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Thread: 1994 mighty max grinds going into reverse

  1. #1

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    1994 mighty max grinds going into reverse

    I picked up about a week ago a 94 mighty max for $800 bucks. It ran fine and shifty really good. Today when I started it this morning, it would grind really bad going into reverse. No other gear will grind but lately it's been getting a little harder to go into 1st but no grinding. Once in reverse it will run good and won't pop out of reverse. I've tried to hold the clutch for a couple of minutes before going into reverse, tried to go to other gears before into reverse and double clutching but it grinds every time. Sometimes it will go in fine. But 95% of the time it will grind bad. It feels like the synchronizer doesn't slow down the gears. So my question is what can I do to fix this problem? I have put close to 1000 miles since I bought it and never gave me problems shifting and now it's taking a huge dump on me with this reverse grinding.

  2. #2

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    There is a plastic grommet that your shift lever fits into that can break apart and cause some of the symptoms you are describing. Remove the shifter boots and the triangular metal plate that holds the shifter and lift the lever out. Be careful not to drop anything into the opening. You will see the white plastic grommet, it looks like a shotgun wad, if you are familiar with that. They are still available from Mitsubishi and are only a few bucks. Hope this helps!
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  3. #3



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    Its a cable clutch if I am not mistaken, right? You may try to adjust the clutch by going to the firewall on the drivers side. Right next to the brake booster is a cable coming out of the firewall and it has a sort of daisy looking large bolt on it. This is where you adjust the clutch. Grab the cable housing and pull the cable away from the firewall. When you pull the cable, there should be about 1/16 to 1/8in of an air gap between the daisy adjusting nut and the rubber spacer on the firewall mounting cable.

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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by lush90 View Post
    There is a plastic grommet that your shift lever fits into that can break apart and cause some of the symptoms you are describing. Remove the shifter boots and the triangular metal plate that holds the shifter and lift the lever out. Be careful not to drop anything into the opening. You will see the white plastic grommet, it looks like a shotgun wad, if you are familiar with that. They are still available from Mitsubishi and are only a few bucks. Hope this helps!
    So that can be the problem? I have tried checking the clutch. Took it to a transmission shop and they said it was the synchronizer. If it's that simple to fix that I would be so happy. It was shifting fine the day before. I haven't done any crazy driving so it puzzles me.
    Also I will adjust he clutch cable too.

    Thanks ms for the quick replies. I will mess with these 2 fixes tomorrow and will keep you guys posted.

  5. #5

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    Anything else I should consider as a problem?

  6. #6

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    a little advice if you have to drive this vehicle around well trying to fix the problem is to put it in reverse before you start it up. this way it wont grind. also try a less viscus oil in the tyranny.

  7. #7



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    The synchronizing hub has nothing to do with reverse. Did you remove the shiftier yet?
    I would adjust the clutch.
    How far off the floor does it start to engage?
    It should start to grab about 1.5 to 2 inch off the floor. If it's more then that adjust it. Adjusting is easy on the cable. Just pop open the hood. Grab the cable with your left hand pull it away from the firewall and turn the adjuster tell it touches the wall. Then turn it back 1/2 turn.

    One common problem is the pilot bearing or bushing being warn. That will keep the clutch turning when you push in the pedal.
    The reverse will grind if the clutch disc is spinning. Froward gears have the syncro or blocking rings that will add friction to the next gear you are moving into. This slows down the gears enough to make a smooth transition.
    I would drop in a anew clutch, pilot bearing and pressure plate if you keep having the problem and everything else is OK. But the syncro is a full rebuild and taking apart the trans and gears.
    Last edited by camoit; 09-12-2015 at 08:07 PM.
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  8. #8



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    there should be about 3/4" play in the clutch pedal before you feel resistance depressing it. x2 on gear lube also - use royal purple 80w-90 or redline MT90.
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    The synchronizing hub has nothing to do with reverse. Did you remove the shiftier yet?
    I would adjust the clutch.
    How far off the floor does it start to engage?
    It should start to grab about 1.5 to 2 inch off the floor. If it's more then that adjust it. Adjusting is easy on the cable. Just pop open the hood. Grab the cable with your left hand pull it away from the firewall and turn the adjuster tell it touches the wall. Then turn it back 1/2 turn.

    One common problem is the pilot bearing or bushing being warn. That will keep the clutch turning when you push in the pedal.
    The reverse will grind if the clutch disc is spinning. Froward gears have the syncro or blocking rings that will add friction to the next gear you are moving into. This slows down the gears enough to make a smooth transition.
    I would drop in a anew clutch, pilot bearing and pressure plate if you keep having the problem and everything else is OK. But the syncro is a full rebuild and taking apart the trans and gears.
    i haven't removed the shifter or adjust the clutch yet. I'm planning on doing it on Monday. The clutch seems to be fine. I mean sometimes I have the press it all the way down before I have no resistance going into 1st gear. Even with some resistance going into 1st gear, it doesn't grind at all. I have also noticed that when I start the truck in first gear I can shift to reverse without a problem, it will only grind if I had drove it for a while.

  10. #10



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    Sounds like your cable needs adjusted. It takes 5 minutes, if that, to do. If not then most likely just need a new clutch disc, sounds like it could be a little worn.
    Josh
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  11. #11



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    Quote Originally Posted by Conra View Post
    i haven't removed the shifter or adjust the clutch yet. I'm planning on doing it on Monday. The clutch seems to be fine. I mean sometimes I have the press it all the way down before I have no resistance going into 1st gear. Even with some resistance going into 1st gear, it doesn't grind at all. I have also noticed that when I start the truck in first gear I can shift to reverse without a problem, it will only grind if I had drove it for a while.
    With this info it tells me the cable needs to be adjusted.
    The reason it doesn't grind when starting in gear and holding the clutch is because the disc is held in place by the rear end through the transmission gear set. So when you go from the gear it's in to reverse doesn't give the disc enough time to build up inertia.
    Now when you try to go into reverse after driving or starting the truck with the clutch engaged. The slight amount of friction between the pressure plate and flywheel is enough to make the disc start to rotate.
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  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by camoit View Post
    With this info it tells me the cable needs to be adjusted.
    The reason it doesn't grind when starting in gear and holding the clutch is because the disc is held in place by the rear end through the transmission gear set. So when you go from the gear it's in to reverse doesn't give the disc enough time to build up inertia.
    Now when you try to go into reverse after driving or starting the truck with the clutch engaged. The slight amount of friction between the pressure plate and flywheel is enough to make the disc start to rotate.
    Sweet, I thought it was going to be something major that I had to fix. So far I'm loving the truck. Cheap on gas, and it's very reliable for a 22 year old truck.

  13. #13

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    Holy crap I adjusted the clutch cable and so far it hasn't grind when I go into reverse. There was about 1/4 of an inch of slack between the nut and the rubber piece. I'm still going to take the shifter out and inspect the white plastic part.
    You guys are awesome and if I knew y'all I would buy y'all a beer.

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