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Thread: My '86 Dodge Ram 50

  1. #1

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    My '86 Dodge Ram 50

    Hey guys I figured I'd post up a build thread for my new project truck. How this truck came around was strange and I believe destined. I work as a claims officer for an insurance company and this truck came in to make a claim as it was hit by someone we insured. Funny thing is I saw this vehicle two days before at the accident scene and said to myself now that's a nice project truck. Long story short I bought it from the guy and am absolutely in love. I was born in 1986...the truck is a 1986 model year...when it was hit it had 86k miles on it. Onto the pics.

    How I got it...






    First thing I did was pull off the rear bumper as I don't want one and well this one was damaged. I began working on the interior...pulled off the damaged dash pad, put in a new Pyle retro style radio, made new door & kick panels, redid the bench seat and got rid of the headrests, replaced most of the ignition system, plastidip the wheels and some other odds an ends.























    I then pulled off the bed and pulled out the fender dent a bit so that I can drive the truck around instead of having it just sit waiting for money or parts.











    Next on the plan of things is to begin the bodyworks. I need to get some stuff from Mike for that and I need to finalize the interior...mainly putting on the door panels, but I'm trying to minimize the amount of water that gets inside the cab throught the doors. Any ideas suggestion or advice is greatly welcomed guys.

  2. #2

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    What's the deal with the door panels? If you are after a temp fix you could try this. I've found this adhesive film that contractors use to protect hard floors in traffic areas. It has a reasonably good hold and peels off easily enough without leaving residue. I've had a window out of my truck for a few months now and used it to prevent the weather from getting into it and it has held up against direct sunlight and rain.

  3. #3

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    Water is getting into my doors through the gaps between the door and the moulding that spans from the front to the back of the door. Then it trickles into the door she'll and into the cab. For the inner part I'm doing new moisture sheilds and lining the back of the new door panels with the same plastic material. However I need to do something about that moulding. Idk if that's how it's been from factory or the what but there's a good size gap between that and the front and rear of where the moulding goes.

  4. #4

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    I'm trying to figure out how the water is getting past the door seal and trim weatherstripping. You got a pic of the location?

  5. #5

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    I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by dna59 View Post
    Water is getting into my doors through the gaps between the door and the moulding that spans from the front to the back of the door. Then it trickles into the door she'll and into the cab.
    I see your logic dna59. I can attest that those failed moldings will ruin doors. Not so sure on the cab though. Here's a picture of my window and then the results of gallons of water going through the door.
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  7. #7



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    if it is the window fuzzies you are missing, try Mike Warme on here, or get them from an 87 up Mazda pickup. If its the perimeter door gasket, steele rubber products reproduces them, or Mike may still have factory ones in stock
    Pennyman1
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  8. #8

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    O.k. outer window seal is toast. Should be able to buy this stuff per foot/metre. Yeah, mine are as hard as a rock too and need replacing. I'm lucky enough to have a a few small suppliers around that should be able to help me out when I'm ready. btw Uncle Spence - that is one nasty door

  9. #9

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    I know Mike has NOS window scrapers because he was just advertising them on Bookface.
    I can help get your truck to pass California smog! PM me.
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  10. #10


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    For the outer door window seal just go to the wreckers and get a good set off a Mazda B2200. They need to be trimmed on the end about 1/16" and the clips need to be slid into the right position but it's a direct fit. Both Brad and I have done it. To remove them from the Mazda you lift the lip against the door and using a small flat head screwdriver push the small locking tab towards the glass and lift up starting from either the front or rear of the seal.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-window-sweeps
    Last edited by Fordubishi; 10-20-2015 at 06:42 PM.

  11. #11

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    Hey guys thanks for the suggestions. Im sure I can find some off a Mazda. I've seen a couple around for parts. It's been raining her a lot lately so haven't been able to do much. Plus working in insurance claims and having tons of flood claims due to those rains doesn't leave much time for anything. I should have some parts arriving from Mike tomorrow so I should have a lil update.

  12. #12



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    Those b2200 are great because they need to be trimmed to fit, this makes them a better fit to keep water out of door on the ends. You may also look at the b2600 also, they are pretty darn close too.

    Camoit had a lead on some rubber seals and windshields etc. Not sure if it is still available.

    Hey Dna59, just a little suggestion on posting pics. This is just so your pictures stay on site here and never leave an empty slot. Photobucket is cool and all, but if you move, rename, or change anything about them in photobucket, the pictures will vanish from the forum and create a dead link. Being we like pictures so much, it's AOK to load them to Mightyram50 and display them from our servers so they always will display.

  13. #13

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    Got my parts from Mike. Door handle, door knobs, lights and dome light cover.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Random pics of the H/U I put in, the speakers and kick panel. Now that I got the tail lights I can start doing some work on the bed until I can afford to get the other panels from Mike. Also think I'll put in some bigger door speakers.
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    ...and a shot of the dirty engine w/ new ignition parts and battery...she runs like a champ.
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  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fordubishi View Post
    For the outer door window seal just go to the wreckers and get a good set off a Mazda B2200. They need to be trimmed on the end about 1/16" and the clips need to be slid into the right position but it's a direct fit. Both Brad and I have done it. To remove them from the Mazda you lift the lip against the door and using a small flat head screwdriver push the small locking tab towards the glass and lift up starting from either the front or rear of the seal.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-window-sweeps
    I had a nice little field trip to one of the bigger wrecking yards and decided to pull an outer window seal from the Ford equivalent of a B series Mazda - Fordubishi, you get a gold star! Due to my Mitsubishi being the 1985 L200 with the quarter windows the weather strip is considerably longer, but this is a bonus due to the seal around the quarter window shrinking from age. The Ford seal is 300 mm shorter than the full length of the door top edge but I can live with that. Added bonus - the plastic retaining clips are a direct swap for the rust magnets that held the original seal in place (half of which were missing anyway and I doubt I'd have any luck trying to get more of the same) Have to go back and buy another one as this was only for a try out but it's one less thing on my list to get around...

  15. #15

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    ^edit. The Ford seal is 30mm shorter(ish), not 300. The seal I pulled from the wrecked truck was pretty hard from age but has a reinforcing strip through it so it will maintain its shape (the original seal almost curled up into a ball and died). I'll need to trim a little off it in places so it will clear the bailey channel and allow the quarter window to open without fouling it. Might get onto it and take a pic or 2.

  16. #16

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    I'm going on a hunt tomorrow for my ones. Gotta drive about an hour to go check some junk yards.

  17. #17

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    Pulled out my 1" lowering blocks I had on my Colorado before I went to solid 2" billet blocks. I had to make the holes for the centering pin larger and I cut down the u bolts while I was at it. Got one side done and will finish up tomorrow and post some pics.
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  18. #18

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