1990 Max 4X4 Build

[pennyman1]

that is the reset switch for the check engine light. Another way to separate the bezel from the cluster is to use the method for fixing composite headlights. Heat an oven to 200 degrees, turn off the heat and let the cluster sit in the oven - it will soften the glue so you can separate it. This will avoid water damage to the cluster. See this video: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...D9E&FORM=VIRE1

[geezer101]

that is the reset switch for the check engine light. Another way to separate the bezel from the cluster is to use the method for fixing composite headlights. Heat an oven to 200 degrees, turn off the heat and let the cluster sit in the oven - it will soften the glue so you can separate it. This will avoid water damage to the cluster. See this video: http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...D9E&FORM=VIRE1

Good for a headlight (?) not for an instrument bezel. The glue used on headlights are a urethane based adhesive. Heating the instrument bezel in an oven will cause the plastic to shrink - then game over. Taking a look at this instrument panel I can see why water immersion isn't a good idea as the main instruments have their dial needles forward of the bezel (I didn't really look at it before) I've stripped plenty of instrument panels and restored them. Depending on how mental the guy on the assembly line went with the glue it can be anywhere between 'pop, off it comes' to 'craaaaack - you sunuvabiatch...' Admittedly I haven't pulled down a 2nd gen instrument cluster and you may very well be lucky they haven't glued them together.