off again lol.
Hey, i have a opportunity to get a 91 mighty max for like dirt cheap engine and all, just rear end pretty much shot. I belive its the 2.4 v6. I saw a engine compatible chart somewhere on here for what could be used as a swap, but forget where and didn't remember seeing a 2.4 on it. Soo im curious lol... Would I be able to put that engien and trans into my truck lol... Ooorrr bolt my body to that frame lol, which i dont see anything yet in the ca rule book about a body swap lol
I mean 2.4 i4 lol... I think haha
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