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Thread: Can a head accept camshaft holder (rocker arm assembly) from a different head?

  1. #1

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    Can a head accept camshaft holder (rocker arm assembly) from a different head?

    Can a had accept a rocker arm assembly from another engine (of course same model)... Will the camshaft still spin ok?
    I recently had to do this on my Honda civic... It turned out to be fine (at lease for now).. just a little bit noise if listen carefully, but that could be valve lash adjustment. Civic does not hydraulic lifters....Or maybe it just needs some break-in.

    I am wondering if you can do that on a 6g64... People may argue that the holes for camshaft was drilled with caps on and each cap belong to its own location in its own head....... It maybe true for Porsche or something.... I think Honda and Mitsubishi have already made this part interchangeable... am I right???

  2. #2

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    I have similar question. I was talking to the shop owner of the garage next door about the ticking valves on my 1990 and he said it's probably not the HLAs or the ball valve on the rockers getting clogged, but everyone thinks that's what it is, understandably. So people spend fortunes replacing HLAs and rockers and trying all kinds of magic potions and oil weights that work for a little while but aren't a permanent fix. He said in his experience the source of ticking noise that comes and goes is worn rocker shafts themselves. He said it's a a very similar but distinct noise from valves ticking so people get confused but a trained ear can hear it.

    Which is a longwinded way to ask if it's possible to swap over the rocker arm shafts, rockers and HLAs from my old noise-free G63B and plug them into the 4G64. They look like they would fit but IDK.
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  3. #3


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    I changed out the Hydraulic Rockers in my 4G64 SOHC for Solid Rockers from a 4G61 1.8L want the P/N's?

    There are many interchangeable parts in the 4G6X line.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    The guy at the Mitsu parts counter I used to frequent turned me on to this little nugget.

  4. #4

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    How often do you have to adjust lash with solid rockers? Yes, P/N please. And the P/N for the rocker shaft springs, too.

    Haven't adjusted valves since my Ninjette. Man, the exhaust valves on Cylinder #2 were a bitch.
    Last edited by noahwins; 03-31-2015 at 02:59 PM.
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  6. #6



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    It also can depend on your oil changing and driving habits and care you take of your engine. Adjusting them correctly is most important, I will do mine on every oil change and it's probably a little anal about it.
    The manual gives you the simple way in 2 steps. Adjust first set, then rotate 180 degrees and then adjust the next set.
    To do them correctly, you need to place the cam in the correct position and adjust them more individually. Only adjusting them when in the center of the base circle of the cam and not adjusting while a rocker might be on the ramp of the cam or worse.
    If adjusted while on the ramp, the rocker will be too loose, then the valves will not be as precise when opening and closing. Mine can make some noise, but it is normal noise typical of the non HDL.

  7. #7


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    Intake A MD023225 qty 2
    Intake B MD040780 qty 2
    Exhaust C MD023226 qty 2
    Exhaust D MD040781 qty 2

    Adjuster screw MD065628 qty 8
    Locking Nut MD000961 qty 8

    cost me $184.27 from the dealer back on May 5, 2005

  8. #8

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    Awesome, thanks guys. Sorry to hijack your thread Yuta!

    What kind of oil are you using Brad? Thinking of switching to Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella turbo diesel oil if I do manual lifters.

    I kinda sorta miss the adjustability of solid rockers, getting to find the sweet spot between power and smoothness. It was sweet jumping on the bike after doing valves (which the Ninjette manual seemed to call for every other week -- you got good at it) and having the engine feel so solid and peppy. Like a brand new engine.
    Last edited by noahwins; 04-01-2015 at 10:31 AM.
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  9. #9


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    Yeah, you can play the cam timing advance and retard by tightening and loosening the valve lash...You might look into the pick a part/junkyard for the 1.8L engine, might get the whole shootin'in match for less than the dealer...parts have to come from the Atlanta Warehouse, where old Mitsu parts go to die...

  10. #10

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    They're a little harder to find than 10 years ago -- a hair less than $250 shipped from oemmitsubishiparts.com. I want new parts if I do this, no junkyard stuff. Is there a better website to buy OEM parts through?

    Mike, did you ever look at using the van intake manifold onto the truck head? The surge tank looks much smaller and log-like than the truck. I wonder how that would effect the powerband. This fiche looks like there's no EGR, but all of the emissions references say all USDM vans came with an EGR.

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  11. #11


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    I never went that route. The original got chopped up to remove the long runners (low end torque) since I was going for High revving Horsepower.

    happened to work really well for the Turbo...







    took a bit of work to re-route the throttle body cable and input.

  12. #12

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    The runners on the van look like they might be a bit longer than the truck. But I wonder what the smaller displacement of the surge tank would do. Or if it's an inferior design. Fluid dynamics isn't my strongest suit. These manifolds are only a few bucks on car-part.com. Worth an experiment, right?
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  13. #13



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    I use Castrol since it keeps the internal engine parts clean instead of carboned up.


    Quote Originally Posted by noahwins View Post
    Awesome, thanks guys. Sorry to hijack your thread Yuta!

    What kind of oil are you using Brad? Thinking of switching to Chevron Delo or Shell Rotella turbo diesel oil if I do manual lifters.

    I kinda sorta miss the adjustability of solid rockers, getting to find the sweet spot between power and smoothness. It was sweet jumping on the bike after doing valves (which the Ninjette manual seemed to call for every other week -- you got good at it) and having the engine feel so solid and peppy. Like a brand new engine.

  14. #14

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    Would roller rockers or solid lifters be preferable for a turbo application?
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  15. #15



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    the starquest guys are mixed on that issue - it depends on your taste. I have seen 2.6s with 3.0 roller rockers which are hydraulic, 2.6 mechanicals with the jet valve tab shaved off, and many different cams for both. Its all in what you like really,the limitations are with the design of the heads themselves, not the valve train.
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  16. #16

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    the starquest guys are on the fence about the roller rockers because they are a different rocker ratio and from a different motor. also they have tried roller rockers on slipper cams with not so good results. there are a set that comes on the late 80's early 90's galants and expo's that are either from a SOHC G63B or the 4G64 in the van. the roller cam and rockers gave the motor about a 15-18hp boost to haul around the 4 door galant and bigger van. a good performance up-grade if you can fine them and have a SOHC

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