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Thread: new to this site and need help its probably and easy fix!

  1. #1

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    Exclamation new to this site and need help its probably and easy fix!

    i have a 1990 Mighty max 2.4L and just recently its been having a starting problem it turns over and eventually starts up but its takes 30sec up to a 1min to start, sometimes i pump the gas a little seems to help sometimes . sometimes itll start up fine and ill drive down to the store and itll do it again its now constant and annoying. Now ive changed the fuel pump, fuel Filter, Starter, ignition switch and I cant put my finger on it. ima check the injectors next maybe fuel rail. but before I waste more money on parts it doesnt need I was hoping to get some help here. any help?

  2. #2

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    Read the plugs?
    I can help get your truck to pass California smog! PM me.
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  3. #3

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    @noahwins the spark plugs always changed on oil changes? Oh yea also changed ignition coil

  4. #4

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    But read the plug color to see if it's running at stoich. To rule out fouled plugs.

    http://ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppor...qs/faqread.asp

    Also, is the Check Engine light on? The computer runs a rudimentary self-test and will store codes if there's a problem.
    I can help get your truck to pass California smog! PM me.
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  5. #5

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    My 90 was doing the same thing for a while, it would take longer and longer to start. It was the computer. Mine also was getting hot near the end, hot enough that it was noticeable to passenger in the car.

  6. #6

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    @noahwins They're fine normal condition looking. Yea iturned off after I changed the starter but it came back on and started to lag on the start. Do you know how to read the codes?

    @bobsnewdirection
    How did you diagnose it?

  7. #7

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    You can open up the Ecu, see if it smells or if it's got burnt capacitors. Mine was hard to diagnose, not only had my Ecu gone bad, my fuel pump was on its way out and I had wires shorting out. My friend took care of it after I was pulling my hair out.

  8. #8

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    Bob is right -- I should've remembered, always, always rule out the notoriously flakey ECU on any early FI truck first.
    I can help get your truck to pass California smog! PM me.
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  9. #9

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    Okay I'll check the ECU its under by passenger if I'm correct right? Also after it started lagging my stereo started to turn of a little later then its suppose to. Like once I turned off the truck the stereo would keep playing for about 1min or so you think that has to do something with it?

  10. #10

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    Bob Did you get you're ECU rebuilt or did you buy a new one?

  11. #11



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    Quote Originally Posted by mightymax909 View Post
    @noahwins the spark plugs always changed on oil changes? Oh yea also changed ignition coil

    Plugs can go for 25k miles if the engine isn't burning oil too much. Cleaning plugs is just fine, gapping and re-installing. Careful not to chase engine problems with money. It never seems to fix the problem and when problem is located most people fell like kicking themselves for the simplicity of the issue found.


    Bob's friends right legs are all burned from riding with him and they thought it was just a rash all that time, Jk

  12. #12

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    Yea I know that but I just went with the most common ignition problems. And its the reason why I'm here don't wanna be wasting more money and then end up being a simple fix lol.
    Haha

  13. #13

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    ECU doesn't smell burnt and don't seem like its the ECU. Its smells alt more like gas once it fires up

  14. #14

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    I bought a rebuilt Ecu. I'll try to find the info, came from somewhere in Florida. If I remember right it was $300

  15. #15

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    Foreign auto computer (800) 241-6689

  16. #16

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    Did your truck also cut off when trying to get warm in the AM? Today it did that I turned it on to go to work left it so it can warm up and it chocked and turned off?

  17. #17

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    Thanks

  18. #18

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    The heat issue in your truck has to do with the "bad capacitor plague" of the 1990s (Google it, it's an interesting story if you're into industrial espionage). The capacitors expand and leak, causing all kinds of random driveability issues. The second issue is ROHS switching standards to lead-free solder in the 1990s. The materials hadn't quite caught up with manufacturing. There are microcracks invisible to the naked eye in the solder that contract when they're cold and expand when they heat up with voltage applied. At least that's the way it was explained to me by a neighborhood TV-radio repairman greybeard who rebuilt my 1992's ECU.

    The bad capacitors issue can lead to any number of weird symptoms. Even straight up dangerous safety issues. My first truck was a 1992 that would suddenly cut out -- die, completely -- on the freeway. Get it fixed! I got a reman from A1 Cardone on RockAuto for $261 plus $125 core for my 1990. It's expensive, but the plus side is when you get the reman unit installed (2 bolts, 3 screws, 10 minutes), the truck's issues will vanish instantly and it will feel like it runs like new. Power, responsiveness, smoothness, MPG all shoot up. A real satisfying fix that will make you grin when you take it for a spin for the first time with a healthy computer.
    Last edited by noahwins; 04-09-2015 at 10:38 AM.
    I can help get your truck to pass California smog! PM me.
    California BAR Smog Inspector License #EO635469
    "Keep 'em on the road."

    See what I have for sale:
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  19. #19

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    Mine did cut off a couple time, eventually it wouldn't start at all just crank. But mine had a fuel pump going out at the same time so it might have been ecu or pump that made mine stall

  20. #20

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    Cool thanks once I get home from work I'm going to try and pull out the ecu and opening it to check it out. Thanks.

  21. #21

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    You can also check the trouble codes from the computer, using the connector at the fuse box. You'll need an analog voltmeter. Check the service manual for instructions.

    My 2-cents is to check the throttle position sensor...I'm real big on advising that, ever since I replaced mine.

    Check around the old threads on the forum: there is an address for a place that rebuilds ECU's for half the cost of a new (rebuilt) one.
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