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Thread: 87 Ram 50 "build"

  1. #1

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    87 Ram 50 "build"

    I started an intro thread but I figured this is more appropriate to document the progress........

    Picked up my 87 Dodge Ram 50 from a friend of mine in Sept. 2015. The truck was purchased new by his uncle and then at some point his father purchased it, so I '"know" where its been. Ive bugged them over and over for years to let me grab this from them. Unfortunate circumstances led them to get rid of it and I was the first person they contacted.

    The body is straight...It was filthy and had been sitting for over a year.
    It took me a couple tries to get the truck started. a new battery, fresh gas and stabil treatment and I got it fired up.
    Rev'd the crap out of it all the way home and "blew" the dust off it.



    That was before....
    This was after....


    I have done a complete tune up....plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, thermostat, PCV valve, drive belt and fuel filter.
    Truck runs pretty good but the carb is waaaaay to rich. It diesels for a good 3 minutes after you turn it off.

    I just ordered a Weber 32/36 for it and I have a set of Z71 alloys that need tires. I also have the ali express indicator switch that still needs to be installed.

    Other immediate plans are cut front springs 3/4 to 1 coil and 3" blocks in rear, new CD player and 6.5" speakers installed in the lower B pillar area behind seat and order the electric fuel pump.

    Ill need to get some more pictures up as things progress.

  2. #2

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    Looks good unc25. Surprising what a difference a good clean can make on a vehicle. Fuel issue should be an easy fix

  3. #3

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    Got the weber in and picked a carter p4070 pump.
    Planned on installing this weekend but no dice....
    I did however manage to remove the EGR tube from the manifold for the provided plug in the weber kit. Penetrating oil and a breaker bar are your friend for sure.

    Need to pick up a timing belt set and get this truck on the road.

    I'll post install pics of the weber and where I mount the carter pump.

  4. #4

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    Got that factory piece of crap off and gonna start on the weber and carter pump tomorrow.

  5. #5

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  6. #6

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    Oh crap - is that centre bridge holding the air filter bolt in place completely broken? That poor carb is a mess...

  7. #7

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    geezer101, yeah this thing was hurting!

    Disregard the picture of my wagon ...apparently there was a photobucket glitch/mix up.

    Ill have more pictures up today.

  8. #8

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    Someone put in a serious effort to bust that bolt mount out of the Mikuni. And it had an electric choke? I have never seen one on an Aust sold Mitsubishi engine. Once you've got the Weber in, the party will be on. What are you using for a filter? I know the open rectangular air element filters are excellent for CFM but engine bay temps kill HP big time.

  9. #9

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    Got the EGR and Fuel Pump block off plates cut and mounted. Disregard the excess gasket on the face of the plates.



    EGR




    Fuel Pump



    I started looking for where to mount the fuel pump and I took a couple pictures of the gas lines and frame and access panel for documentation.

    One thing I cant figure out is how in the world would you change the factory fuel filter.....There is no room up there unless you drop the tank down.

    I think Im gonna mount it on the outside of the rail and see what happens.


    Drivers side rear looking forward..(cover plate)


    Close up of panel.


    Panel removed gas lines revealed...look at frame rail.

  10. #10

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    Ok some progress on the fuel pump and the fuel lines. Got it mounted best I could... this thing is no joke, very little room. Not exactly where I wanted it, but all things considered its the best I could do and to be honest Im tired of fooling with this thing. Ill be "building" a guard for the bottom of the pump, seeing as how its a tad lower than Id like it to be.





    Grabbed a Ford Inertia switch from the junkyard and mounted it on the drivers side kick panel area under the hood release.



    Now I need to figure out how to wire this thing up....I think I got an idea on how it works, but Im still a little confused.

    Got the relay mounted up and semi wired......



    Also snagged a 1st gen eclipse steering wheel from the yard for $10!!!!

    Ill get some pictures up tomorrow after I trim the steering wheel surround.

  11. #11

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    Fuel pump install looks solid. As long as it's adequately shielded from flying debris and water this is not a bad spot to have it mounted. And being able to get to the fuel filter without too much assing around is a bonus. p.s. try to secure the fuel filter so it isn't only being held up by the fuel hoses. Some kind of factory filter bracket will do the job. It's not a good idea to have the filter bouncing around in the breeze...hoses can come in contact with body panels and rails and wear through them, a hose could split off the end of fuel barbs - all recipes for disaster. Play it safe

  12. #12

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    Weber mounted and everything "wired" up. I used a combo of some diagrams that I found here and the interwebs.

    I followed this one kinda....

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...el+pump+wiring

    And some of this one, especially the hot rod link...
    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...el+pump+wiring

    And some of this from the board...

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...el+pump+wiring

    I wired the relay up like normal and I put the "86" wire to the "C" on the Inertia switch then the "NC" line got tapped into the horn fuse like the first link I posted.

    Does this sound correct?

    I ended up getting a 1/4 NPT to 3/8 nipple 90 degree piece for the output of the fuel pump....this helped tremendously with my space issues and hose routing.

    Snapped a pic of the new wheel and the new combo switch that I finally installed.


  13. #13

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    I mentioned this in another thread, but DO NOT TAP THE HORN FUSE if you dont want the pump to run while in the "acc" position. It is switched but gains power on the first click of the key, not what I wanted for my setup.

    I've got a wicked howl from the carb that I have to sort out...it's a sweet upgrade for sure

  14. #14

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    Installed kyb gas a just shocks and 3" lowering blocks in the rear yesterday

    I've got bell tech nitro 2's for the front , just got to get around to doing it.

    Still need to get tires for the z71 wheels then I'll be good to go!

  15. #15

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  16. #16

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    Cut rear bump stops and finally put a set of used 215/55/16's on the Z71 wheels. Ground down the tabs in the front and the axle ends in the rear.

    Still need to get the front lowered, but Im waiting on new upper and lower ball joints to come in. Figured I should go ahead and replace them while I had it apart and then get the alignment.



    Rides sooooo much better with the new tires and the shocks in the rear are great too.

  17. #17

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    So I've been doing more with the truck over the last couple months...

    Installed street edge 2.5" lowering springs and the nitro shocks as well as lower ball joints.




    Installed hella super tone horns behind the front grille.




    And scooped up a brand new pacesetter header on craigslist for stupid cheap.





    I started installing the header last week and didn't pay any attention to the flange difference. I've got a local shop that is going to fab a downpipe and complete the rest of the exhaust for me.





  18. #18

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    Nice work. Your truck doesn't look really low so the 2.5" drop isn't overkill. The headers I will be using didn't come with the O2 sensor bung in it so I'll be getting a shop to weld one in for me (and fix the hanger locations - some idiot botched the hangers on the system I salvaged from my donor wreck...) What will you be using for a meter to monitor your exhaust gases?

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Nice work. Your truck doesn't look really low so the 2.5" drop isn't overkill. The headers I will be using didn't come with the O2 sensor bung in it so I'll be getting a shop to weld one in for me (and fix the hanger locations - some idiot botched the hangers on the system I salvaged from my donor wreck...) What will you be using for a meter to monitor your exhaust gases?
    I don't have anything planned at the moment, but I would like to get something to monitor it in the future.

    I had a question about the o2 sensor and what it's purpose was with the Weber setup and no computer.

    As far as the height of the truck, I actually wish it were a tad lower, but it's at a decent height for now.

  20. #20

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    I used an EGO meter on a previous project and it let me dial in my air/fuel mixture without the guesswork as it shows the O2 in the exhaust in real time (I built the meter from a kit and it was one of the few electronics projects I did that actually worked - I even swapped the cheap LEDs for super bright LEDs) . The meter and a vac gauge will let you know exactly what is going on from intake to exhaust.

  21. #21

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    Decided to wrap the header and added a throttle return spring since the throttle was a little sticky sometimes.







    I still need to replace valve cover gasket and oil pan gasket as well as clean things up some more

  22. #22

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    Good stuff. Tip for cleaning - oven cleaner (specifically non-caustic). It makes short work of most oil and gunk on engines and the engine bay. Way cleaner to work with too. Spray it on, break the grime up with a paint brush and hose it off (if you have a pressure cleaner, even better). Just an observation - if you flip the 'boomerang' mounting bracket over, will it allow your throttle cable to line up a bit better with the linkage? If you can take some stress of the cable alignment it will help with return and smoother operation (might be enough to sort out the sticky throttle you've experienced)

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